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Beginner Issues with Enamels

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  • Member since
    February 2015
Beginner Issues with Enamels
Posted by scottabe on Friday, February 20, 2015 5:44 AM

Hey all, I need some assistance with my current kit. I've been working with Tamiya enamels and I'm noticing over the past two kits that I'm having issues with my pin washing phase.

Yesterday I sprayed my base coat (3 coats total) and this morning I applied a gloss coat so I could start my pin washing and decaling. However, I think I didn't wait long enough for the enamels to dry. I started by only pin washing one wing and after a few hours to dry I can't get the panel wash to come off with a cotton bud. I tried to dampen the bud with water but no luck and all I'm doing is damaging my base coat every time I try to scratch away the washing.

I'm aggravated now. I had a beautiful paint job going and now I have a ugly banged up wing with excess wash that won't come off. What am I doing wrong? Can I get some advice? How long should I wait with enamels to cure before I apply wash and decals? Help...please help.

Cheers~ 

Scottabe

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  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, February 20, 2015 9:36 AM

Real enamels (not acrylic enamels) may take a long time to dry, especially gloss enamels. I have had gloss enamels take up to a week to dry.  I now use a homemade heated drying box for enamels.  Enamel drying is dependent on weather, too.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Friday, February 20, 2015 10:13 AM

Are you using Tamiya enamels for the base color, pin wash, or both?

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, February 20, 2015 12:16 PM

What are you using to do the wash. I don't have experience with Tamiya enamels, but I do use other enamels on a regular bases and generally find 24 hours is plenty of drying time. Was the gloss coat also enamel. personally, I can't get on with doing washes on gloss finish, I much prefer a mat finish.

If your using an acrylic wash, it might be you are leaving this to long.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Friday, February 20, 2015 2:18 PM

stikpusher

Are you using Tamiya enamels for the base color, pin wash, or both?

Why are you assuming he's using Tamiya enamels, which are not readily available in the US?

Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, February 20, 2015 2:26 PM

Chris, he said that's what he was using in his opening paragraph. And he is in Australia not the US.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    February 2015
Posted by scottabe on Friday, February 20, 2015 4:14 PM

I'm using tamiya enamel for my base and MIGs dark wash

Scottabe

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  • Member since
    February 2015
Posted by scottabe on Friday, February 20, 2015 5:10 PM

I should add as well, when I applied the 3x enamel base coats I only let it dry 1 hour between coats and the gloss coat was Humbrol Gloss thinned with Tamiya enamel thinner which has now been sitting for over 24 hours on my kit. Is Humbrol Gloss OK to use in the situation (washing/decaling work) or is it meant for a finishing gloss coat only? Would there be any issues using Tamiya thinner with Humbrol Gloss? I'd like to hear what you use for this situation? I'm about to start a new kit shortly, I think I may switch to acrylics of this new kit. Will I continue to have issues like this with acrylics?

Scottabe

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  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Friday, February 20, 2015 5:16 PM

Just a guess, but since all your layers are enamels, you're likely to have problems. My best luck is using a dissimilar layer for the in between clear coat such as an acrylic gloss coat. Enamel thinners have a tendency to attack enamel layers that have not been sealed with an acrylic.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, February 20, 2015 5:26 PM

I am guessing that the MiG wash is enamel. In that case I think your lucky to get away with what you did. I would have thought an enamel wash on enamel base would have lifted the paint. Either switch to Acrylic paints or, as SP suggests, put an Acrylic layer between your paint and wash.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Friday, February 20, 2015 6:28 PM

Bish

Chris, he said that's what he was using in his opening paragraph. And he is in Australia not the US.

My Bad!  I'm sorry. 

I saw tons of Tamiya enamels in South Korea when I visited there.  Does anyone know why Tamiya enamels are not available in the U.S.?  Given the high quality of their acrylics, Tamiya enamels must be good.

Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Friday, February 20, 2015 6:43 PM

Probably Testors parent company paying off customs or the EPA ;) just kidding... Perhaps it's a labeling or formulation issue and Tamiya already had enough of that headache with their acrylics a few years back... Just a SWAG on my part, but...

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Friday, February 20, 2015 7:03 PM

Bish is correct.  MiG wash is enamel.  That's why the OP is having an issue.

Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Friday, February 20, 2015 10:21 PM

stikpusher
Perhaps it's a labeling or formulation issue

I'd put my money on labelling. There's minimal English on the label. The X/XF code is quite prominent but you have to look hard to find the colour name.

  • Member since
    February 2015
Posted by scottabe on Friday, February 20, 2015 10:29 PM

I've sanded back my kit and reapplied the base coat. I'm going to finish it up with Tamiya acrylic gloss finish and try again based on the info provided. Keeping my fingers crossed this helps. Thanks for the input.

Scottabe

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  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, February 21, 2015 2:56 AM

Chrisk-k

Bish

Chris, he said that's what he was using in his opening paragraph. And he is in Australia not the US.

My Bad!  I'm sorry. 

I saw tons of Tamiya enamels in South Korea when I visited there.  Does anyone know why Tamiya enamels are not available in the U.S.?  Given the high quality of their acrylics, Tamiya enamels must be good.

They don't seem to be widely available in the UK either. Some of the online stores, Hannants for one, sell them, but I have never come across them in the shops.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

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