Finishing Sequence

Lacquer and enamel are not the same thing.  They harden by separate methods.  Enamel is a slow hardening paint, lacquer is a very fast drying paint.

I don't seem to have problems with Vallejo Model air ( someone mentioned it's lousy paint). You just need to mix it well and make sure there is no dried crud in the dropper tip that you unkowingly mix into the paint. It's good to add a touch of thinner and retarder to the blend when you go to spray it. And that's about it. It lays down like satin imo and they have a ton of colors to work with... They have a pretty complete sytem of paints. And if it's going to be clear coated anyway then it's shell not being as hard as some others really doesn't matter at all ( the same can be said for automotive base coat clear coat systems and cars are out driving around in the elements). Always put it down over primed surfaces, same with Model Master acryl......

GMorrison

Here's my typical m/o for anything other than ships. I don't weather my ships except for the larger scale stuff.

Base colors- any and everything in combination.

Sealer coat- acrylic gloss clear like Future.

Decals.

Weathering- oil artists paints highly diluted in odorless Turpenoid.

Final coat- matte clear lacquer like Dull Coat.

 

 

Yup, those are pretty much the same order that I follow. Maybe some final weathering after the matte coat depending upon the subject.

Here's my typical m/o for anything other than ships. I don't weather my ships except for the larger scale stuff.

Base colors- any and everything in combination.

Sealer coat- acrylic gloss clear like Future.

Decals.

Weathering- oil artists paints highly diluted in odorless Turpenoid.

Final coat- matte clear lacquer like Dull Coat.

Allessio77

So, with my original example, since I have used acrylic paint for primer and color coat, I could use an acrilyc gloss clear coat before putting on decals and Panel Liner. Panel liner would then have to be oil based (Tamiya Panel Liner is!) and the final coat matt could then be acrylic? Or can the final coat be either acrylic or oil based?

I do also have a Vallejo Model Wash, but It appears to be water based, so that would NOT be a good panel wash on top of my Acrylic Gloss Clear coat?

 

(I think I am going to move to Tamiya Acrylics in the future, based on the comments)

 

You got it

In that case an acylic matte would be okay.

So, with my original example, since I have used acrylic paint for primer and color coat, I could use an acrilyc gloss clear coat before putting on decals and Panel Liner. Panel liner would then have to be oil based (Tamiya Panel Liner is!) and the final coat matt could then be acrylic? Or can the final coat be either acrylic or oil based?

I do also have a Vallejo Model Wash, but It appears to be water based, so that would NOT be a good panel wash on top of my Acrylic Gloss Clear coat?

(I think I am going to move to Tamiya Acrylics in the future, based on the comments)

BlackSheepTwoOneFour

 

 

Tojo72

Just to add to what was said,whatever your wash or panel liner is,the clear coat needs to be the opposite.

Acrylic wash = enamel or lacquer clear coat Enamel,oil,lacquer wash = acrylic clear coat

Find out what Tamiya Panel Liner is

 

 

 

 

 

That‘s sound advice to remember. Make a note of it for future references. I made a little note on my workspace as a reminder to prevent a potential disaster when working with washes.

 

that plus make sure all coats are thoroughly cured

Tojo72

Just to add to what was said,whatever your wash or panel liner is,the clear coat needs to be the opposite.

Acrylic wash = enamel or lacquer clear coat Enamel,oil,lacquer wash = acrylic clear coat

Find out what Tamiya Panel Liner is

 

That‘s sound advice to remember. Make a note of it for future references. I made a little note on my workspace as a reminder to prevent a potential disaster when working with washes.

*sigh*.... Vallejo..... not a great product IMO. Heard too many horror stories about them. Leaves a vinyl-y finish, scratches too easily, hard to airbrush, too finicky, etc... But hey, it’s your choice of paints and you’re a brave man to use them.

I ditched whatever small collection (around 7 bottles) I had except their off white. I use it exclusively to hand brush D-Day stripings only. 

stikpusher

I would dispute GMs suggestion to just spot paint the gloss coat only where the decals will be applied. That will lead to a patchy appearance even after a flat top coat is applied over the gloss area and decal. It’s more consistent to have the entire surface area glossed before decals. And then apply your final flat coat for the uniform look.

 

I would dispute GMs suggestion to just spot paint the gloss coat only where the decals will be applied. That will lead to a patchy appearance even after a flat top coat is applied over the gloss area and decal. It’s more consistent to have the entire surface area glossed before decals. And then apply your final flat coat for the uniform look.

Just to add to what was said,whatever your wash or panel liner is,the clear coat needs to be the opposite.

Acrylic wash = enamel or lacquer clear coat Enamel,oil,lacquer wash = acrylic clear coat

Find out what Tamiya Panel Liner is

I just looked, because, I have not used, the Tamiya Panel line accent colors, and they are enamel based. Therefore, you would need an acrylic barrier between the model and the panel liner. Future would be good to use as well as any other acrylic clear top coat. 

One point with Future, in my experience, let it cure (harden) for several days. I made the mistake of not letting it cure long enough and the enamel thinner I used did eat through it. 

I think the answer is whatever the Tamiya Panel Line stuff goes over. I've never used it.

For decals on a ship like that, little spot areas for the numbers and name are all you need, no reason to spray the whole thing.

Just FYI "Future" isn't wax; it's just another form of clear acrylic finish. I like to use it on models like armor as a base for weathering, because I like to weather with highly diluted oil paint in Turpenoid, and those things are compatible.