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Primer directions

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, March 26, 2004 7:56 PM
Well it went on today, I think. IT'S BLEEDIN' CLEAR! The only time you could see it was when it pooled. It's OK because it's only the lower hull for the 1/16 RC M4. But I blew the whole can on it and the assorted metal suspension parts. If it has good teeth then it's worth the $6.19 for a 1 square foot prime, if not.......
I'm going to let it rest for some time 'cause my Japanese is lacking, but I figure a week of curing should be OK. Just repeat after me ...CLEAR PRIMER?
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Napa, Ca
Posted by DrCemento on Friday, March 26, 2004 4:57 PM
Guess I mis understood your Question - I've never used the clear primer! I always take and experiment with new paints! let us know ow it went.
Model builder formerly posting as jbatesc6
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 18, 2004 9:02 PM
jbatesc6,
Any problem/negative effect on plastic? These assemblies are a mix of both Aluminum, cast metal and plastic it would be an easier prime semi-assembled. Any trouble seeing coverage because it's clear?
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Napa, Ca
Posted by DrCemento on Thursday, March 18, 2004 8:15 PM
I've been having extremely good luck with Tamiyas primers lately - I wondered the same thing you did - i find that it seems pretty dry after only a couple hours. I generally let stuff go over- nite regardless. I've had really good luck painting over it with both testors and tamiya and after putting it up next to testors spray primer and gunzes I think Timaya is the clear winner in all my tests. as for temps - all paint SHOULD be applied at 70 Degrees and above for countless reasons. However 50 seems to be the safe Cool cut off for almost all brands i've come across. Good Luck I think you'll definitly be happy with the results.
Model builder formerly posting as jbatesc6
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 18, 2004 3:03 PM
I just thought some pigment would facilitate application. I don't want to have to see an overly wet surface to know where I'm spraying.
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: The flat lands of the Southeast
Posted by styrene on Thursday, March 18, 2004 1:06 PM
Ausf,
Lacquers are made up of pigments, binders, and plasticizers all suspended in some sort of solvent vehicle. Without the pigment, the binders and plasticizers are still there to provide some "tooth" and flexibility to the primer. The stuff sounds like a quick-drying plasticized varnish, that essentially provides a "glue" for the topcoat to stick to.

Sounds like outside with a respirator is a pretty good idea.

Gip Winecoff

1882: "God is dead"--F. Nietzsche

1900: "Nietzsche is dead"--God

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 18, 2004 11:36 AM
Gip,
Looks like it's outside and a respirator for me...Why wouldn't they add pigment of some sort? Transparent primer? Is this Tamiya's new invisible spray? Did they just sell me a can of propellant?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 18, 2004 11:27 AM
I was hoping you'd see this Gip, as always, thank you.
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: The flat lands of the Southeast
Posted by styrene on Thursday, March 18, 2004 11:21 AM
This is from the Tamiya USA website. Unfortunately, it doesnt answer your posted questions. However, synthetic lacquers appear to be similar in their mixtures to natural lacquers, except the synthetics are purported to be quicker drying.

Tamiya Metal Primer
Item 87061
Metallic parts like aluminum parts, photo-etched parts, die-cast parts and pressed parts increase realism and strength of plastic models. This is a handy spray can primer to treat metallic parts. It should be applied on metallic parts before paint and it will prevent paint from peeling off the model. As this transparent varnish (emphasis mine) does not dissolve plastic, you can apply it after assembly of metallic parts.

If you're interested, I found an MSDS from Far West Paint for their synthetic lacquer. Compositional makeup should be "somewhat similar" to Tamiya's offering:
http://www.farwestpaint.com/MSDS/X-4959.htm

Hope this helps a little.
Gip Winecoff

1882: "God is dead"--F. Nietzsche

1900: "Nietzsche is dead"--God

  • Member since
    November 2005
Primer directions
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, March 18, 2004 10:33 AM
Just got Tamiya Metal Primer (spray can) from tower hobbies. Directions are only in japanese, anyone have 'em english? Need to know drying time, lowest temp and full cure time if possible. Tower listed this as 'synthetic laquer' and I don't know if it's any different.
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