If you’re planning to use enamels or oils for your weathering washes and such, and acrylic gloss coat is best. The thinners for either product will usually attack a non acrylic gloss coat.

I am not a "weatherer" but I do use Testors Spray can Lacquers; Matte or Dulcote, Semi-gloss, and Gloss.  I have painted Acrylics overtop, and wiped off mistakes on the gloss coat, with no problems.

My favorite is Testors Lusterless Flat Lacquer Clear coat for a final finish.  I'm sure some other folks will add more recommendations.

       Nino

For non acrylic,I like the Alclad stuff

But do n ote, the above advice includes that you'll then need to weather with media that is NOT solvent based or thinned. Acrylic paint, india ink, powders, etc.

Lets simplify this— I prime my model with Vallejo grey.  Paint with Tamiya, dark yellow, red brown and Olive green.  I put on the decals.  Then use Vallejo Acrylic Gloss coat.  Once dry I use oils and tamiya panel wash. I coat with Vallejo matte varnish then use AK dry mud and light mud. 

Model completed

Models32466

Lets simplify this— I prime my model with Vallejo grey.  Paint with Tamiya, dark yellow, red brown and Olive green.  I put on the decals.  Then use Vallejo Acrylic Gloss coat.  Once dry I use oils and tamiya panel wash. I coat with Vallejo matte varnish then use AK dry mud and light mud. 

Model completed

 

No,the Vallejo gloss goes on before the decals to give a smooth gloss base for the decals,then you can hit it with another gloss coat to seal the decals,then you may carry on as you stated.

Models32466

Paint with Tamiya, dark yellow, red brown and Olive green. I put on the decals. Then use Vallejo Acrylic Gloss coat.

Gloss coat before applying decals to prevent silvering. 

Thank you—I will try this on my M3 Stuart tomorrow. Just finished priming it!  Olive Drab- a little modulation-gloss decals gloss- oil wash- matte mud

Simple!LOL. Now watch me mes this up

If i were to add filter it goes on after oil and wash correct

I use Testors lacquer clearcoats before decal application, and before weathering with a solvent wash.  I know this seems to be a no-no, but it seems to work okay as long as the paint is thoroughly dry.

Tojo72

I prefer to do a filter after the decals and the flat coat before the washes.

 

it makes sense to tie it all together that way. But don’t dot filters work better on a matt surface as their is more ”tooth” for them to grab onto that way? I have not done dot filters myself.

I just shot Tamiya X-22 50:50 with laquer thinners over my current build and it went down a treat.

Can use turps or artist thinners with no effect, but not isopropyl.

I tried several type of finishes but this is the best for me so far.

stikpusher

 

 

Tojo72

I prefer to do a filter after the decals and the flat coat before the washes.

 

 

 

 

it makes sense to tie it all together that way. But don’t dot filters work better on a matt surface as their is more ”tooth” for them to grab onto that way? I have not done dot filters myself.

 

Yes,you are right,I was thinking of the Mig type filters,they both work better on matte.