Beginner Issues with Enamels

Chrisk-k

Bish

Chris, he said that's what he was using in his opening paragraph. And he is in Australia not the US.

My Bad!  I'm sorry. 

I saw tons of Tamiya enamels in South Korea when I visited there.  Does anyone know why Tamiya enamels are not available in the U.S.?  Given the high quality of their acrylics, Tamiya enamels must be good.

They don't seem to be widely available in the UK either. Some of the online stores, Hannants for one, sell them, but I have never come across them in the shops.

I've sanded back my kit and reapplied the base coat. I'm going to finish it up with Tamiya acrylic gloss finish and try again based on the info provided. Keeping my fingers crossed this helps. Thanks for the input.

stikpusher

Perhaps it's a labeling or formulation issue

I'd put my money on labelling. There's minimal English on the label. The X/XF code is quite prominent but you have to look hard to find the colour name.

Bish is correct.  MiG wash is enamel.  That's why the OP is having an issue.

Probably Testors parent company paying off customs or the EPA ;) just kidding... Perhaps it's a labeling or formulation issue and Tamiya already had enough of that headache with their acrylics a few years back... Just a SWAG on my part, but...

Bish

Chris, he said that's what he was using in his opening paragraph. And he is in Australia not the US.

My Bad!  I'm sorry. 

I saw tons of Tamiya enamels in South Korea when I visited there.  Does anyone know why Tamiya enamels are not available in the U.S.?  Given the high quality of their acrylics, Tamiya enamels must be good.

I am guessing that the MiG wash is enamel. In that case I think your lucky to get away with what you did. I would have thought an enamel wash on enamel base would have lifted the paint. Either switch to Acrylic paints or, as SP suggests, put an Acrylic layer between your paint and wash.

Just a guess, but since all your layers are enamels, you're likely to have problems. My best luck is using a dissimilar layer for the in between clear coat such as an acrylic gloss coat. Enamel thinners have a tendency to attack enamel layers that have not been sealed with an acrylic.

I should add as well, when I applied the 3x enamel base coats I only let it dry 1 hour between coats and the gloss coat was Humbrol Gloss thinned with Tamiya enamel thinner which has now been sitting for over 24 hours on my kit. Is Humbrol Gloss OK to use in the situation (washing/decaling work) or is it meant for a finishing gloss coat only? Would there be any issues using Tamiya thinner with Humbrol Gloss? I'd like to hear what you use for this situation? I'm about to start a new kit shortly, I think I may switch to acrylics of this new kit. Will I continue to have issues like this with acrylics?

I'm using tamiya enamel for my base and MIGs dark wash

Chris, he said that's what he was using in his opening paragraph. And he is in Australia not the US.

stikpusher

Are you using Tamiya enamels for the base color, pin wash, or both?

Why are you assuming he's using Tamiya enamels, which are not readily available in the US?

What are you using to do the wash. I don't have experience with Tamiya enamels, but I do use other enamels on a regular bases and generally find 24 hours is plenty of drying time. Was the gloss coat also enamel. personally, I can't get on with doing washes on gloss finish, I much prefer a mat finish.

If your using an acrylic wash, it might be you are leaving this to long.

Are you using Tamiya enamels for the base color, pin wash, or both?

Real enamels (not acrylic enamels) may take a long time to dry, especially gloss enamels. I have had gloss enamels take up to a week to dry.  I now use a homemade heated drying box for enamels.  Enamel drying is dependent on weather, too.