Model Master enamel ?

Another vote for Model Master enamels. Ever since I used their "Field Drab" 30118 to paint my Curtiss P-1 back in 1977 I've been sold. I find enamels much easier to thin and to clean, and I've always kind of liked the smell. I have found myself using more acrylics lately, especially Mr Kit paints for World War 1 stuff, but I still come back to the enamels where possible. For me they're just easier to work with.

stikpusher

God save the Queen and British model companies!

 

Hear, hear!

God save the Queen and British model companies!

stikpusher

If you must have 30277 in enamel, Humbrol still makes the shade. I forget the number, but they call it "Dark Stone". All is not lost yet.

 

If you must have 30277 in enamel, Humbrol still makes the shade. I forget the number, but they call it "Dark Stone". All is not lost yet.

BlackSheepTwoOneFour

You probably still can find it in enamel if you know where to look. Try Scalehobbyist, Squadron, Sprue Brothers, Hobbylinc, etc...

Yeah, I managed to score a couple of bottles of FS30277 "Armor Sand" enamel from a company called Kit Kraft last year; I don't think they had very many left, though (plus, those things only have a shelf life of about a year, anyway)! I figure they'll last me long enough to decide which color to go to for my German armor (I'll probably go with MM Dunkelgelb which is, after all, the "official" color). I suppose I could bow to the inevitable, and switch to acrylics, but then I'll need two of everything for painting; I will resist as long as I can!

If anything, I'd love to see Aeromaster back on the market as well. They can still be found on eBay.

I think the handwriting is on the wall for us enamel users.  The trend really seems to be towards acrylics.  When I started modeling we used model airplane dope for paint, and the smell of enamels is nothing compared to that stuff, so I guess that may be why smell doesn't bother me.  The fact that my workshop is down in the basement doesn't hurt, either.

Also, a lot of peope these days fear the health aspects of enamels and lacquers.  I suppose I have cut a few years from my life by using those hot paints, but I will be 78 in a few months, so they can't be that bad.

In any case, I am resolved to learning how to use acrylics better.  My real problem will be on models needing gloss finishes.  I find it so much easier to get a good gloss with enamel compared to acrylics.  The glossy acrylics just don't seem to be that glossy.

BlackSheepTwoOneFour

 

SoD Stitch

I second all of the modelers who say they only use enamels; in particular, I've been using MM enamels exclusively (well, except for one or two bottles of MM acryls) for the last 30 years (ever since Pactra stopped making enamels; anyone else remember them?). I agree, enamels tend to go on better than acryls, and they are definitely more durable than acrylics but, unfortunately, Testors dropped about 25% of their enamel line last year after they got bought out by Rustoleum (including Armor Sand, one of my favorites, Pale Green, and SAC Bomber Tan). I contacted Testors/Rustoleum about the colors getting dropped, and they said they still make them, but only in acrylics. So, I guess I'll eventually be using MM Acryls, whether I want to or not!

 

 

 

 

 

You probably still can find it in enamel if you know where to look. Try Scalehobbyist, Squadron, Sprue Brothers, Hobbylinc, etc...

 

I've found some Polly Scale colors (not the Floquil Railroad colors) and the harder to find Humbrol colors in SprueBrothers site. There's no way I was going to pass up on those.

SoD Stitch

I second all of the modelers who say they only use enamels; in particular, I've been using MM enamels exclusively (well, except for one or two bottles of MM acryls) for the last 30 years (ever since Pactra stopped making enamels; anyone else remember them?). I agree, enamels tend to go on better than acryls, and they are definitely more durable than acrylics but, unfortunately, Testors dropped about 25% of their enamel line last year after they got bought out by Rustoleum (including Armor Sand, one of my favorites, Pale Green, and SAC Bomber Tan). I contacted Testors/Rustoleum about the colors getting dropped, and they said they still make them, but only in acrylics. So, I guess I'll eventually be using MM Acryls, whether I want to or not!

 

You probably still can find it in enamel if you know where to look. Try Scalehobbyist, Squadron, Sprue Brothers, Hobbylinc, etc...

I second all of the modelers who say they only use enamels; in particular, I've been using MM enamels exclusively (well, except for one or two bottles of MM acryls) for the last 30 years (ever since Pactra stopped making enamels; anyone else remember them?). I agree, enamels tend to go on better than acryls, and they are definitely more durable than acrylics but, unfortunately, Testors dropped about 25% of their enamel line last year after they got bought out by Rustoleum (including Armor Sand, one of my favorites, Pale Green, and SAC Bomber Tan). I contacted Testors/Rustoleum about the colors getting dropped, and they said they still make them, but only in acrylics. So, I guess I'll eventually be using MM Acryls, whether I want to or not!

I use MM gloss black to undercoat Alclad.  Works fine.  With the Alclad polished aluminum, I have had comments that polished aluminum never really looked that good (not really true).  I use Testors enamels for everything except the NMF where I use Alclad.

stikpusher

I'm with Tex regarding MM and Humbrol enamels. Super results from both brands using the same method. And unless you are dead set on priming, you can skip that step with enamels on plastic. They have better adhesion properties than acrylics. And once dried and cured are far hardier against scratching and lifting when masking is pulled up. 

 

Yup! 

I'm with Tex regarding MM and Humbrol enamels. Super results from both brands using the same method. And unless you are dead set on priming, you can skip that step with enamels on plastic. They have better adhesion properties than acrylics. And once dried and cured are far hardier against scratching and lifting when masking is pulled up. 

I use enamels almost exclusively, Humbrol and MM mostly.  I think both are excellent paints but I use Testor's Airbrush Thinner for spraying both.  It seems to give the best results with fewest problems.  I clean up with regular paint store/hardware store paint thinner (mineral spirits).

Gary

I have used MM enamel for many years, like it very well and will continue it's use. Some recommend the exclusive use of the Testors Universal Thinner, it sure can't hurt anything, but I think it's a bit over priced. I use DuPont enamel thinner, works identically, many times less expensive.

MM doesn't seem overly critical with regard to thinning, I generally start with 2/3 paint to 1/3 thinner, adjusting from there. Often I might thin it up to 50/50.

For cleaning the airbrush following use, I clean thoroughly with paint store lacquer thinner. Use care, to ensure you don't allow material to enter the air valve behind the needle bearing. When I clean I hold the AB inverted and facing nose down. Nothing can enter the air valve that way.

Use MM with confidence, it's good stuff.

Patrick 

You will want to use Testors thinners for the MM enamels. I have tried other thinners, and haven't found any that played very well with it.

Here is a photo below I took with my Iphone .. The Tamiya mixer are found on the internet ..

Model Master perfect match no mixing .. Never used enamels

Thanks rick

Model Master Enamels are good paints. I have never used them over Alcad primer myself, but I doubt you will have any problems as long as you give the primer time to dry and cure. Just curious, but which paint scheme are you painting your 53 in? 

I have not used the Alclad primers yet, however I have used Tamiya liquid surface primer (which is lacquer based like the Alclad) and have sprayed MM Enamels over this primer with no issues. I will in the next couple of weeks be spraying the Black Alclad primer, then using MM Enamels on a Spitfire I'm working on. 

Hope this helps a little.