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Gloss and Matte Finish

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  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Sunday, December 16, 2018 3:17 PM

stikpusher

 

 
Tojo72
I prefer to do a filter after the decals and the flat coat before the washes.
 

 

 

it makes sense to tie it all together that way. But don’t dot filters work better on a matt surface as their is more ”tooth” for them to grab onto that way? I have not done dot filters myself.

 

Yes,you are right,I was thinking of the Mig type filters,they both work better on matte.

  • Member since
    January 2017
Posted by damouav on Sunday, December 16, 2018 1:18 PM

I just shot Tamiya X-22 50:50 with laquer thinners over my current build and it went down a treat.

Can use turps or artist thinners with no effect, but not isopropyl.

I tried several type of finishes but this is the best for me so far.

In Progress
1/48 Tamiya P47-D Bubbletop
1/48 Hobby Boss TBF-1C Avenger (on hold)
Pending
1/48 Roden S.E.5a
1/48 Airfix Walrus
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Sunday, December 16, 2018 9:11 AM

Tojo72
I prefer to do a filter after the decals and the flat coat before the washes.
 

it makes sense to tie it all together that way. But don’t dot filters work better on a matt surface as their is more ”tooth” for them to grab onto that way? I have not done dot filters myself.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Sunday, December 16, 2018 6:33 AM

I use Testors lacquer clearcoats before decal application, and before weathering with a solvent wash.  I know this seems to be a no-no, but it seems to work okay as long as the paint is thoroughly dry.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Saturday, December 15, 2018 7:22 PM
I prefer to do a filter after the decals and the flat coat before the washes.

  • Member since
    November 2018
Posted by Models32466 on Saturday, December 15, 2018 6:57 PM

Thank you—I will try this on my M3 Stuart tomorrow. Just finished priming it!  Olive Drab- a little modulation-gloss decals gloss- oil wash- matte mud

Simple!LOL. Now watch me mes this up

If i were to add filter it goes on after oil and wash correct

Splatter, Clog, Clean Nozzle, Repeat!

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Saturday, December 15, 2018 6:26 PM

Models32466
Paint with Tamiya, dark yellow, red brown and Olive green. I put on the decals. Then use Vallejo Acrylic Gloss coat.

Gloss coat before applying decals to prevent silvering. 

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Saturday, December 15, 2018 6:24 PM

Models32466

Lets simplify this— I prime my model with Vallejo grey.  Paint with Tamiya, dark yellow, red brown and Olive green.  I put on the decals.  Then use Vallejo Acrylic Gloss coat.  Once dry I use oils and tamiya panel wash. I coat with Vallejo matte varnish then use AK dry mud and light mud. 

Model completed

 

No,the Vallejo gloss goes on before the decals to give a smooth gloss base for the decals,then you can hit it with another gloss coat to seal the decals,then you may carry on as you stated.

  • Member since
    November 2018
Posted by Models32466 on Saturday, December 15, 2018 5:54 PM

Lets simplify this— I prime my model with Vallejo grey.  Paint with Tamiya, dark yellow, red brown and Olive green.  I put on the decals.  Then use Vallejo Acrylic Gloss coat.  Once dry I use oils and tamiya panel wash. I coat with Vallejo matte varnish then use AK dry mud and light mud. 

Model completed

Splatter, Clog, Clean Nozzle, Repeat!

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Saturday, December 15, 2018 3:37 PM

But do n ote, the above advice includes that you'll then need to weather with media that is NOT solvent based or thinned. Acrylic paint, india ink, powders, etc.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Saturday, December 15, 2018 3:16 PM

For non acrylic,I like the Alclad stuff

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Philadelphia Pa
Posted by Nino on Saturday, December 15, 2018 2:14 PM

I am not a "weatherer" but I do use Testors Spray can Lacquers; Matte or Dulcote, Semi-gloss, and Gloss.  I have painted Acrylics overtop, and wiped off mistakes on the gloss coat, with no problems.

My favorite is Testors Lusterless Flat Lacquer Clear coat for a final finish.  I'm sure some other folks will add more recommendations.

   

       Nino

    

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Saturday, December 15, 2018 2:04 PM

If you’re planning to use enamels or oils for your weathering washes and such, and acrylic gloss coat is best. The thinners for either product will usually attack a non acrylic gloss coat.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    November 2018
Gloss and Matte Finish
Posted by Models32466 on Saturday, December 15, 2018 1:46 PM

What NON acrylic base finish/varnish do i use to protect what I’ve already painted before I weather the model

Splatter, Clog, Clean Nozzle, Repeat!

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