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Problem with Iwata HP-CS

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  • Member since
    October 2012
  • From: Mt. Washington, KY
Posted by Geezer on Thursday, November 14, 2013 2:54 PM

Bearcat57
Glad you're in business, Lyle. I wouldn't want to be without my Iwata

just one thing though....everyone knows Roscoe was the Sheriff - not the Deputy!
hot pursuit!!..ghiiiiig ghiiiig ghiiiiig ghiiiig!

Bearcat, you are 100% correct. my bad. As much as we watched that show and my son when little (and now if asked) mimicked that I should have gotten it right. Sheesh what a goober. (nother show)

www.spamodeler.com/forum/index.php 

Mediocraties - my favorite Greek model builder. 

 

  • Member since
    November 2006
Posted by Bearcat57 on Wednesday, November 13, 2013 9:31 PM
Glad you're in business, Lyle. I wouldn't want to be without my Iwata

just one thing though....everyone knows Roscoe was the Sheriff - not the Deputy!
hot pursuit!!..ghiiiiig ghiiiig ghiiiiig ghiiiig!
  • Member since
    October 2012
  • From: Mt. Washington, KY
Posted by Geezer on Wednesday, November 13, 2013 6:29 AM

Thanks guys. I may even try, wait for it......making mottles on the models. Bad, I know. I played around with it for about 20 min and I do think I like it. Trigger seems pretty responsive. Anyway, yes a happy ending and I think i'll send a nasty gram to HL via e-mail.

Lyle.

www.spamodeler.com/forum/index.php 

Mediocraties - my favorite Greek model builder. 

 

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Chapin, South Carolina
Posted by Shipwreck on Wednesday, November 13, 2013 5:48 AM

I am glade a simple/cheap solution worked for you. Happy Iwata painting!!

On the Bench:

Revell 1/96 USS Constitution - rigging

Revell 1/48 B-1B Lancer Prep and research

Trumpeter 1/350 USS Hornet CV-8 Prep and research

 

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Tuesday, November 12, 2013 10:31 PM

Great that it works now. And yes, you can get really fine lines with the .35mm, especially once you practice, almost no need to go any smaller. I can tell quite a difference between that and my .5mm set up.

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Tuesday, November 12, 2013 10:23 PM

It's always good to see a happy ending.  Don't you think, "How the heck did I manage to paint without the Iwata?"

Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank

  • Member since
    October 2012
  • From: Mt. Washington, KY
Posted by Geezer on Tuesday, November 12, 2013 6:43 PM

Yea, a floor manager was standing right there. She looks like she has a burr up her saddle anyway. The cashier did ask if i wanted to return it, etc. NO, not unless you will sell me another one at that price. Anyway, Happy, Happy.

Seems to spray okay. amazingly small lines with the .35mm needle.

www.spamodeler.com/forum/index.php 

Mediocraties - my favorite Greek model builder. 

 

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Tuesday, November 12, 2013 6:24 PM

Good to hear you got it working. Shame about the response from the shop staff.

  • Member since
    October 2012
  • From: Mt. Washington, KY
Posted by Geezer on Tuesday, November 12, 2013 6:20 PM

I do believe that Deputy Roscoe P. Coletrain said it best..."Good News, Good News". It was either him or the Gaither Vocal Band.

Bought a nozzle and needle cap at Hobby Lobby this evening. Shazaam, it seems to be working. Told them why I was buying the parts and the lack of response was deafening. Still, for under 100 bucks, i got an Iwata HP-CS.

Gentlemen, thank you for all the assistance.

Lyle.

www.spamodeler.com/forum/index.php 

Mediocraties - my favorite Greek model builder. 

 

  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Tuesday, November 12, 2013 11:53 AM

Chicago Airbrush sells a .5 conversion kit which costs less than the total price of all the necessary parts. But, unless you plan to shoot primers, the difference between .35 and .5 is minimal.

Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Chapin, South Carolina
Posted by Shipwreck on Tuesday, November 12, 2013 9:37 AM

Geezer, if HL will not help you on this, you will need to shop for parts, and from what you said is missing it will cost you more to put it back together than the cost of a new one. think of this, a new nozzle from HL $27.49 + shipping $7.95 = $35.44 + a needle cap $6.99 = $42.43. Now what did you pay for this thing? Well Geezer it is a good brush. I have two of them, HP-BCS & HP-CS. If you want to end up with a .5mm brush you will need to, when you buy your nozzle and needle head, replace your.35 needle with an .5 needle.  Unless you are a pro-modeler .5 or.35 will not make much of a difference.

On the Bench:

Revell 1/96 USS Constitution - rigging

Revell 1/48 B-1B Lancer Prep and research

Trumpeter 1/350 USS Hornet CV-8 Prep and research

 

 

 

  • Member since
    October 2012
  • From: Mt. Washington, KY
Posted by Geezer on Tuesday, November 12, 2013 8:35 AM

Nathan, I saw that conversion kit. May get it down the road. My Badgers are .5mm already. I don't expect HL to do anything other than to say, "sorry for you luck".....In their eyes, i'm sure, I cannot prove anything. we'll see.

www.spamodeler.com/forum/index.php 

Mediocraties - my favorite Greek model builder. 

 

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Tuesday, November 12, 2013 8:32 AM

Wow. No Nozzle? Hope Hobby Lobby can make it right for you, unless they advertised it as used and incomplete? While your at it, this airbrush can also be changed to a .5mm needle and nozzle set up for general coverage and priming by replacing parts # 2 and #4, and getting a .5mm needle. Just a good all around versatile airbrush.

 

 

  • Member since
    October 2012
  • From: Mt. Washington, KY
Posted by Geezer on Tuesday, November 12, 2013 7:20 AM

Yeah, I think I can find one at HL this evening. I'll keep you posted. Really appreciate the time and replies from you guys. As others have said, a great bunch of folks here.

lyle

www.spamodeler.com/forum/index.php 

Mediocraties - my favorite Greek model builder. 

 

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Tuesday, November 12, 2013 7:10 AM

Okay.. Part 1 - the needle cap. It's there to protect the point of the needle. Your airbrush should work without it, people often remove this to get right up close and personal.

The sticking point is the nozzle itself (part 4). There's no way on earth that it will work without it.

The good news is that you should be able to get these parts for <$20.00

  • Member since
    October 2012
  • From: Mt. Washington, KY
Posted by Geezer on Tuesday, November 12, 2013 6:37 AM

Phil, I can do that, but I mis-identified the part number. It is part #1 the needle cap, not the head cap (#3). Old eyes and a PO'd state of mind. What is missing apparently - the needle cap and a nozzle. everything else is accounted for.

www.spamodeler.com/forum/index.php 

Mediocraties - my favorite Greek model builder. 

 

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Monday, November 11, 2013 10:50 PM

Geezer
didn't find (or lost) the nozzle part number 4. cannot see how it could have been lost though. it now shoots everything back through the cup. sigh. There was no end-cap either part number 3..

If possible, take a photo and show us what you have got. If these parts are missing, you're missing the whole front end of the brush, as the nozzle cap and crown attach to the front of #3, the head cap.

 

  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Monday, November 11, 2013 9:26 PM

Somebody seriously screwed it up and returned it. If I were you, I'd return it and buy brand new.

I have an Eclipse HP-CS that I bought new for something like $110 from Chicago Airbrush Supply 2 years ago. I've never had a problem with it. It's an awesome airbrush and dead easy to clean.

Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank

  • Member since
    October 2012
  • From: Mt. Washington, KY
Posted by Geezer on Monday, November 11, 2013 6:25 PM

I think someone may have purchased this, boogered it up and then packed it back up and returned it. I have it in the ultrasonic cleaner. When i took it apart, there was all sorts of red junk in and around the tip parts. Before this, i put a bit of cleaner in it, blocked the end and no bubbles, nothing. I also could not push the needle so that it stuck out. We'll see.

didn't find (or lost) the nozzle part number 4. cannot see how it could have been lost though. it now shoots everything back through the cup. sigh. There was no end-cap either part number 3..

 

www.spamodeler.com/forum/index.php 

Mediocraties - my favorite Greek model builder. 

 

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Monday, November 11, 2013 3:40 PM

Yes, try shooting just thinner through it and get back to us. The HP disassembles pretty easy if you need to go that route. Unfortunately, some parts can get spendy.

 

 

  • Member since
    October 2012
  • From: Mt. Washington, KY
Posted by Geezer on Monday, November 11, 2013 12:27 PM

I'll try that, Chris. I know Iwata's reputation, but this is the first one I've owned. It was a bargain buy at Hobby Lobby - Started out at 199.99, then at 119.99 and then 72.99.....I wonder if someone bought it,  then boogered it up and then returned it.....at any rate, even if I have to buy some parts, it will still be less than a full price buy. I hope.

www.spamodeler.com/forum/index.php 

Mediocraties - my favorite Greek model builder. 

 

  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Monday, November 11, 2013 12:22 PM

Try to shoot water. If it comes out, you need to thin the paint more. I thin Tamiya acrylics to a 1:1 ratio. Iwata ABs are highly reliable (I have two of them) but there's a chance that you got a lemon.

Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank

  • Member since
    October 2012
  • From: Mt. Washington, KY
Posted by Geezer on Monday, November 11, 2013 11:34 AM

Hi, Nathan. I am using Tamiya acrylics. Probably thinned to 70-30 or so. Dumped it over to the Badger and it sprayed fine. I am pretty sure I can see the needle moving back and forth. No bubbles, no spatter, nothing but air. I plan on a good cleaning in the next few days.

www.spamodeler.com/forum/index.php 

Mediocraties - my favorite Greek model builder. 

 

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Monday, November 11, 2013 10:46 AM

So even from the start you can't get paint to flow at all?? Cause tip dry when its bad enough will block paint flow, you will see this happening when it starts to backfeed with bubbles inside the cup. Also, when not properly cleaned, the trigger will move the chuck  back and forth, but the needle itself can be stuck inside the body at the point of the needle seal, and won't move.

What paints are you using and did you thin them enough to be able to spray in the first place. This is a great airbrush and is generally trouble free.

 

 

  • Member since
    October 2012
  • From: Mt. Washington, KY
Problem with Iwata HP-CS
Posted by Geezer on Monday, November 11, 2013 9:51 AM

Well, maybe by bargain ($72) wasn't....Tried to use it first time over the weekend. Air comes our, trigger moves the needle back, etc. but no paint comes out.  I also learned how quickly the acrylics dry....

 

Any help or thoughts will be appreciated. I've not disassembled the airbrush as of yet.

 

Lyle W.

www.spamodeler.com/forum/index.php 

Mediocraties - my favorite Greek model builder. 

 

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