MM Enamel + MM gloss laquer + MM flat laquer = bad?

John,

As the other posters say, the key is curing the paint.  Time is your friend, just leave the model alone for 48 hours or more.  I'm paitient, I give my coats anywhere from 3 days to a week before I start handling them.  Handling the model before the paint has cured causes fingerprints and if a new layer that is based on a different solvent is painted on before curing is completed, the underlying coat can cause the later coat to crackle.  Ask me how I know...

Think of clear coats as paint that is just, well, clear.

Tim

usmc1371

According to the Model Master Technical Guide, Model Master Gloss and Dull Coats are safe to use over Model Master Enamels that have cured for at least 24 hours.  You should mist on the coats and build it up to a desired result.

I think the issues that some people have are from spraying too heavy of a coat.  Since lacquer based paints are "hotter" then enamel based paints, spraying too heavy of a coat of a lacquer based paint can eat into the enamel under coat.  Basically, stay with light misting of the Gloss/Dull coat and you'll be fine.

-Jesse

I agree with Jesse.

According to the Model Master Technical Guide, Model Master Gloss and Dull Coats are safe to use over Model Master Enamels that have cured for at least 24 hours.  You should mist on the coats and build it up to a desired result.

I think the issues that some people have are from spraying too heavy of a coat.  Since lacquer based paints are "hotter" then enamel based paints, spraying too heavy of a coat of a lacquer based paint can eat into the enamel under coat.  Basically, stay with light misting of the Gloss/Dull coat and you'll be fine.

-Jesse

PilotSpike

I have read a bunch of things about using a gloss coat, many times being Future, to give decals a good surface for adhesion and then a final coat of flat or clear for protection and a base for washes. What gets confusing is what can or cannot go on top of the other.

So if I am sticking with the MM line of paints, that would have me putting a lacquer based gloss over my MM flat enamels and then a MM lacquer flat over top of the gloss once the decals are down.  Am I going to have a problem with one lacquer coat over another? If so should my flat coat be the MM acrylic clear or the Future clear?

I am sure this gets asked a bunch but I couldn't quite find a clear answer in searching the forums.

 

Thanx!!

John

 

As long as you wait 48 hours you shouldn't have a problem coating enamel or future or lacquer etc.  I paint my models with MM Enamel, then wait at least 48 hours before applying future; and once done with decaling wait another 48 before applying a flat lacquer coat.  Never had any bad reactions thus far.

John, I regularly use laquer thinner with MM paints, and have not had a bad reaction with the paint layers.  I don't know why clear coats like gloss and/or flat would be different, but who knows?  Some folks around here have had problems with Testor's Dullcoat.

Having said that, I have been using Floquil's Model Railroad Flat for a number of years. 

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXG080&P=7

 I spray it on, then apply the decals, then a final light coat to blend everything together.  Floquil's flat has a really slick, almost waxy smoothness to it; better than some gloss coats I tried earlier.  It doesn't give a dead flat finish, more like a mild semi-flat.  I also thin this with laquer thinner sometimes.

I'm not suggesting you try this in place of what you've already got in mind--merely an option for you to consider and file away for future reference or experimentaion, especially if you have problems with the MM clear coats.

Good luck, whatever you do.  Decaling can be a real trial.