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ModelMaster Acrylics thinning

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  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Netherlands
ModelMaster Acrylics thinning
Posted by kermit on Saturday, October 29, 2011 4:18 AM

Hey guys,

For some german armor projects i have been using my usual brand of choice in the past: revell (germany) Aqua paints. Their version of the dunkelgelb base color wasn't entirely to my liking so i just purchased a bottle of ModelMaster dunky...

I take it, since it is acrylic paint, that i can use the usual water and alcohol mix to thin it? What is your mixing ratio: 2 parts paint to one part thinner?

Richard

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm." - Sir Winston Churchill

  • Member since
    September 2010
  • From: DFW, Texas
Posted by NervousEnergy on Saturday, October 29, 2011 9:09 AM

I have a dozen or so MM acryls, but I'm moving more toward solvent paint these days due to issues with thinning them (MM & Vallejo) down low enough to paint fine detail.  One of the problems with MM is different paints can have radically different viscosities, and even the exact same color can differ from bottle to bottle in thickness, so there's no standard thinning ratio.  2-1 may be a good starting place, though, depending on needle size.  The darker paints I've noticed tend to need more than 2-1, and some of the lighter paints are almost thin enough to spray without thinning, especially with a .5 needle and larger.

They dry lightning fast, especially if you use alcohol, so to avoid sandpaper surface and lots of tip dry I'd add a retarder.  I've only tried thinning them with the MM brand acryl thinner and Golden airbrush medium for acrylics.  Best success has been with the medium plus some extra retarder, but it can be difficult to get it thinned just right to spray fine detail without clogging every 15 seconds or getting too runny.  Future reportedly works well (IIRC it's actually very close to the acrylic airbrush mediums, as it's just clear acrylic polymer in gloss), but I've only tried that with Vallejo. 

Mix it well (shaking doesn't work well unless you're very patient or have a powered shaker... the pigment really falls out of the stuff after a while.)

  • Member since
    February 2011
  • From: Monterey Bay,CA-Fort Bragg, NC
Posted by randypandy831 on Saturday, October 29, 2011 7:46 PM

it depends because their acrylics always change consistency from bottle to bottle. some are stupid thin and some are thicker then their enamel. i honestly don't know why it's like that. they are normally thin enough to spray straight from the AB. most but not all it. 

and...

make sure whatever your painting is primed. MM acrylics have no bite without primer. even tamiyas masking tape will rip it apart. 

tamiya 1/48 P-47D $25 + shipping

tamiya 1/48 mosquito $20+ shipping

hobby boss 1/48 F-105G. wings and fuselage cut from sprue. $40+ shipping. 

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Far Northern CA
Posted by mrmike on Sunday, October 30, 2011 10:00 PM

As said, you can't count on a consistent viscosity, and thinning them with plain water and /or iso alcohol doesn't work well. Ms. Owl thins them with Future, and I've found this to be the best way to go for brush or spray, but the ratio will vary according to the thickness de jour. The Future acts as a retarder to improve the leveling and to improve the atomization and increase the drying time when spraying.

Mike

  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: Canada
Posted by RichardI on Monday, October 31, 2011 6:01 AM

I have always found that the issue with acrylics is that they begin to dry too soon - particularly if you use alcohol to thin. I'm an acrylics only modeller, just because of the smell created by enamels. That said, I have used MM Acryl with success by using a retarder. Most art supply stores will carry retarders - just make sure it's for acrylic paint. Mix and thin your paint to suit your desired consistency, using your normal method, then add just a half drop or so directly to the paint cup. I have found that it makes acrylics flow something like enamel and is also very good when brushing. Just be aware that it will take longer to dry.

Rich Cool

On the bench: 1/48 Revell PBY Catalina 0A-10A. Next up: Moebius 1/24 Chariot from Lost in Space.

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Fort Worth, TX
Posted by RESlusher on Monday, October 31, 2011 6:16 AM

I started out years ago using MM enamels, moved to their acrylics was majorly disappointed with them so I switched to Tamiya crylics.  Now with their supply problems I find myself "coming home" to MM enamels again.

Regarding MM acrylics, I just never did like their consistency.  Maybe I just got a couple of bad bottles; but it was enough to turn me off that particular product line.  I'm still a big fan of their enamels though.

I'm sure they're seeing a nice up-tick in business with Tamiya's problems.

Richard S.

On the bench:  AFV Club M730A1 Chaparral

On deck:  Tamiya Marder 1A2

In the hole:  Who knows what's next!

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Monday, October 31, 2011 5:02 PM

RESlusher

Regarding MM acrylics, I just never did like their consistency.  Maybe I just got a couple of bad bottles; but it was enough to turn me off that particular product line.  I'm still a big fan of their enamels though.

I'm sure they're seeing a nice up-tick in business with Tamiya's problems.

Perhaps they have some friends in DC lobbying that are influential with those in charge of the labeling of imported paints...

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

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