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Hunbrol paint questions

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  • Member since
    January, 2017
  • From: Colorado Springs
Hunbrol paint questions
Posted by mawright20 on Monday, November 20, 2017 9:00 AM

 

Question for anyone with the experience using Humbrol paints.  I'm building a P-40 kit using Humbrol paintss for the first time. It seems like it’s thicker than MM paints for brush use, as well as I’ve been unable to thin it out well enough to use in my Iwata CN airbrush. The other MAJOR problem I’m having is that the paint isn’t sticking well and often coming off under the tape. I did normal prep: wash, dry, prime witjh MM grey primer, etc. I ended up free-hand painting it with a brush. Any thoughts or advice are appreciated.   Mike

 

  • Member since
    January, 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Monday, November 20, 2017 11:56 AM

Try using Humbrol brand thinner. Also, are you using their enamel or acrylic line? Word has it Humbrol acrylics suck.

  • Member since
    January, 2017
  • From: Colorado Springs
Posted by mawright20 on Monday, November 20, 2017 12:19 PM
Acrylics. Thanks for the head’s up...I don’t have the thinner in my current location. Will try again when getting back to the states
  • Member since
    May, 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Tuesday, November 21, 2017 2:24 AM

Hello!

I'm using Humbrol enamels for like 28 years now... The formulation has changed a bit since then, but those paints were always pretty tolerant as to the cleanliness of the surface you put them on - I mean some minor mold release or fingerprints on the plastic are not really a problem. Apart from the Humbrol thinner the enamels can also be thinned with Model Master or Revell enamel thinner, even lighter fluid in a pinch (that can change the colour of the paint, though). You could also do some experimenting and try some hardware store stuff (would be a lot cheaper, but I can't tell you exactly what - some sort of turpentine).

As for acrylics - a coat of good primer is essential here. I can recommend Tamiya primer in a spray can here - my favourite.

Hope it helps, have a nice day

Paweł

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

  • Member since
    January, 2017
  • From: Colorado Springs
Posted by mawright20 on Tuesday, November 21, 2017 3:48 AM
Thanks Pawel, I’ll see what I can find to try it.
  • Member since
    May, 2013
Posted by Snibs on Tuesday, November 21, 2017 4:51 AM

Pawel.

I have used hardware and auto enamel thinners for a lot years without issue, I prefer it over the Humbrol thinner and yes it's far cheaper.

Never used Humbrol acrylics, much prefer enamels.

Mick.

My airbrush and modeling page.

Two cheap spray booths compared, the BD-512 and HS-E420DC

On The Bench.

USS Voyager.

F/A-18A. 

 

  • Member since
    April, 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by keavdog on Tuesday, November 21, 2017 5:05 AM

 

I've used humbrol for years - but only the enamels, didn't even know they had acrylics.  I had a similar experience when using Mr Color for the first time instead of Gunze.  My issue was the thinner.   I thin all enamels with laquer thinner, and all acrylics with isopropyl alcohol.  My assumption was the Mr Color paints were the same as the Gunze which was wrong which = disaster. 

 

I like enamels, lacquers and acrylics - as a matter of fact I think the best dead flat comes from acrylics.  But knowing what kind of paint and which thinner makes all the difference in the world.

 

BTW I also had an issue recently where a vacuform canopy turned out to be polycarbonate/lexan which requires yet another special paint and thinner...

So - when using a new/different paint I'm ALWAYS shooting on a test piece.

BTW just ordered my first bottle of Vallejo airbrush ready paint...

  • Member since
    January, 2010
  • From: Saskatchewan Canada
Posted by RichfromSask on Tuesday, November 21, 2017 10:22 PM

Snibs

Pawel.

I have used hardware and auto enamel thinners for a lot years without issue, I prefer it over the Humbrol thinner and yes it's far cheaper.

Never used Humbrol acrylics, much prefer enamels.

Mick.

 

I second this opinion.  Have always used low-odour hardware store thinner and never had an issue with mixing.  Now I use Vallejo acrylics almost exclusively as I want a safer alternative.

  • Member since
    September, 2016
Posted by Retired In Kalifornia on Wednesday, November 22, 2017 12:07 AM

In 1965 hand painted models with Testors "PLA" enamels & rattle cans, late 1966 began using the Binks Wren, by mid-1967 was spraying on Pactra WWII formula mix camouflage enamels. By 1967 Floquil WWII formula mix lacquer paints were on the market, began using some of them before quitting the hobby for the first time - the "last" model c. February 1969 was an Airfix B-29 night bomber in Floquil Aluminum & Flat Black, gastly looking thing indeed it was!

Resuming the hobby in earnest late 1978 returned to Pactra WWII formula mixes quickly followed by Testors Model Master enamels. Humbrol had their own WWII formula mix enamels then so after coming across an IPMS-USA magazine article of Regia Aeronautica Italia camouflage mixes based on Humbrol paints in 1982 began using them. I'd also sprayed with Floquil paints though were difficult to work with, i.e. dried out quickly, second Revell Focke-Wulf 200 build with Floquil RLM 72, 73, 65 in 1981 came out less than satisfactory.

Pactra paints weren't satisfactory also so quit using them about when I'd started using Humbrol enamels, easier to spray on than the Pactras & Model Masters they were, by end of 1992 when I'd quit the hobby for the second time mostly was using Humbrols.

Today I use Humbrol enamels for my Regia Aeronautica Italia models in combination with Testors Flat Enamels in 1/4 ounce bottles well as Model Masters; "red can" Testors Universal Enamel Thinner has served me well over the last 13 years of continuous model building, hopefully will be able to continue buying enamel paints & thinners up till when I "retire" from the hobby sometime in the next decade most likely.

  • Member since
    November, 2017
Posted by NewGuy83 on Wednesday, November 22, 2017 12:59 PM

Hello, 

Wanted to chime in on this. I just got back into models and started with an airfix kit that came with humbrol acrylics. 

I can speak to the brush painting portion of your post as I do not have an airbrush. I use water to thin out the paint. I mix it into those little those artist plasitc paint mixer holders. I mix it to the consistency of when I "drag" the paint up the side of the holder, it "falls" back down without leaving any streaks. 

I then brush it on. Wait 10 - 15 mins, brush on a second coat, wait 10-15 mins, and brush on a third coat. I found that it takes three coats to properly cover what I am painitng. The first coat barely covers the model, but I found less is more.  I also alternate brush stroke directions each time and in the end, there are no brush strokes. 

As far as the painting peeling, I do not have the issue with Tamyia tape. I tried masking tape and it pulled up the paint, but the tamiya tape doesnt. I make sure that I let he paint dry atleast 24 hours before putting tape on it. 

I am by no means an expert, but just wanted to chime in with what has been working for me.

 

Edit - Words

  • Member since
    January, 2017
  • From: Colorado Springs
Posted by mawright20 on Friday, November 24, 2017 5:51 AM
Newguy83, thanks for giving your inputs. Since I’m working on a 2-plane Airfix kit that come with acrylics, I’ll use ur method and report back on results. mike
  • Member since
    January, 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Friday, November 24, 2017 8:53 AM

Whatever you do, DO NOT use regular masking tape for masking. Use Tamiya tape or even yellow Frog painter tape (they have the same tackiness as Tamiya tape)

  • Member since
    November, 2017
Posted by NewGuy83 on Wednesday, November 29, 2017 11:30 AM

No problem - hope it works out. 

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