Monogram 1:48 scale B29

Great info. guys.  Thanks

BlackSheepTwoOneFour

Or go with a simple Rustoleum Silver spray paint. In reality, silver is silver IMO so who's gonna notice?  There are some in various shades too. Not to mention, bigger spray can for bigger jobs. Just a thought...

In addition to color, the spectral content of the paint, for a bare metal surface we need to worry about the reflectance distribution with angle.  The two extremes are matt and gloss, but those are not the only distributions- there is a continuum between.  Now a matt surface with a fairly flat spectral distribution and correct shade of gray can indeed represent a dull, heavily weathered aluminum fairly well. But the shinier you want the surface, the more difficult it becomes to make a good paint that will have the angular distribution of a clean, new or polished aluminum.

Most gloss silver (silver has a higher reflectivity than aluminum, btw) has the pigment  reflect at a medium gloss but the vehicle having the high gloss, and that does not look that much like metal.  What Alclad does is create a very thin colored layer, so thin you see the gloss from the underlayer (gloss black).  Even in the non-polish colors the stuff does a good job not only matching color, but matching the reflectivity distribution of aluminum or the metal is is depicting.

Dennis737

I'm going to do the Alcad Aluminum finish on my B-29.  I don't quite know why the gloss black needs to be done first, but I will follow the instructions.

The base paint brings out different shades of the Alclad. However, the more Alclad you apply the less the base coat affects the finish.

Gloss black does a fantastic job of bringing on the shine.
Here's and example of my F100. The fuselage has a gloss grey base coat, while the drop tanks have a gloss black base coat.

And here is a 104 with a gloss black primer base.

Hope that helps.

Steve

Or go with a simple Rustoleum Silver spray paint. In reality, silver is silver IMO so who's gonna notice?  There are some in various shades too. Not to mention, bigger spray can for bigger jobs. Just a thought...

Thanks all you guys for your advice.  I purchased a Iwata Airbrush and I'm going to do the Alcad Aluminum finish on my B-29.  I don't quite know why the gloss black needs to be done first, but I will follow the instructions.  Thanks again for the help.

I'd go with Alclad also. It has a learning curve but isn't that hard.   As Don said the base color for any of the shinny Alclads ( Chrome, Air frame Aluminum, Polished Aluminum) is a super shinny, smooth  black .

For a good general read of "how to" with  Alclad; go to this article by Matt Swan  

http://www.swannysmodels.com/Alclad.html 

I'll second Alclad, nothing out there will give you so satisfying a result.  I lay out an acrylic primer, an acrylic black layer, Alclad lacquer gloss, a few polishes, as Don says, and then the aluminum.

Alclad aluminum should fill the bill.  You need to put it over a flawless gloss black undercoat.  Folks seem to use many different blacks, acrylic, enamel, or lacquer, take your pick. It just has to be super clean and dust free. If it has flaws, sand with super fine paper, try another coat.  The slightest flaw or dust spec really shows up on an Alclad finish.

I've decided to pick up a Iwata Airbrush.  What brand and finish would you all suggest for a bare aluminum B-29.  Thanks in advance guys.

Thanks.  I was thinking that the metalizer paints may be the way to go.

Testor's Metalizer paints come in a spray can and can give a realistic finish. They aren't very durable finishes, so you will want to use the sealer that they sell. That said, you will want to make sure your build is free of scratches, and the plastic is smooth so you get a good finish; metallic paints are very good at showing up surface blemishes. Also, Metalizer goes on the bare plastic; so you won't get the benefit of a primer to cover up scratches.

Thanks again you guys for helping me out.  I already have a one gallon compressor.  Now, what is the Cadillac of airbrushes.  I've heard that Paacsh (sp) is a good brand.  Anyone want to help me out?

Again, thanks for any help.  I'm retired now and have been out of the hobby for quite some time.

I would echo what Don said, I wouldn't risk trying to hand brush that big of a model with silver or aluminum.  You could try the Krylon or other brand of rattle can option if you are so inclined.  I did that on a 1/48 B-17G several years ago, I can say it didnt turn out too bad; however, it definitely wasn't as nice as I would do now.   I myself didnt have an airbrush either when I got back into the hobby after about 15 years away.  I looked online and found a rather inexpensive airbrush and mini compressor online.  I figured if I was going to get the best looking models I could get then I needed to add this to my toolbox.  I wanted a cheaper one to experiment with since I had never used one.  I have got to the point now of being more confident in my ability and will be upgrading to a better quality system.

Good luck, just my .02 opinion.

Thanks for the advice Don.  I was hoping that I could get away with using Testors MM spray can paint or maybe Tamiya spray paints.  I just don't know which finish I should use.  Thanks

Hand brushing a large model is very hard.  I really believe to get proficient in hand painting takes more skill and practice than using an airbrush, and silver or aluminum is probably the hardest color to brush.  One alternative is bare metal foil, but that is also a real challenge and requires quite a bit of skill.  I'd recommend putting that kit aside until you can come up with an airbrush.

If you do decide to go ahead with brush painting, I'd recommend a learning period where you spend at least two to three hours painting scrap plastic with flat aluminum paint.

Krylon does make a so-called matt aluminum in a spray can, but I find it quite glossy myself.  I suppose the final coat could be dulled down with Dullcoat.  However getting a dust-free spray can job is not a cinch either, and I would recommend practice again before putting on your model.  Ruining a model like that might be as expensive as buying an airbrush!