Hockey

I use acrylics, enamels and lacquer paints.

plasticjunkie

Hokey

Yes I use LT for flushing and cleaning cuz it removes even caked dried junk. Then I take a Q Tip and wipe the cup and any spills on the outside of the cup. I use the generic LT in the red and blue can from Home Depot.

Hokey

Yes I use LT for flushing and cleaning cuz it removes even caked dried junk. Then I take a Q Tip and wipe the cup and any spills on the outside of the cup. I use the generic LT in the red and blue can from Home Depot.

Yeah, I left my GREX overnight in Simple Green to soak and it ate the rubber seals in the brush! Still works fine though, now paint leaks back into the body of the brush- annoying but usable. Still I'd recommend not making the same mistake I did!  

plasticjunkie

Radial

No not in a day but sessions that may take several days or weeks. The only time I will break it down before several uses is if is not atomizing properly otherwise it gets several flushes only. The LT will easily dissolve everything including dried acrylic but NEVER soak the AB body cause it will cause damage.

This came directly from the Badger repair tech. I also asked him about using glycerin as a lubricant. He told me to dip the needle then wipe it leaving a thin coating. He said it lubricates the needle and keeps junk from sticking to it. So I went to the local CVS Pharmacy and got me a bottle for a couple of bucks and have been doing this procedure now.

Do you flush using LT too? Nothing else for flushing or tip soaking? LT for break down cleaning too?

What kind of LT? Just hardware store quart/pint?

plasticjunkie

 I use lacquer thinner in all 3 Badgers and one is 40 years old.

My Badger 200 is also just over forty years old!  These things are bulletproof!

Radial

No not in a day but sessions that may take several days or weeks. The only time I will break it down before several uses is if is not atomizing properly otherwise it gets several flushes only. The LT will easily dissolve everything including dried acrylic but NEVER soak the AB body cause it will cause damage.

This came directly from the Badger repair tech. I also asked him about using glycerin as a lubricant. He told me to dip the needle then wipe it leaving a thin coating. He said it lubricates the needle and keeps junk from sticking to it. So I went to the local CVS Pharmacy and got me a bottle for a couple of bucks and have been doing this procedure now.

I too will let the front end parts stand in a small tin of LT before swabbing with a cotton swab and reassemble. I did order an Iwata cleaning tray after multiple fun times chasing parts across the garage floor with a flashlight. Training my hands to STAY over the bench!

Plasticjunkie... is that 4 or 5 times colors in one day or will you let it sit for 4 days before breakdown?

I'm hesitant to leave the breakdown that long but knowing I could would be reassuring. Does the medium fit into the decision?

The only time I soak is just the tip off the AB for a few minutes. I use lacquer thinner in all 3 Badgers and one is 40 years old. I shoot the LT through to clean things in between sessions. I break the AB down for a good cleaning about every 4 or 5 uses.

The only time I had a needle bearing damaged was when I used Mr. Surfacer. I have used the Tamiya primer in my AB with no problems.

One reason I like my Badger 200 and 150 is that they are all metal- mostly brass.  Except for the teflon washer that seems to stand up well to most solvents though I usually do not put that in the jar.  Anyway, I have had no damage from either in letting parts stand in either strong thinners (lacquer thinner and others) nor strong caustic detergents.

Doesn't sound like a good idea, with water you would be OK, but you would have to be careful with any type of cleaner.

Solvent based cleaners would deteriorate any rubber seals (black) in the area & any cleaner at all may tarnish or eventually undermine the chrome or nickel plate through microscopic cracks / flaws in the finish & lead to the plate separating from the underlying brass. 

Radial9

I watched an interview recently with the owner of Badger. He was asked the question. Absolutely no soaking was his reply. This guy owns a company that designs airbrushed and gets dozens in for replacement of bad seals. Also abhors stiff metal cleaning brushes. I'm taking his advice. I have started breaking down the front end and pulling the needle for cleaning between colors. He says its not necessary but sometimes I get pulled away from the bench between colors for many reasons. I just feel better having a clean AB sitting there for the next color or whatever comes to pass. He also mentioned there is never a need to disassemble anything more than the front end and needle.

Where did you see the interview?

I use acrylics (mostly Tamiya). I sometimes leave my airbrushes (3 Iwatas) for 30-60 minutes between color changes and have never had a problem. After shooting a color, I just shoot IPA a couple times and leave IPA in the cup.

I watched an interview recently with the owner of Badger. He was asked the question. Absolutely no soaking was his reply. This guy owns a company that designs airbrushed and gets dozens in for replacement of bad seals. Also abhors stiff metal cleaning brushes. I'm taking his advice. I have started breaking down the front end and pulling the needle for cleaning between colors. He says its not necessary but sometimes I get pulled away from the bench between colors for many reasons. I just feel better having a clean AB sitting there for the next color or whatever comes to pass. He also mentioned there is never a need to disassemble anything more than the front end and needle.

What I do and YMMV. When finished with a color and NOT going to spray for some short (not overnight) time I put a little thinner in the AB, swish around, dump on a paper towel then put a little more thinner in and spray til clear, wipe cup with a paper towel, then put a little thinner in the cup, spay a little, place it in my holder and go about building. When ready to paint again I spray some of the thinner (already in the cup), change color and get on with painting. IF some paint has dried at the tip, I moisten a Q-Tip, cotton bud or whatever with thinner, withdraw the needle, swab the nozzle and then paint. Works for me but I use craft acrylics mostly.

I agree with Fly-n-hi, a few things to consider.

What make and model is the AB, where are the seals and O rings and what are they made of?

I suspect leaving it to soak would be a good way to prevent residual paint setting up, but may well cause serious damage to AB components, if they are not compatible with the liquid used for soaking.

When finished with one color I spray a rinse through the AB, wipe everything clean, spray more rinse through, then dis-assemble the front parts for individual cleaning, withdraw the needle for a good wipe down and I'm ready for the next spray application. Takes just a few minutes, but well worth the time as a preventative maintenance step to prevent AB damage, and to assure long service life.

A good quality AB can serve reliably for decades if given that extra measure of care, and perform like new as well. Just my thoughts.

Patrick

I just do a quick clean by wiping out the used paint and run windex through until clear. I use acrylics. It is ready for the next color then.

Maybe.  Depends on the solution.  Some thinners like lacquer thinner can damage parts that aren't made of metal.