Hunbrol paint questions

No problem - hope it works out. 

Whatever you do, DO NOT use regular masking tape for masking. Use Tamiya tape or even yellow Frog painter tape (they have the same tackiness as Tamiya tape)

Hello, 

Wanted to chime in on this. I just got back into models and started with an airfix kit that came with humbrol acrylics. 

I can speak to the brush painting portion of your post as I do not have an airbrush. I use water to thin out the paint. I mix it into those little those artist plasitc paint mixer holders. I mix it to the consistency of when I "drag" the paint up the side of the holder, it "falls" back down without leaving any streaks. 

I then brush it on. Wait 10 - 15 mins, brush on a second coat, wait 10-15 mins, and brush on a third coat. I found that it takes three coats to properly cover what I am painitng. The first coat barely covers the model, but I found less is more.  I also alternate brush stroke directions each time and in the end, there are no brush strokes. 

As far as the painting peeling, I do not have the issue with Tamyia tape. I tried masking tape and it pulled up the paint, but the tamiya tape doesnt. I make sure that I let he paint dry atleast 24 hours before putting tape on it. 

I am by no means an expert, but just wanted to chime in with what has been working for me.

Edit - Words

Snibs

Pawel.

I have used hardware and auto enamel thinners for a lot years without issue, I prefer it over the Humbrol thinner and yes it's far cheaper.

Never used Humbrol acrylics, much prefer enamels.

Mick.

 

I second this opinion.  Have always used low-odour hardware store thinner and never had an issue with mixing.  Now I use Vallejo acrylics almost exclusively as I want a safer alternative.

I've used humbrol for years - but only the enamels, didn't even know they had acrylics.  I had a similar experience when using Mr Color for the first time instead of Gunze.  My issue was the thinner.   I thin all enamels with laquer thinner, and all acrylics with isopropyl alcohol.  My assumption was the Mr Color paints were the same as the Gunze which was wrong which = disaster. 

I like enamels, lacquers and acrylics - as a matter of fact I think the best dead flat comes from acrylics.  But knowing what kind of paint and which thinner makes all the difference in the world.

BTW I also had an issue recently where a vacuform canopy turned out to be polycarbonate/lexan which requires yet another special paint and thinner...

So - when using a new/different paint I'm ALWAYS shooting on a test piece.

BTW just ordered my first bottle of Vallejo airbrush ready paint...

Pawel.

I have used hardware and auto enamel thinners for a lot years without issue, I prefer it over the Humbrol thinner and yes it's far cheaper.

Never used Humbrol acrylics, much prefer enamels.

Mick.

Hello!

I'm using Humbrol enamels for like 28 years now... The formulation has changed a bit since then, but those paints were always pretty tolerant as to the cleanliness of the surface you put them on - I mean some minor mold release or fingerprints on the plastic are not really a problem. Apart from the Humbrol thinner the enamels can also be thinned with Model Master or Revell enamel thinner, even lighter fluid in a pinch (that can change the colour of the paint, though). You could also do some experimenting and try some hardware store stuff (would be a lot cheaper, but I can't tell you exactly what - some sort of turpentine).

As for acrylics - a coat of good primer is essential here. I can recommend Tamiya primer in a spray can here - my favourite.

Hope it helps, have a nice day

Paweł

Try using Humbrol brand thinner. Also, are you using their enamel or acrylic line? Word has it Humbrol acrylics suck.