Most hated color?

Oh, wow, all this name-dropping stuff leaves me crawling at my knees-Oh  sorry, gotta get back up and huurry to go to "drain the radiator" first!!!!!

*BACK*!

OK, when I get the time, I will show my built model cars too, maybe.

Now, you gotta check out your lower jaw problem for a possible nerve disorder(Neurogilist stuff) first, OK?

Lesee, how's go, "Talk is cheap", "Actions Speak Louder Then Words", or "A Picture is Worth a Thousand Words"-You pick

Phil Flory often lays down a mini-primer of gray underneath colors like white or yellow - that would sure help. If you want coverage with white get Golden High Flow Titantium White - it covers extremely well. Golden paints have more details on coverage than model paints and if you want a yellow that's as opaque as High Flow carbon black, I think you have to break a law of physics. Anyway, I'd think a gray undercoat would help a lot and require far fewer coats.

Sure won't quibble with Don. Those ultra-gloss finishes found on some cars are jaw dropping - a craft of its own. Check the YouTube videos of Paul Buzik - especially the ones about primers. Buzik models on a different planet from yours truly, but there are a blizzard of fascinating ideas in his "Outside the Box" videos and website.

Eric

Hey Don, Real G, as for yellow, it can be a three-step process:

To add to Blacksheep's mention,

1. If you're not already there, first you go to a flat light grey, as a primer. If the kit is already light grey, but a shiney finish. make it dull with a fine-grade sand-paper.
2. Then you go to a flat white, as a second undercoat.
3. Then I go to a flat yellow because it dries faster, and it doesn't hurt to sand any areas where the paint may have gotten "lumpy".

Then if I want a gloss finish, I clear-coat it.

The two-step priming keeps a dark color, like the Forrest Green of the old ITC Martin B-2, from bleeding through the top wing's yellow finish.

Now notice, if you want to stop with white, or a light grey, but want a gloss finish, then simply clear-coat the flat color.

That also generally takes care of all my gloss-paints issue for water-based acrylics including the light-grey fuselage of the Sparrow Hawk kit I built from a Williams Bros. kit, many years ago that was molded in white.

By the way, for black, maybe you should try flat-black+clear-coat.

Cool mom!

modelmaker66

 

 

mississippivol

Tain't the same since they removed the lead.

 

 

 

 

Removed it from the paint or from you?

 

 

  I was a high school student, maybe a Junior or so, when Mom served spinach one evening.  I didn't take any and she told me, "Aww, go ahead and eat some son; it'll put lead in your pencil!" 

My reply?  "But Mom, I don't have anyone to write to." 

Gary

mississippivol

Tain't the same since they removed the lead.

 

Day-glo red/orange!  The paint itself is weird - it covers poorly and dries really slow.

Second in line is gloss as others have mentioned.  I have yet to get a smooth gloss finish that I was happy with.

Third is yellow, due to poor coverage.

Fourth is natural metal, although I have gotten satisfactory results.

For those who use Tamiya acrylics, the flat red seems to have exceptionally good covering characteristics.  I obliterated a Dr.1's camouflage finish while attempting to overspray it red.

I think getting the best achieved results for yellow is white primer. I think the same can be for red.

As far as getting glossy coats on autos, I use rattle can gloss paint in several light coats. Yeah another trick I do is stick the can of spray paint under hot water until the can is hot to the touch. Dangerous and foolish? Maybe but I still have all my fingers. LOL!

Again, I'm not too fussy with gloss coat I get as long as I'm satisfied.

Hyper- I don't recall using white ,so I haven't had that experience yet. I have the same problem with clear coats though, especially gloss clears.

BlackSheep- Yellow is tough, I just keep putting layer on layer. That's how the red I was using yesterday acted. First layer was almost pink! I ran and grabbed my wifes hair dryer and quickly "dry-spray,dry-spray" till it finally got the full red I was looking for.

Don-I can jump on board the no gloss-modelled car train. I just haven't gotten proficient enough with the airbrush ye,t I guess. I am working on a NMF T-33A and sprayed Vallejo's Gloss Black Primer and it is looking pretty decent. I should be done with it in the next couple days. When I'm done I'll post some pics.

I have had troubles with yellow, both flat and gloss, because it does not seem to cover well- be opaque enough.  But my worst color is a gloss black.  It is hard to get really perfect with zero imperfections.  I have to touch up and redo a lot.  It is really important if it is a base for Alclad.  Alclad really shows up every imperfection in the undercoat.

Even if not an undercoat, a gloss black shows every little nit and flaw.

In fact, gloss finishes of just about any color are harder than flats. I have had modeling friends tell me they do not build airliners, nor car models, because of how hard it is to do gloss paints.

Well, I've always heard white and yellow seem to be the most difficult color to lay down with an airbrush. I've never had trouble with yellow; I haven't tried airbrushing white yet.

You mean, besides white? White never seems to cover well, and I have to thin it way down to get a fine spray. Of course it varies by brand. In theory, titanium white pigment can be quite opaque due to the way it refracts light. But I guess hobby paint makers don't grind it fine enough or something. IDK.

I also hate spraying any clear coat. I have trouble seeing the paint as I lay it down so it's hard for me to gauge a proper coat.