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To prime or not?

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  • Member since
    June, 2018
To prime or not?
Posted by ARDVARK003 on Thursday, August 23, 2018 7:45 PM

Hi all, hope everyone is well. I know this question has been asked before but I can't find it. I have always used primer, but recently I' ve washed rinsed and dryed, with good results, any thoughts? Model On!   AARDVARK         

  • Member since
    August, 2012
  • From: Parker City, IN.
Posted by Rambo on Thursday, August 23, 2018 8:07 PM
If you have mixed media on your kit like PE or resin it unifies the color and the primer helps the other paint stick to the PE. If your using enamel it ain't as necessary but with acrylic paint it's more of a issue to prime everything first.

Clint

  • Member since
    July, 2004
  • From: Sunny So. Cal... The OC
Posted by stikpusher on Thursday, August 23, 2018 9:16 PM

Exactly. It all depends upon your paints and your painting surface. It won’t hurt to prime in all cases. But on a strictly styrene surface using enamel paints, or the brands of acrylics that have better adhesion properties, priming is not a necessity. 

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    February, 2012
Posted by Liegghio on Thursday, August 23, 2018 10:55 PM

I prime everything that isn't being painted with either enamel or lacquer. Even in those instances I will prime if I had to do a lot of filling and sanding so I can make sure I have the surface right before I apply the final paint. My favorite was Floquil primers when I could still find them,  but there are still plenty of very fine primers that work but are thin enough to not obscure details. I still have a white metal 1/2500 Enterprise CV-6 that  I primed and painted with Floquil without loss of even the very fine detail of the hanger deck corrugated doors, or any lifting of paint. 

  • Member since
    September, 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Thursday, August 23, 2018 11:53 PM

I prime everything. Except PE.

It doesn't have to be the perfect opaque coat, but give yourself a level playing field.

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, August 24, 2018 7:04 AM

I especially prime PE!  I find painting more reliable than if I do not prime. I have always had good results when priming, but occasionly have problems if I didn't.  I do not prime for very small parts that I am brush painting.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    December, 2010
  • From: Salem, Oregon
Posted by 1943Mike on Wednesday, January 23, 2019 7:50 PM

I was just mulling over the same question to myself. Fortunately I found this thread. Looks like I'll go ahead and prime.

BTW, I'm using Tamiya acrylics plus at least two other types depending on the colors - (Vallejo Metal Color - aluminum, Vallejo Model Color - silver, and Model Master - wood).

I've thoroughly washed the sprue trees. In the past I've mostly just skipped the priming but I'm waiting for some aftermarket stuff on my 1/48 Supermarine Walrus from Airfix so I might as well spend some down time constructively.

Mike

"Le temps est un grand maître, mais malheureusement, il tue tous ses élèves."

Hector Berlioz

  • Member since
    November, 2018
Posted by oldermodelguy on Thursday, January 24, 2019 7:57 AM

1943Mike

I was just mulling over the same question to myself. Fortunately I found this thread. Looks like I'll go ahead and prime.

BTW, I'm using Tamiya acrylics plus at least two other types depending on the colors - (Vallejo Metal Color - aluminum, Vallejo Model Color - silver, and Model Master - wood).

I've thoroughly washed the sprue trees. In the past I've mostly just skipped the priming but I'm waiting for some aftermarket stuff on my 1/48 Supermarine Walrus from Airfix so I might as well spend some down time constructively.

 

Tamiya bonds pretty well to plastic but I still prime when I use it because it levels the surface and plastic colors, so the paint both gets good bond and has a good even base color under it. No surprises that way.

Model Master acrylic bonds beatifully to Stynylrez primer but not to styrene worth a dang. So here in my experience anyway, you need the primer for bond. You can let it sit two days to cure and scrape it off with your fingernail if you dig in a little with no primer. But it gives a good hard shell on the stynylrez.

In the end with acrylics it's best to just prime. Actually I use Stynylrez under nail polish finishes too, which is lacquer and under MM enamels as well..

Stynlrez they say you don't need to thin but I do thin it a little bit with my own home brew thinner ( Badger I believe indicates thinning not needed but if desired then use a little alcohol).

  • Member since
    May, 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Thursday, January 24, 2019 9:16 AM

I also prime everything. I got bit once with masking tape lift off situation on a paint job I had put lots of hours in. Never again,

I even prime fiddley bits becuase I used acrylics and it comes off too easily while handling.

And like Don, I definitely prime PE becuase looking at it can make acrylic paint come off.

My comments are regarding acrylics, I'm sure the folks commenting about priming not necessarily needed with certain lacquers and enamels are spot on. Still, I like a nice fine prime coat to see what I'm dealing with.

-Greg

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: NYC, USA
Posted by waikong on Thursday, January 24, 2019 10:25 AM
I always prime. You don't always need it, heck, depending on your medium you may only need it 10% of the time. But why take the chance? The effort to prime is really minimal - real primer settles really well. So cheap insurance in my mind. Besides, I use it to check my seams, so might as well kill 2 birds with 1 stone.
  • Member since
    December, 2010
  • From: Salem, Oregon
Posted by 1943Mike on Thursday, January 24, 2019 11:27 AM

Oldermodelguy,

Thanks for the reply to my post. I primed all the trees last night with Stynylrez gray (I have the gray, black, and white on hand).

Based on what Don and Greg have said I now will prime the PE for my current project as well when I receive the rest of it I've ordered. (I have the wing bomb bay PE and am waiting for the full set of interior PE).

Mike

"Le temps est un grand maître, mais malheureusement, il tue tous ses élèves."

Hector Berlioz

  • Member since
    November, 2008
  • From: Far Northern CA
Posted by mrmike on Thursday, January 24, 2019 11:36 AM

Ditto what Waikong posted. Priming shows up flaws at a point where they are easily corrected, and provides a nice tight base coat. I like Alclad Primer and Microfiller for airbrush and Tamiya Fine Surface Primer rattlecan for broad coverage, since I can spray lacquer based finishes in my detached shop.

 

  • Member since
    July, 2018
  • From: The Deep Woods
Posted by Tickmagnet on Friday, January 25, 2019 7:12 AM

I use Tamiya acrylics and always prime with stynilrez the only thing that may change is what color primer I use.

 

 

  • Member since
    May, 2013
  • From: From the Mit, but live in Mason, O high ho
Posted by hogfanfs on Friday, January 25, 2019 7:16 AM

Ditto, ditto what Waikong and Mrmike wrote...

 Bruce

 

 

  • Member since
    November, 2018
Posted by oldermodelguy on Friday, January 25, 2019 8:15 AM

1943Mike

Oldermodelguy,

Thanks for the reply to my post. I primed all the trees last night with Stynylrez gray (I have the gray, black, and white on hand).

Based on what Don and Greg have said I now will prime the PE for my current project as well when I receive the rest of it I've ordered. (I have the wing bomb bay PE and am waiting for the full set of interior PE).

 

I think you will be pleased with the Stynylrez and glad you primed.

I wish you all the best with your build !

  • Member since
    March, 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Friday, January 25, 2019 8:23 AM

Yes for multi media,especially resin

Yes for Vallejo

No for enamels

I like Mr Surfacer 1200 in the rattlecan or Tamiya Extra Fine

  • Member since
    November, 2018
Posted by oldermodelguy on Friday, January 25, 2019 9:34 AM

 I used to not prime for enamels at all. Then I discovered color shifting in lighter colors ( taking on the color cast of the plastic)because of the base plastic color illumination through the paint. Maybe not noticed so much till there are two different colors under the paint or two samples side by side with different base colors under them.. Anyone can test for this on some plastic spoons or sheet plastic etc... You might be surprised at the results between even white and medium gray, never mind blue or black plastic or color coat under light paints. Red plastic can send pale colors wonkers when tested next to the same paint sprayed over a light primer or white primer. Just sayin.

  • Member since
    March, 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Friday, January 25, 2019 9:52 AM

oldermodelguy

 I used to not prime for enamels at all. Then I discovered color shifting in lighter colors ( taking on the color cast of the plastic)because of the base plastic color illumitation through the paint. Maybe not noticed so much till there are two different colors under the paint or two samples side by side with different base colors under them.. Anyone can test for this on some plastic spoons or sheet plastic etc... You might be surprised at the results between even white and medium gray, never mind blue or black plastic or color coat under light paints. Red plastic can send pale colors wonkers when tested next to the same paint sprayed over a light primer or white primer. Just sayin.

 

True on that,especially if the plastic is way diffrent then my paint.

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