to prime or not to prime

welcome!

thanks for tip randypandy831

a good prime is a must if your using MM acrylics. they have horrible bite and low tack tape rips it up all day. tamiya is a lot stronger and does good without a prime.

only primers i use are tamiya and mr.surfacer. sometimes MM enamel primer out of the bottle.

Thanks Tony and Don.Don i've used rustolium primer on all my railroad steel mill buildings

and i really like it to.

Leon

Nathan T

 But it helps to have a good primer. Mr. Surfacer and Tamiya both make excellent laquer primers/fillers in rattle can and bottle for airbrushing.

I use Krylon primer.  The old Usenet newsgroup rec.models.scale convinced me to try it probably ten years ago.  It works with every finish I have tried- enamels, lacquers, and acrylics.  It is relatively cheap too, compared to many primers from hobby shop. Only downside is it is a pretty heavy, thick primer that can obscure fine detail on small scale models.  But that thickness makes it effective for filling seams and sanding scratches.  I find it at Michaels, Wal-mart, and many building supply/hardware stores.

The only thing I don't prime are clear parts.

Tony

I third Don. Hate to start spraying color only to reveal more sanding/filling flaws. Primer is a great step to check your work, plus, if you do have paint lifting after masking, you'd be saying...I wished I'd primed. But it helps to have a good primer. Mr. Surfacer and Tamiya both make excellent laquer primers/fillers in rattle can and bottle for airbrushing.

Blueline thanks for the tip,i did the same thing wash and paint but didn't have any problems.

I think i'll start priming from now on.

Leon

My two cents is that I used to never prime and would have adhesion problems when using most acrylic paints.  I would just wash and paint.  About 5 models ago, I said to myself, "Self, lets try this priming thing."

I tried Valejo primer and Alclad primers and the results, for me, were dismal.  On a whim, I sprayed from a rattle can some MM flat black lacquer on a model, and I liked the results.  The acrylic topcoats adhere very well and it saves me having to preshade because I can vary the amount of topcoat for effects.

YMMV, but for me I am sticking with black lacquer.

I see three advantages to priming.  First, it improves paint adhesion.  Secondly, it gives you a uniform color which after awhile you learn to gauge the effects of various paints as to exact shading.  Third, if you have bad seams and have to do sanding, filing, and filling, the flat prime gives you a good idea of what the surface will look like with further paint (and a good, full bodied primer helps cover the scratches from sandpaper and files).

I second that. 110% correct. Priming is mandatory for me.

Great tip Don thanks for the reply.I've seen were guys use primer to check for flaws.

Leon

I see three advantages to priming.  First, it improves paint adhesion.  Secondly, it gives you a uniform color which after awhile you learn to gauge the effects of various paints as to exact shading.  Third, if you have bad seams and have to do sanding, filing, and filling, the flat prime gives you a good idea of what the surface will look like with further paint (and a good, full bodied primer helps cover the scratches from sandpaper and files).

I never prime. I use PE and resin all the time and have never had a problem.

If, as Tojo says you have a kit made of dark plastic and its being painted a light colour, then to prime might make sense.

Thanks Tojo

Not necessary all the time.If iyou are painting dark plastic with a light paint,it helps,or if you are using multi-media like plastic,brass,aluminum,and resin all togther,the it pulls everything together.But I don't always find that it is needed.