I have used regular Laquer thinner with good results. The 90% alcohol from Walgreens also works well.

Bill

Tamiya paints can be thinned with alcohol and lacquer thinner as mentioned. when using lacquer thinner, they spray really thin and translucent, building up color slowly. Just remember that Tamiya's acrylic thinner also contains a retarder so if using rubbing alcohol to replace it consider using an acrylic retarder with it.

I've been using windshield washer fluid for years. As I understand it the fluid is just water with a small amount of alcohol added to keep it from freezing. The blue dye doesn't seem to affect the paint, I haven't tried the pink stuff though.

Heck, 99 cents for a big bottle is way cheaper than anything else.

I'm very intrigued by windshield washer fluid. Am I correct to assume that it does not leave soapy residue when the paint is cured?

Chrisk-k

I'm very intrigued by windshield washer fluid. Am I correct to assume that it does not leave soapy residue when the paint is cured?

...it doesn't leave a soapy residue on my windshield!

"...it doesn't leave a soapy residue on my windshield!"

because windshield wipers wipe it?

I don't think there is any soap/detergent in it. Or at least I've never seen what I use foam even when I shake it.

I think it's just water, alcohol, and dye. You could make the same thing with tap water and drug store/chemist rubbing alcohol but it would cost more than the WWF.

Heck, give it a try, it's not that expensive and if you don't like it pour it into the WWF container in your car or truck...

Chrisk-k

"...it doesn't leave a soapy residue on my windshield!"

because windshield wipers wipe it?

ha - the wipers don't reach the corners though do they?

I learned something new. I always thought the windshield wash fluid was soapy water!

Gamera

I don't think there is any soap/detergent in it. Or at least I've never seen what I use foam even when I shake it.

I think it's just water, alcohol, and dye. You could make the same thing with tap water and drug store/chemist rubbing alcohol but it would cost more than the WWF.

Heck, give it a try, it's not that expensive and if you don't like it pour it into the WWF container in your car or truck...

I always thought it was a solution containing alcohol and ammonia. Like Windex.

Wouldn't surprise me if there was a little ammonia in the mix as well. I'll have to smell the windshield before I hop in the car tonight...

Without this hobby, I would have never ever paid attention to windshield wash fluid  This hobby gives me never-ending fun.

According to Wikipedia, "The most common washer fluid solutions are given labels such as "All-Season", "Bug Remover", or "De-icer", and usually are a combination of solvents with a detergent."

I'll just try it on some lego pieces.

Chrisk-k

My quick Google search reveals that people use mineral spirits, alcohol and even windshield wash fluid as a substitute for the Tamiya thinner. Do they actually work?  I don't mind spending $6 per 250ml bottle, but if those substitutes work as good as the Tamiya thinner, I wouldn't want to spend unnecessarily.

Negative on the mineral spirits for Tamiya acrylics - the two will simply not mix, though it will work with Tamiya enamels, which aren't available in some countries.

As already mentioned, Isopropyl and ethyl (denatured) alcohol will work. Arguably, denatured alcohol works better than Iso in some respects.

for tamyia acrilcs i use water very plentiful and free

I use plain old 70% Isopropyl rubbing alcohol, with a drop or two of liquitex "flow aid" mixed in for good measure. It dries really fast. $2 for a 32 oz. bottle.

HI!

I have found the BEST thinner for Tamiya acrylic is lacquer thinner. I use it all the time and it sprays great! I would use a better quality lacquer thinner if you can.

Yes water and alcohol both work, personally I've just had better luck mixing them together. The WWF is pre-mixed so I just find it over-all less trouble.

And yeah Tamiya does spray really well with lacquer thinner. I tend to use mostly Model Master since it's the most available here. Not sure if it would work the same way or not.

Gamera

Yes water and alcohol both work, personally I've just had better luck mixing them together. The WWF is pre-mixed so I just find it over-all less trouble.

And yeah Tamiya does spray really well with lacquer thinner. I tend to use mostly Model Master since it's the most available here. Not sure if it would work the same way or not.

Lacquer thinner's all I use when spraying Tamiya. Thin with either Tamiya's own lacquer thinner, or Gunze Mr. Leveling Thinner, then clean with Windex.

Thing I love about Tamiya + lacquer thinner is that you can reduce the pants off it and it still sprays beautifully. I'm increasingly subscribing to the "build up thin coats" school, and nothing does it better than Tamiya or Gunze + lacquer thinner. Model Master enamel does a passable job, but in my experience it's tough to pull off with the "true" acrylics like Vallejo or Lifecolor.

modeler#1

for tamyia acrilcs i use water very plentiful and free

Although it does have the advantage of being free and it does work to an extent, water is not great as a thinner for Tamiya acrylics. You have a higher tendency towards beading and running as the water has a higher surface tension and does not "wet" as well as alcohol or lacquer thinner. When airbrushing, the flat paints will tend to dry with a slightly chalky finish and some pigment separation may be evident (this is more prevalent with lighter colours) and this often presents as light hazy patches over the surface. When used with gloss colours, it will often dry with an eggshell finish rather than a nice lustrous gloss.

As much as I enjoy using lacquers they will sometimes make seams and bodywork that you thought were perfect reappear. With Tamiya flats I prefer using denatured alcohol. With gloss and semigloss Tamiya I use either X20 or Iso alcohol. Tamiya lacquer thinner or Gunze Mr Color thinner are pretty mild and work well with Tamiya acrylics but it's still lacquer thinner. You can thin as much with denatured alcohol as you can with lacquer thinner. I don't use retarder or flow aid with Tamiya acrylics anymore. Try polishing the airbrush needle from just behind the needle seal or bearing forward and that, along with very thin paint, will greatly reduce or eliminate tip dry. If you have polishing cloths then use them down to the finest grit and then use a little metal polish on a clean cloth. If you don't have polishing cloths then 1500 and 2000 grit sandpaper will work. Just wet it with a drop of oil or a little water, fold them over, place the needle in the fold and gently squeeze the paper or cloth against it with thumb and forefinger and turn the needle with your other hand. Finish with some metal polish and then clean off the residue. Doesn't take that long. And when painting, occasionally go off target and pull the trigger wide open for a couple seconds. Thin paints, low air pressure and a polished needle will work wonders.

Tony

Wingman_kz

With Tamiya flats I prefer using denatured alcohol. With gloss and semigloss Tamiya I use either X20 or Iso alcohol. Tamiya lacquer thinner or Gunze Mr Color thinner are pretty mild and work well with Tamiya acrylics but it's still lacquer thinner. You can thin as much with denatured alcohol as you can with lacquer thinner. I don't use retarder or flow aid with Tamiya acrylics anymore.

Same here - my preference is for denatured alcohol, though I do use Tamiya lacquer thinner from time to time. The big secret is to thin way more than common wisdom dictates and use multiple thin coats. When you go up to the 75-80% thinner range using DA, you don't really need to use a retarder (even here in Australia where it's frequently hot and dry). You cannot thin this high with water, Iso or X-20A as the paint will bead and run. It does come down to technique though, and Tamiya acrylic seems to work best when you super-thin the paint and use low pressure at a close distance.

The only real difference that I have found with Tamiya lacquer thinner is that it extends the drying time more and gives the paint more time to level. This is often helpful with gloss finishes. Personally, I consider the lacquer thinner to be an option, another tool to be used when appropriate, not a universal cure-all.

mineral spirits is a enamel thinner so scratch that out.

 denatured alcohol works better then iso.