Testor enamel questions

Fesan

 If i knew how to get imgur to display the photo correctly i would post it so you could see.

FWIW try signing up at postimage. They have a simple little tool there for posting images into sites

Hmmm... I use Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty. Easy to use and sand. Sanding meaning I simply use a wet q-tip or sponge. No sanding dust to worry about.

I don't need to see them, I know what knife digs look like lol !

Should define the “scratches“. They are spots near body lines my blade slipped and are deeper then i thought. Figured primer would of filled them in and boy was i wrong lol. If i knew how to get imgur to display the photo correctly i would post it so you could see.

I don't see why the Testors filler wouldn't work. If you can't find it squirt some of the Tamiya primer into a small plastic container and stir it around, let it sit, stir some more etc until it is a little looser than putty like ( you want to evaporate some of the thinner off). Then with a fine brush apply that to your scratches. When dry sand smooth. If it didn't quite fill them, repeat. With an airbrush you could then spot prime the area and scuff it all smooth.. With rattle can you may have to reprime ( not sure because I'm not there to see it).

What you want to do is what Mr Surfacer/ Primer 1000 is all about. Or even Tamiya lacquer primer in a bottle. One of the videos I posted the other day showed how to do this.

Hi;

 What I find works well for me is this .I use a darker shade of the same color for panel lines on cars .Just enough to make it SLIGHTLY visible. On anything else it matters not to me .

 Thinning also is selective .I buy new paint and thin it upon arriving home by one quarter of the bottle contents .I then store it after mixing well, for about a month in a cabinet . Airbrushing for autos and trucks is tricky sometimes I use basically a gloss wash to give a subtle " Ultra Light Shade" of the color I want.

      I used to use candy coats thinned 50% to achieve very light pastel colors . T.B.

Fesan

Either way been leaning towards my original choice of the iwata and getting the .5 needle to help with priming and the bodies. Later in life ill dabble in more air brushes once it looks like a toddler did not do the paint job

 

The .5 should do primer and glossy car paint fine.

Either way been leaning towards my original choice of the iwata and getting the .5 needle to help with priming and the bodies. Later in life ill dabble in more air brushes once it looks like a toddler did not do the paint job

Fesan

 

i do plan on doing armor and planes later on which seems to need the smaller needle i did plan to get either the badger or iwata (which will also get the .5 needle) and try it out. If i couldnt get the quality i am looking for in the body is when the pasche H would be considered more so.

 

There are several ways to do armor though. Masks and stencils, brushing, dry brushing to name a few. Not everyone gets a special airbrush for armor. A smaller needle and also double action brush is nice for free hand work. This is one simple example out of scores of them online: https://youtu.be/ewBXKjdlvhk

oldermodelguy

 I don't know that there is any particular magic going on with a Paasche H other than it's a pretty simple design that works and it's large nozzles are a natural for enamels etc.. With one of your other choices and the right needle you may well find you don't need the H. On the other hand if someone has an H and they mostly model cars they may well find they don't need anything more than the H. Just sayin.

 

Fesan

 

As for the airbrush i am a toss up between a badger patriot and iwata eclipse the more i research. In a few weeks might just add the pasche H to the arsenal for the bodies.

 

I don't know that there is any particular magic going on with a Paasche H other than it's a pretty simple design that works and it's large nozzles are a natural for enamels etc.. With one of your other choices and the right needle you may well find you don't need the H. On the other hand if someone has an H and they mostly model cars they may well find they don't need anything more than the H. Just sayin.

oldermodelguy

 

Be interesting to hear how you progress !

Did you ever resolve what airbrush you will buy into if you do that?

 

As for the airbrush i am a toss up between a badger patriot and iwata eclipse the more i research. In a few weeks might just add the pasche H to the arsenal for the bodies.

GMorrison

In particular with car bodies, dust will kill you. Take care to keep the car as dust free as possible for as long as you can after painting. This could be as simple as putting it in a clean box or bin with a lid.

 

They really should have a like button around here.

GMorrison

In particular with car bodies, dust will kill you. Take care to keep the car as dust free as possible for as long as you can after painting. This could be as simple as putting it in a clean box or bin with a lid.

 

That is sound advice. Nothing irks me than finding dust particles on a gloss coat. Simple remedy is find a cheap plastic bin at a dollar store. 

In particular with car bodies, dust will kill you. Take care to keep the car as dust free as possible for as long as you can after painting. This could be as simple as putting it in a clean box or bin with a lid.

Fesan

yes a basic stock one basically. First one i built i went exactly as the instructions where including color to just get a feel for the models again. This one trying to accent some of the body detail. Might leave the body in primer till after next week or two when the air brush will be on my steps when i come home from work one day.

 

Be interesting to hear how you progress !

Did you ever resolve what airbrush you will buy into if you do that?

oldermodelguy

 

 

Ya, hey rattle cans still do a great job as far as the paint goes. Is this build right from the kit, basically stock ?

 

Fesan

Think tonights the night ill finally start working on my new mustang and just take it nice and slow try to accent some details and just try to do an over all better job then the first one

 

Ya, hey rattle cans still do a great job as far as the paint goes. Is this build right from the kit, basically stock ?

Think tonights the night ill finally start working on my new mustang and just take it nice and slow try to accent some details and just try to do an over all better job then the first one

Fesan

 sorry the grandson failed the test

 

Thanks. The inspector was very nice but very strict, really strict. And really Brian wasn't quite ready imo, his parents prepped him and pushed him to go for this test and I got hooshcowed into bringing him because they both had to work. It is what it is and probably for the best in the long run. I'll be glad to take him out driving again so he can get this down in automatic fashion.

oldermodelguy

Missed a few posts, had to take my grandson on his drivers test. He failed. Drove fine but missed setting the handbrake on a hill and directional coming out of parallel parking, looking for blind spots besides using mirrors.

Anyway before we left for that I was going to suggest clips on a stick as well.

Tamiya surface Primer isn't complicated:  https://youtu.be/CdsBAkQcLu4

 

Missed a few posts, had to take my grandson on his drivers test. He failed. Drove fine but missed setting the handbrake on a hill and directional coming out of parallel parking, looking for blind spots besides using mirrors.

Anyway before we left for that I was going to suggest clips on a stick as well.

Tamiya surface Primer isn't complicated:  https://youtu.be/CdsBAkQcLu4

BlackSheepTwoOneFour

Heh... now things are starting to turn into a mushroom cloud and your head is spinning on a pivot. Slow down and take it slow with what product you should get, the best process (decanting for one), lacquer, enamel, acrylic, etc...

Granted, this is all new to you. Everybody has given you lots of different opinions and it shouldn’t be complicated for you to figure out what’s best for you and your budget. Start off with the basics. Try something new later on your next build.  

I go the simple route for primer Rustoleum brand primer in a rattle can. I’ve got in grey and white. Both are wet and dry sandable and goes down smooth.

I have a wide vareity of paints in my stash... Testors Model Master enamel and acrylics (most of my enamels were from my teen years and still good condition), Tamiya, Gunze, LifeColor, Aeromaster, a few PollyScale bottles, a few Humbrol enamels, Mission Model acrylicswhich I’m planning on adding more colors o my collection to replace some of the enamels. I’ve got my eye on a few AK Real Colors Im looking to add to my paint stash.

 

 

More than one way to skin a cat, as they say. I use alligator clips too. These work well when you can clip onto something that won’t be seen. I bought some through amazon that are attached to wires. They work great. Sometimes I take a piece of Tamiya masking tape and loop it onto itself, stickyside out. Then stick the piece to it. Sometimes I melt the  end of a spru and stick it to the hidden side of a piece. Different methods for different jobs.

BlackSheepTwoOneFour

 I’ve got my eye on a few AK Real Colors Im looking to add to my paint stash. 

Funny that you mention this. This is the lacquer based paint I was referring to. I ordered several of the standard colors to start with. I might do some testing today.

Bakster

 

 

oldermodelguy

Double sided tape on a sprue stick works sometimes. The foam type.

 

 

Good thinking. I have some of that tape, will have to remember that one.