Primer directions

This is from the Tamiya USA website. Unfortunately, it doesnt answer your posted questions. However, synthetic lacquers appear to be similar in their mixtures to natural lacquers, except the synthetics are purported to be quicker drying.

Tamiya Metal Primer
Item 87061
Metallic parts like aluminum parts, photo-etched parts, die-cast parts and pressed parts increase realism and strength of plastic models. This is a handy spray can primer to treat metallic parts. It should be applied on metallic parts before paint and it will prevent paint from peeling off the model. As this transparent varnish (emphasis mine) does not dissolve plastic, you can apply it after assembly of metallic parts.

If you're interested, I found an MSDS from Far West Paint for their synthetic lacquer. Compositional makeup should be "somewhat similar" to Tamiya's offering:
http://www.farwestpaint.com/MSDS/X-4959.htm

Hope this helps a little.
Gip Winecoff

I was hoping you'd see this Gip, as always, thank you.

Gip,
Looks like it's outside and a respirator for me...Why wouldn't they add pigment of some sort? Transparent primer? Is this Tamiya's new invisible spray? Did they just sell me a can of propellant?

Ausf,
Lacquers are made up of pigments, binders, and plasticizers all suspended in some sort of solvent vehicle. Without the pigment, the binders and plasticizers are still there to provide some "tooth" and flexibility to the primer. The stuff sounds like a quick-drying plasticized varnish, that essentially provides a "glue" for the topcoat to stick to.

Sounds like outside with a respirator is a pretty good idea.

Gip Winecoff

I just thought some pigment would facilitate application. I don't want to have to see an overly wet surface to know where I'm spraying.

I've been having extremely good luck with Tamiyas primers lately - I wondered the same thing you did - i find that it seems pretty dry after only a couple hours. I generally let stuff go over- nite regardless. I've had really good luck painting over it with both testors and tamiya and after putting it up next to testors spray primer and gunzes I think Timaya is the clear winner in all my tests. as for temps - all paint SHOULD be applied at 70 Degrees and above for countless reasons. However 50 seems to be the safe Cool cut off for almost all brands i've come across. Good Luck I think you'll definitly be happy with the results.

jbatesc6,
Any problem/negative effect on plastic? These assemblies are a mix of both Aluminum, cast metal and plastic it would be an easier prime semi-assembled. Any trouble seeing coverage because it's clear?

Guess I mis understood your Question - I've never used the clear primer! I always take and experiment with new paints! let us know ow it went.

Well it went on today, I think. IT'S BLEEDIN' CLEAR! The only time you could see it was when it pooled. It's OK because it's only the lower hull for the 1/16 RC M4. But I blew the whole can on it and the assorted metal suspension parts. If it has good teeth then it's worth the $6.19 for a 1 square foot prime, if not.......
I'm going to let it rest for some time 'cause my Japanese is lacking, but I figure a week of curing should be OK. Just repeat after me ...CLEAR PRIMER?