Painting black on an already black surface

If I was going to prime, I’d put down a flat black primer or base coat. And my top coat would be a gloss or semi gloss black coat for decals. There is enough tone dieffetence in the flat black between the plastic and top coat to spot any areas missed.

  That's a pretty good idea.  I hadn't thought of that.  I think I had tunnel vision from the fact that I only have two primers in my arsenal: white and grey.  

Eric

I’d use gray. I just don’t see that well and flat black is hard to see.

All are good replies/options. I can see the advantages and disadvantages of each. If I don't prime, that's one less step I have to do. One less round of airbrush cleaning. One less layer of covering that can hide the fine detail.

If I do prime with something, it'll help cover any minor imperfections or scratches I might leave behind from sanding and seam filling. Priming with a lighter color will also help me know that I'm covering the plane evenly with black paint.

Too many valid reasons to prime or not to prime! LOL!  I think I'll flip a coin, pick one technique, then report on the results.

Eric

I usually prime. It makes for better coverage and reduces runs on that first color coat.  When I do prime, I use the same primer (usually light gray) over everything.  Black covers quite well, never had a problem using black over light or white primers.

Don Stauffer

I usually prime. It makes for better coverage and reduces runs on that first color coat.  When I do prime, I use the same primer (usually light gray) over everything.  Black covers quite well, never had a problem using black over light or white primers.

 

GMorrison

 

Don Stauffer

I usually prime. It makes for better coverage and reduces runs on that first color coat.  When I do prime, I use the same primer (usually light gray) over everything.  Black covers quite well, never had a problem using black over light or white primers.

 

 

 

 

And add to that- Decals don't "pop" too well over black. If possible, when I build a model with dark finish colors such as WW2 camouflage, I mask the area of the future decal after a light primer.

 

 

Right. Most decals are a little translucent if they are thin. And thin is usually desirable.

If you look at the back of a decal when its removed from the paper, the printing on the face is usually visible. And it works the other way.

To me, the Holy Grail if you will on warplane models is painted markings. But thats hard to do if the markings are at all complex. 

I always scan every decal sheet from kits, for various reasons. Print the scan on paper. Lay down blue tape on the cutting mat in an area bigger than the marking. Tape the print down over that. Then cut the marking out, and the tape under it. Keep inside the border of the marking a tiny bit.

Put the tape piece on the model over white or gray primer and leave it through all of the painting steps, until time to apply decals. Remove the tape and place the decal over the white area.

Usually it will look much better.

GMorrison

Right. Most decals are a little translucent if they are thin. And thin is usually desirable.

If you look at the back of a decal when its removed from the paper, the printing on the face is usually visible. And it works the other way.

To me, the Holy Grail if you will on warplane models is painted markings. But thats hard to do if the markings are at all complex. 

I always scan every decal sheet from kits, for various reasons. Print the scan on paper. Lay down blue tape on the cutting mat in an area bigger than the marking. Tape the print down over that. Then cut the marking out, and the tape under it. Keep inside the border of the marking a tiny bit.

Put the tape piece on the model over white or gray primer and leave it through all of the painting steps, until time to apply decals. Remove the tape and place the decal over the white area.

Usually it will look much better.

 

GMorrison

Right. Most decals are a little translucent if they are thin. And thin is usually desirable.

If you look at the back of a decal when its removed from the paper, the printing on the face is usually visible. And it works the other way.

To me, the Holy Grail if you will on warplane models is painted markings. But thats hard to do if the markings are at all complex. 

I always scan every decal sheet from kits, for various reasons. Print the scan on paper. Lay down blue tape on the cutting mat in an area bigger than the marking. Tape the print down over that. Then cut the marking out, and the tape under it. Keep inside the border of the marking a tiny bit.

Put the tape piece on the model over white or gray primer and leave it through all of the painting steps, until time to apply decals. Remove the tape and place the decal over the white area.

Usually it will look much better.

 

The tape has been removed here but see where the decals will go.

That camo would surely show through the decal from underneath.

I'm sorry that this got a little off-topic, but I do think its important for a dark colored aircraft.