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What caused this cracked paint or clear coat?

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  • Member since
    July 2014
What caused this cracked paint or clear coat?
Posted by Resident Eric on Saturday, October 31, 2015 9:58 PM

Months after my model was painted. The entire model has spider web cracks like this. I can't tell if it's the clear coat that's cracked or the paint underneath. The candy red was airbrushed with Alclad. It's top coated with Future polish. I'm really hoping of a way to correct this. Brushing another coat of Future did nothing. Crying

 

crack paint

  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: texas
Posted by looper on Sunday, November 1, 2015 10:58 PM

i would guess its the paint underneath the clearcoat but i have no first hand experience with this issue.  did you give the paint enough time to gas out before you clear coated it?

 

im really curious to know how you achieved this effect,  i think it looks kind of cool.

Andy
  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by Resident Eric on Monday, November 2, 2015 1:11 AM

looper

i would guess its the paint underneath the clearcoat but i have no first hand experience with this issue.  did you give the paint enough time to gas out before you clear coated it?

 

im really curious to know how you achieved this effect,  i think it looks kind of cool.

 

No, I thought I can clear coat when the base paint is dry to touch? It's just a candy red over gold base.

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Monday, November 2, 2015 8:51 AM

So you didn't let it cure at least 24 hours then? Dry to touch is not completely dried, cured coat of paint.

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by Resident Eric on Monday, November 2, 2015 12:15 PM

No i did not know i had to wait. 

  • Member since
    March 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Monday, November 2, 2015 2:58 PM

Hi, Eric - For my use the rule is dry time at room temperature, (or higher,) of at least 48 hours. As the paint vents the gasses it will shrink, as part of the curing process. If clear coats or other paints are applied before the curing process is completed, then risk of that crinkling is present.

I think Don Stauffer gave the best description of that effect not long ago, if he stops by maybe he will add more than I'm able to.

Just my thoughts, but for me I wait 24 hours for lacquer, 48 hours for enamel or acrylics. Maybe overkill, but I haven't experienced that wrinkling in a very long time.

Patrick 

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by Resident Eric on Monday, November 2, 2015 7:03 PM

patrick206

Hi, Eric - For my use the rule is dry time at room temperature, (or higher,) of at least 48 hours. As the paint vents the gasses it will shrink, as part of the curing process. If clear coats or other paints are applied before the curing process is completed, then risk of that crinkling is present.

I think Don Stauffer gave the best description of that effect not long ago, if he stops by maybe he will add more than I'm able to.

Just my thoughts, but for me I wait 24 hours for lacquer, 48 hours for enamel or acrylics. Maybe overkill, but I haven't experienced that wrinkling in a very long time.

Patrick 

 

 

So this also applies when you do candy colors? Because you need 3 to 4 layers of different colors to create candy colors.

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Monday, November 2, 2015 8:07 PM

My guess - yes. Candy colors are a new animal as far as paint is concerned. They have to be done in several light coats to achieve the color you want.

  • Member since
    March 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Tuesday, November 3, 2015 12:06 AM

Resident Eric

Months after my model was painted. The entire model has spider web cracks like this. I can't tell if it's the clear coat that's cracked or the paint underneath. The candy red was airbrushed with Alclad. It's top coated with Future polish. I'm really hoping of a way to correct this. Brushing another coat of Future did nothing. Crying

 

crack paint

 

Eric,

I think with multi coat candy paint coats, you would lay on the coats in progression with just enough time for the last layer to still be wet enough to accept the next coat. 10 to 20 minutes should be sufficient. That allows the previous coat to set up enough to prevent a run, but still receive the next coat.

Where trouble begins is when the final coat of paint is laid on, and prior to the clear coat being applied the paint has not had sufficient time to dry fully. 

So for transparent colors, keep laying on the successive coats with several minutes between coats, then allow for as much time as needed for sufficient drying and shrinking. Clear coats, 48 hours or more between last color coat. Should do the trick.

Let us know if you find that works for you.

Patrick

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Wednesday, November 4, 2015 5:47 AM

If I'm correct, I think that ALCLAD candy coats are enamel-based? If that's so, old-timers will tell you that enamels take weeks to properly gas out. Enamels are big in auto modeling, and I avoid them for precisely that reason.

  • Member since
    October 2015
Posted by TomcatGuy on Wednesday, November 4, 2015 7:18 AM

Well I'm not familiar with the candy finishes from Alclad but it's almost assuredly enamel from what I see. You don't have to be an oldtimer to know enamel takes days to fully cure. Lacquer doesn't cure and is as dry as it's ever going to get within minutes, so you wouldn't have this problem if that's the case. I've seen this before and it's always been a case of clear coating over uncured enamel.

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by Resident Eric on Wednesday, November 4, 2015 7:40 AM

Yes the candy color is enamel. So the only way to fix this would be repainting?

  • Member since
    August 2015
  • From: Northeast Florida
Posted by Arved on Wednesday, November 4, 2015 9:11 AM

Resident Eric

Yes the candy color is enamel. So the only way to fix this would be repainting?

I can't see the photos - for some reason your website is blocked here at work Oops However, from the discussion, I have some ideas.

If the base coat is intact, and only the clear coat is cracked, you might be able to strip the Future and reapply. Future will come off with ammonia, as any housewife will attest (if you can find one anymore - LOL) The risk is that the ammonia might strip off the layer(s) of paint below.

But if you're using Alclad's paints, is there a reason you're not using Alclad's clear? It's a very good product IMHO.

All the best!

- Arved

e-mail | Blog

"Simplicate and Add Lightness" — design philosophy of Ed Heinemann, Douglas Aircraft

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by Resident Eric on Wednesday, November 4, 2015 9:27 AM

Arved

 

 
Resident Eric

Yes the candy color is enamel. So the only way to fix this would be repainting?

 

 

I can't see the photos - for some reason your website is blocked here at work Oops However, from the discussion, I have some ideas.

If the base coat is intact, and only the clear coat is cracked, you might be able to strip the Future and reapply. Future will come off with ammonia, as any housewife will attest (if you can find one anymore - LOL) The risk is that the ammonia might strip off the layer(s) of paint below.

But if you're using Alclad's paints, is there a reason you're not using Alclad's clear? It's a very good product IMHO.

All the best!

 

 

i don't think it's the topcoat. I tried removing it with windex, it did nothing. Also from my understanding now, it's not really what i use verus when i use the clear coat. 

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