ModelMaster Acrylics thinning

RESlusher

Regarding MM acrylics, I just never did like their consistency.  Maybe I just got a couple of bad bottles; but it was enough to turn me off that particular product line.  I'm still a big fan of their enamels though.

I'm sure they're seeing a nice up-tick in business with Tamiya's problems.

Perhaps they have some friends in DC lobbying that are influential with those in charge of the labeling of imported paints...

I started out years ago using MM enamels, moved to their acrylics was majorly disappointed with them so I switched to Tamiya crylics.  Now with their supply problems I find myself "coming home" to MM enamels again.

Regarding MM acrylics, I just never did like their consistency.  Maybe I just got a couple of bad bottles; but it was enough to turn me off that particular product line.  I'm still a big fan of their enamels though.

I'm sure they're seeing a nice up-tick in business with Tamiya's problems.

I have always found that the issue with acrylics is that they begin to dry too soon - particularly if you use alcohol to thin. I'm an acrylics only modeller, just because of the smell created by enamels. That said, I have used MM Acryl with success by using a retarder. Most art supply stores will carry retarders - just make sure it's for acrylic paint. Mix and thin your paint to suit your desired consistency, using your normal method, then add just a half drop or so directly to the paint cup. I have found that it makes acrylics flow something like enamel and is also very good when brushing. Just be aware that it will take longer to dry.

Rich

As said, you can't count on a consistent viscosity, and thinning them with plain water and /or iso alcohol doesn't work well. Ms. Owl thins them with Future, and I've found this to be the best way to go for brush or spray, but the ratio will vary according to the thickness de jour. The Future acts as a retarder to improve the leveling and to improve the atomization and increase the drying time when spraying.

Mike

it depends because their acrylics always change consistency from bottle to bottle. some are stupid thin and some are thicker then their enamel. i honestly don't know why it's like that. they are normally thin enough to spray straight from the AB. most but not all it. 

and...

make sure whatever your painting is primed. MM acrylics have no bite without primer. even tamiyas masking tape will rip it apart. 

I have a dozen or so MM acryls, but I'm moving more toward solvent paint these days due to issues with thinning them (MM & Vallejo) down low enough to paint fine detail.  One of the problems with MM is different paints can have radically different viscosities, and even the exact same color can differ from bottle to bottle in thickness, so there's no standard thinning ratio.  2-1 may be a good starting place, though, depending on needle size.  The darker paints I've noticed tend to need more than 2-1, and some of the lighter paints are almost thin enough to spray without thinning, especially with a .5 needle and larger.

They dry lightning fast, especially if you use alcohol, so to avoid sandpaper surface and lots of tip dry I'd add a retarder.  I've only tried thinning them with the MM brand acryl thinner and Golden airbrush medium for acrylics.  Best success has been with the medium plus some extra retarder, but it can be difficult to get it thinned just right to spray fine detail without clogging every 15 seconds or getting too runny.  Future reportedly works well (IIRC it's actually very close to the acrylic airbrush mediums, as it's just clear acrylic polymer in gloss), but I've only tried that with Vallejo. 

Mix it well (shaking doesn't work well unless you're very patient or have a powered shaker... the pigment really falls out of the stuff after a while.)