To prime or not?

oldermodelguy

 I used to not prime for enamels at all. Then I discovered color shifting in lighter colors ( taking on the color cast of the plastic)because of the base plastic color illumitation through the paint. Maybe not noticed so much till there are two different colors under the paint or two samples side by side with different base colors under them.. Anyone can test for this on some plastic spoons or sheet plastic etc... You might be surprised at the results between even white and medium gray, never mind blue or black plastic or color coat under light paints. Red plastic can send pale colors wonkers when tested next to the same paint sprayed over a light primer or white primer. Just sayin.

 

True on that,especially if the plastic is way diffrent then my paint.

 I used to not prime for enamels at all. Then I discovered color shifting in lighter colors ( taking on the color cast of the plastic)because of the base plastic color illumination through the paint. Maybe not noticed so much till there are two different colors under the paint or two samples side by side with different base colors under them.. Anyone can test for this on some plastic spoons or sheet plastic etc... You might be surprised at the results between even white and medium gray, never mind blue or black plastic or color coat under light paints. Red plastic can send pale colors wonkers when tested next to the same paint sprayed over a light primer or white primer. Just sayin.

Yes for multi media,especially resin

Yes for Vallejo

No for enamels

I like Mr Surfacer 1200 in the rattlecan or Tamiya Extra Fine

1943Mike

Oldermodelguy,

Thanks for the reply to my post. I primed all the trees last night with Stynylrez gray (I have the gray, black, and white on hand).

Based on what Don and Greg have said I now will prime the PE for my current project as well when I receive the rest of it I've ordered. (I have the wing bomb bay PE and am waiting for the full set of interior PE).

 

I think you will be pleased with the Stynylrez and glad you primed.

I wish you all the best with your build !

Ditto, ditto what Waikong and Mrmike wrote...

I use Tamiya acrylics and always prime with stynilrez the only thing that may change is what color primer I use.

Ditto what Waikong posted. Priming shows up flaws at a point where they are easily corrected, and provides a nice tight base coat. I like Alclad Primer and Microfiller for airbrush and Tamiya Fine Surface Primer rattlecan for broad coverage, since I can spray lacquer based finishes in my detached shop.

Oldermodelguy,

Thanks for the reply to my post. I primed all the trees last night with Stynylrez gray (I have the gray, black, and white on hand).

Based on what Don and Greg have said I now will prime the PE for my current project as well when I receive the rest of it I've ordered. (I have the wing bomb bay PE and am waiting for the full set of interior PE).

I also prime everything. I got bit once with masking tape lift off situation on a paint job I had put lots of hours in. Never again,

I even prime fiddley bits becuase I used acrylics and it comes off too easily while handling.

And like Don, I definitely prime PE becuase looking at it can make acrylic paint come off.

My comments are regarding acrylics, I'm sure the folks commenting about priming not necessarily needed with certain lacquers and enamels are spot on. Still, I like a nice fine prime coat to see what I'm dealing with.

1943Mike

I was just mulling over the same question to myself. Fortunately I found this thread. Looks like I'll go ahead and prime.

BTW, I'm using Tamiya acrylics plus at least two other types depending on the colors - (Vallejo Metal Color - aluminum, Vallejo Model Color - silver, and Model Master - wood).

I've thoroughly washed the sprue trees. In the past I've mostly just skipped the priming but I'm waiting for some aftermarket stuff on my 1/48 Supermarine Walrus from Airfix so I might as well spend some down time constructively.

 

Tamiya bonds pretty well to plastic but I still prime when I use it because it levels the surface and plastic colors, so the paint both gets good bond and has a good even base color under it. No surprises that way.

Model Master acrylic bonds beatifully to Stynylrez primer but not to styrene worth a dang. So here in my experience anyway, you need the primer for bond. You can let it sit two days to cure and scrape it off with your fingernail if you dig in a little with no primer. But it gives a good hard shell on the stynylrez.

In the end with acrylics it's best to just prime. Actually I use Stynylrez under nail polish finishes too, which is lacquer and under MM enamels as well..

Stynlrez they say you don't need to thin but I do thin it a little bit with my own home brew thinner ( Badger I believe indicates thinning not needed but if desired then use a little alcohol).

I was just mulling over the same question to myself. Fortunately I found this thread. Looks like I'll go ahead and prime.

BTW, I'm using Tamiya acrylics plus at least two other types depending on the colors - (Vallejo Metal Color - aluminum, Vallejo Model Color - silver, and Model Master - wood).

I've thoroughly washed the sprue trees. In the past I've mostly just skipped the priming but I'm waiting for some aftermarket stuff on my 1/48 Supermarine Walrus from Airfix so I might as well spend some down time constructively.

I especially prime PE!  I find painting more reliable than if I do not prime. I have always had good results when priming, but occasionly have problems if I didn't.  I do not prime for very small parts that I am brush painting.

I prime everything. Except PE.

It doesn't have to be the perfect opaque coat, but give yourself a level playing field.

I prime everything that isn't being painted with either enamel or lacquer. Even in those instances I will prime if I had to do a lot of filling and sanding so I can make sure I have the surface right before I apply the final paint. My favorite was Floquil primers when I could still find them,  but there are still plenty of very fine primers that work but are thin enough to not obscure details. I still have a white metal 1/2500 Enterprise CV-6 that  I primed and painted with Floquil without loss of even the very fine detail of the hanger deck corrugated doors, or any lifting of paint. 

Exactly. It all depends upon your paints and your painting surface. It won’t hurt to prime in all cases. But on a strictly styrene surface using enamel paints, or the brands of acrylics that have better adhesion properties, priming is not a necessity.