A quick question about Michales Craft Smart acrylics

I have air brushed craft acrylics thinned with Future, water, and Testors Universal Acrylic thinner but you have to use a primer cause I have found that craft acrylics don't adhere well to bare plastic.

Some time back member Bick turned me on to craft acrylics, tried a few, some seemed a bit grainy and not a great finish, some were just fine. The "Craft Smart" brand is the best craft acrylic I've found, only tried a few colors, but they airbrush quite well when thinned at the appropriate amount. 

I've thinned with water and lacquer thinner, the lacquer thinner gives it sufficient "bite" for good plastic adhesion, no lifting experienced when pulling masks/tape. It also brushes really well, when covering small parts.

Cleanup is done by a couple of water rinse sprays, followed by lacquer thinner, then a dis-assembly and thorough cleaning of airbrush internals. Speaking based on my experience with the product, I like Craft Smart quite well.

Still, as much as I like the product for small jobs, for overall model finishes I will stick with Tamiya acrylic. It's the only one available at my LHS, I know some guys use other brands and like them, but for my shopping convenience I'll continue with Tamiya. Don't mess with success syndrome I guess.

Patrick

So you spend your disposable income on a model kit. You take hours out of your life putting it together, filling seams, adjusting fit, (hopefully) creating a perfect build and then you want to go an paint it with cheap craft paint that isn't made for styrene? I don't get it at all. It money the only thing people value? Do you no value the work you put into a build enought to break down and buy some dang model paint?

Uh, yup. His money, his kit, his time, his decision. 

TomcatGuy

Not impressed.

 

You want to be cheap go for it. Ruin all the models you want. Make all the extra work you want. I don't really care. Just stop passing stupid tips like painting with craft acrylics to newbies.

 

Tomcat, I'll refer you to the expectations of people posting on the forums, regarding civility, manners and consideration. Easy to find, go back to the forums directory, there you'll locate the outline. 

Please keep in mind that the forums are for people communicating information and ideas, none of which are intended to be taken as "stupid," or labeled as such.

Offensive language and hyper critical negative judgements lead to nothing positive. Contributions to the forums and the member's are expected to be respectful and civil, if you find yourself in dis-agreement with a post then either express your thoughts with restraint, or simply move on to another that you do find worthwhile.

I've lived too long and I'm too old to tolerate your hostility. I'll thank you in advance for honoring the forum rules, please mind your manners.

Patrick   

TG I agree with you completely, just don't think the tone is good at all.

But I am so careful of my time that I usually purchase new paint for most model projects. And I'm not wealthy, far far from it.

I couldn't care less what offends you. If you're offended by something you're the problem. Not me. Who am I to offend you with my thoughts? You are really going to let a stranger have that much control over your emotions? If you don't like what I have to say, move on. It's really that simple.

Thank you for your question. I am new to modeling also and was looking at all the paints. Trying to figure out what the difference  was also. I was getting over whelmed trying to figure it out. LOL. Sometimes I wonder  about products  I buy if it the name I am buying or if it is actually a better product.  Good luck hopefully  you will let us know you personal review / thoughts on this paint. Karl

Yes EXACTLY!

Did you read what I said in my post?

The issue is that I do have the great model paint, Tamiya, Testors etc. But since I have no spray booth I have to paint in my basement. I did use the Tamiya which is awsome but the Tamiya thinner nuked my basement with the strong chemical ordour and the area were I worked for hours, not including the ourdour throughout my house. This is why I'm trying out the craft paint. No ordour and I have had some very good success with it. If I can get some good sugestions and help on trying this out then I can paint all year round. I did buy some cheap test models to test on $5-$6 so there is no reall loss.

jr223

Yes EXACTLY!

Did you read what I said in my post?

The issue is that I do have the great model paint, Tamiya, Testors etc. But since I have no spray booth I have to paint in my basement. I did use the Tamiya which is awsome but the Tamiya thinner nuked my basement with the strong chemical ordour and the area were I worked for hours, not including the ourdour throughout my house. This is why I'm trying out the craft paint. No ordour and I have had some very good success with it. If I can get some good sugestions and help on trying this out then I can paint all year round. I did buy some cheap test models to test on $5-$6 so there is no reall loss.

 

JR223, I had posted that lacquer thinner works well with the Craft Smart acrylic, for giving good adhesion to the plastic. But if you're painting without a spray booth for outside venting and fumes are the consideration, then the lacquer thinner isn't the way.

If you do a lot of masking for additional colors, the straight craft acrylic likely won't give you the bite you need, otherwise if applied and left to cure for 24-48 hours I find it does work well thinned with water or alcohol. The alcohol odor isn't all that offensive and disappears quickly.

Since you use Tamiya, maybe you have some X-20A thinner and that might work well with the Craft Smart, worth a try anyway. I hope you'll check back in when you find out how it works, I wish you success with it.

Patrick 

jr223, please don't be discouraged by the naysayers! I use craft acrylics almost exclusively and, frankly, I don't think anyone could tell what I used to paint my models when they're finished. The only colors that I haven't found satisfactory in craft acrylics are gold and silver. All other colors can be mixed. And, for me, mixing colors is part of the build process. The two most difficult issues for me were 1) tip dry and 2) adhesion of craft acrylics to styrene. I've found (others have reported too) that GAC200 (GoldenArtistColors) added to the mix helps greatly - just a couple of drops in my AB paint cup. Too, I use airbrush medium and/or Future to thin - Future was made to stick on linoleum and plastic floor tiles and is simply clear acrylic. I've posted before on using a Cotton Bud or QTip to help with tip dry (tip dry happens with all paint but is more common with acrylics - craft of branded). I haven't used (or even heard of till your post) Michaels Smart Craft Acrylics but I will pick some up on my next visit to Michaels. There aren't many on these fora who use craft acrylics and those of us who do like them. I have some Tamiya, Testors Acryl, and Vallejo on the shelf but like craft acrylics. Use whatever you like and what works for you.

TomcatGuy

Not impressed.

 

You want to be cheap go for it. Ruin all the models you want. Make all the extra work you want. I don't really care. Just stop passing stupid tips like painting with craft acrylics to newbies.

 

Newly joining a modeling forum where, in your first few posts, you make yourself a pariah by acting like a grumpy old man. Congratulations; that's gotta be some kind of record here, lol.

I regularly use craft store paints and have been published in articles that featured award-winning models finished with, yes,.....sigh......"stupid" craft store paints.

I guess we award-winning, published Master Modelers will just gave to stick together with our stupid paints...

So cool. I hope to be you when I grow up.

Bick

 2) adhesion of craft acrylics to styrene. I've found (others have reported too) that GAC200 (GoldenArtistColors) added to the mix helps greatly - just a couple of drops in my AB paint cup. 

I've seen it recommended in the magazine as well as in the forums to use additives such as retarders and flow-aide to improve AB and paint performance.  Is there any adverse behavior from adding the GAC200 to the mix?  I've had problems with some paint adhering to the plastic, in addition to a persistent tip drying problem...

Thanks!

I haven't tried the Golden GAC200 yet, I have been using Liquitex for some time, both the Flow Aid and the Slow Dry, but not at the same time. For extended spray sessions the Flow Aid does appear to control tip dry well, and Slow Dry seems to help with allowing acrylic paints to level out nicely for a smoother finish.

I think Tamiya X-20A is a good all around additive for the Tamiya acrylic line, it smells like alcohol to me. I've heard that it might include additives to help prevent tip dry and improve flow out, sure seems to work well for me. If I'm concerened about plastic adhesion I add some lacquer thinner, (just 2 or 3 drops in the metal cup,) the flow out when sprayed is quite good and it really sticks solidly.

I tried Vallejo Model Air for a while, it's good, but their flow improver and tip dry reducer caused the paint to remain a bit soft for several days. Gave a nice finish though, once finally cured.

Hope it helps.

Patrick 

Most of the posts here are interesting, informative, & of a helpfull nature, passing on personal experience, usually hard won, to a relative newcomer.

I am more inclined to regard the posts of folks such as The DOOG, and others who actually post their work, & ignore the negative.

Could someone please post a link or three to the aforementioned Harrier & other work with these craft paints?

I have also used these cheap craft paints from The Works & Hobbycraft (both UK), as yet only on groundwork, often mixed with sand, PVA/Elmers'/Craft glues.

I have also used & sprayed the Daler-Rowney and Windsor & Newton Galeria Artists acrylics & Guache, mostly on paper & graphics. (ex-art student, so last century ) 

The principal problem with Acrylics (vs. Enamel) with regard to models, is adhesion & duribility.

To this end I have been experinenting with 'homebrew' thinners with:

W&N Galeria Flow Improver, Retarder, distilled water & 66%/100% IPA (not the beer, that's for after  )  in various combinations, with various brands of hobby paint. 

This was a bit of an outlay, with enough Improver, Retarder, IPA & distilled water to make 40 Litres, at about 1/4 - 1/3 the price of the equivalent qty. of the (very good) Vallejo thinners.

To start with I would suggest using the Mfr's recommended thinners, & then experimenting from that base point.

Like the original poster, I have issues with spray vapours, & considerations for my housemates, & some combinations (Lacquer/Cellulose thinners & rattle-cans especially) aren't good for that.

One piece of essential equipment was a 3M 82xx series (s/m/l) face mask, with appropriate VOC filters, means you aren't breathing in your brew.

I went of a spraying course, where the airbrush overspray was directed into a bucket filled with waste shredded paper towels, so a box with waste paper positioned to catch overspray would be a start.

Next step, possibly, a spray booth. I have a home-made one, with furnace or fleecy extractor hood filters, vents out the window but could be vented to above bucket of waste trap.

as here: http://www.militarymodelling.com/forums/postings.asp?th=110714

Jr223, Please post any pics of your setup, your work, your progress, & good luck. 

Hellcat_Flyer

Bick

 2) adhesion of craft acrylics to styrene. I've found (others have reported too) that GAC200 (GoldenArtistColors) added to the mix helps greatly - just a couple of drops in my AB paint cup. 

 

 

 

I've seen it recommended in the magazine as well as in the forums to use additives such as retarders and flow-aide to improve AB and paint performance.  Is there any adverse behavior from adding the GAC200 to the mix?  I've had problems with some paint adhering to the plastic, in addition to a persistent tip drying problem...

Thanks!

 

Hi,

I've not seen any adverse effects or behavior from using GAC 200. Some of the models I've painted are a number of years old and, to me, they still look as they did when freshly painted. Too, GAC200 also 'hardens' the paint film which helps if you have to sand painted areas. I've use FlowAid, JetDri, Dawn dishwashing liquid etc to try to prevent 'tip dry' but, though they help some, they don't completely solve the problem. I keep a Q-tip handy when painting and when I get tip dry I dip the QTip in windshield washer fluid, retract the AB needle, insert QTip, rotate QTip, slowly and carefully let the needle into the cotton of the  QTip then get on with painting -works for me.

Jon_a_its

Most of the posts here are interesting, informative, & of a helpfull nature, passing on personal experience, usually hard won, to a relative newcomer.

<snip>

could someone please post a link or three to the aforementioned Harrier & other work with these craft paints?

<big snip>

Jr223, Please post any pics of your setup, your work, your progress, & good luck. 

Hi,

Harrrier is here:http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/p/165135/1811696.aspx#1811696

and here's my "SongBird" painted with craft acrylics http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/p/153875/1653836.aspx#1653836

and my FW190 is in this thread http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/general_discussion/f/9/p/152598/1637004.aspx#1637004

TomcatGuy

I couldn't care less what offends you. If you're offended by something you're the problem. Not me. Who am I to offend you with my thoughts? You are really going to let a stranger have that much control over your emotions? If you don't like what I have to say, move on. It's really that simple.

 

I disagree. From what I've read thus far, YOU, sir have been very rude in your responses. I and the rest of us refuse to "move on" because your snide rude comments. You need to get a life and take a chill pill. I do understand everyone is entitled to an opinion but yours comes off as rude; to the OP and others.

I have been watching you with your posts and continuation of such posts will leave me no choice but report you to the moderators/administrators at FSM.

It's your choice. Knock it off with your attitude.

Thanks for all the great tips and help.

Since my last post I have used the Micahels Craft paint to paint the primary hull and the rest of the model with an ofset green. It looks very good and I will post some pics soon, as I have been busy with schooling.

The paint went on very well, I thinned it with WindeX, however another colour I tried to use to some detail painting did not adhere well to the model.

I fixed it and used another colour and it looks pretty good in my Opinion.I then did a small model car it was a cheap kit $4.99 around there, it look not to bad either. My bigest problem is I get tired and should stop, but keep going and get sloppy.

Thanks Everyone

Cheers

Hi,

I have finished the Star Trek Klingon Ktanga.Since this was one of my early tries with the air brush, using the craft paint I think it turned out really niceley, although I had some trouble with the decals :-).

Please see the images below and let me know what you think.

Hi jr223,

Looks good to me and I'm glad to hear that the Craft Smart acylics worked well for you. After your OP I stopped by a local Michaels and picked up the 12 pack of mixed colors for $6 with a 25% off coupon (50 cents a bottle isn't bad LOL). I've only experimented with a couple of colors on a sheet of white styrene and was pleased to find that using Windex, X20A or my home brew thinner the adhesion was quite good. I didn't add GAC200!! Masking tape didn't lift any of the paint so I hope this carries forward when I do a model with them. Only comment is they seemed, to me, to be a little less gloss than others I have used. Looking forward to trying on an actual model and thanks for letting us know about the Craft Smart paints.