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Sticky Trigger Iwata HP-CS

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  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Sticky Trigger Iwata HP-CS
Posted by Tojo72 on Thursday, February 27, 2020 3:45 PM

I thoroughly clean out my my brush and everything is fine,but after a few sessions the air flow sticks after I let up the trigger.What am I doing wrong or not doing,or is this a repair issue.

  • Member since
    October 2016
  • From: .O-H-I-O....
Posted by DasBeav on Thursday, February 27, 2020 6:07 PM

Is the little pin in the valve sticking? I had that as an issue in my Neo. Beeswaxed it and that fixed it.

 

 Sooner Born...Buckeye Bred.

 

  • Member since
    March 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Thursday, February 27, 2020 7:22 PM

DasBeav

Is the little pin in the valve sticking? I had that as an issue in my Neo. Beeswaxed it and that fixed it.

 

 

Hi, Tojo - That's a good idea the Beav posted, when my Iwata was first used I noticed some abnormal resistance in both the trigger fore and aft movement, and the air valve when the trigger was released. After a dis-assembly I saw some dried and stiff material throughout, I guess it was dried lubricant.

A good cleaning and re-lube with Badger "Regdab" airbrush lube, then some exercising of the trigger took care of it. Don Wheeler and I both found the Iwata lube to dry and get very stiff in a short time. If you don't have the Badger stuff, Don says Chap Stick works very well, I've used it, it works.

Patrick

  • Member since
    July 2018
  • From: The Deep Woods
Posted by Tickmagnet on Thursday, February 27, 2020 8:04 PM

I have the same airbrush, had the same issue. It's a cleaning and lube issue. If you are painting several sessions in between cleanings, it's dirty and not been lubed. At least that cured it for me. I use media lube that came with the airbrush and now I just break it down in between builds instead of what seemed to be everytime I picked it up to use it. Good Luck

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Northeast WA State
Posted by armornut on Thursday, February 27, 2020 10:09 PM

   Mine did that too. I took the inline water trap out and found the " o " ring plunged up in the valve hole, retightend...same issue. Got everything seated right then just finger tight, no sticky trigger since. I agree with the clranning and lube also.

we're modelers it's what we do

  • Member since
    July 2013
  • From: Chicago area
Posted by modelmaker66 on Friday, February 28, 2020 3:04 AM

armornut

   Mine did that too. I took the inline water trap out and found the " o " ring plunged up in the valve hole, retightend...same issue. Got everything seated right then just finger tight, no sticky trigger since. I agree with the clranning and lube also.

 

It is a swollen o ring by the pin that depresses on the air intake when you push down on the trigger. It can happen from solvents or overtightening the assembly on the air intake pin assembly. Lube and letting the solvents evaporate help. Loosten the assembly a little from the airbrush body and re tighten a little bit less tightly.

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Friday, February 28, 2020 7:55 AM

Okay guys,lots of good advice.I just want to be clear,these pics show my airbrush taken apart as far as I know I can go.

What opening do you put the juice top,bottom,or both

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Northeast WA State
Posted by armornut on Friday, February 28, 2020 9:57 AM

   I usually put it in from the top. Just a drop or two, hope I helped solve your problem.

we're modelers it's what we do

  • Member since
    November 2018
Posted by oldermodelguy on Friday, February 28, 2020 10:01 AM

When you strip things down and clean, glycerin makes a good assembly lube. Just a light coating on sliding and pivoting things can go a long ways.. Or bees wax as mentioned, which also seals well. Just glycerin is more slick.....

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Friday, February 28, 2020 10:44 AM
Yes thank you,I also saw a video that said you shouldn't drag the needle out the back because that's what gets paint into that Trigger area. Good hints,thanks all,will see what happens.

  • Member since
    March 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Friday, February 28, 2020 4:00 PM

Tojo - If you haven't looked already, Don Wheeler's website has your exact HP-CS with photos of it completely dis-assembled, and good text info about it's care, with details of it's characteristics. 

I think beeswax is a very good sealant, it works well for giving additional prevention of air leaks, especially at threaded components. But as a lube it's too thick and stiff, it will actually make the trigger control movements more difficult to use.

Great idea to draw the needle out the front, paint and other residue in the bearing and aft portion is not good. Just a FWIW, when I clean my airbrushes I do it with them pointed down, that prevents gravity from allowing material to pass through the bearing and get in the back area and the air valve. Cleaning materials can easily damage O rings and such.

Good luck with getting it all sorted.

Patrick

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Friday, February 28, 2020 4:10 PM

patrick206

Tojo - If you haven't looked already, Don Wheeler's website has your exact HP-CS with photos of it completely dis-assembled, and good text info about it's care, with details of it's characteristics. 

I think beeswax is a very good sealant, it works well for giving additional prevention of air leaks, especially at threaded components. But as a lube it's too thick and stiff, it will actually make the trigger control movements more difficult to use.

Great idea to draw the needle out the front, paint and other residue in the bearing and aft portion is not good. Just a FWIW, when I clean my airbrushes I do it with them pointed down, that prevents gravity from allowing material to pass through the bearing and get in the back area and the air valve. Cleaning materials can easily damage O rings and such.

Good luck with getting it all sorted.

Patrick

 

Thanks Patrick,funny I always refer members to that site,Embarrassed need to take my own advice.I ordered some of that Badger Regdab needle juice.

 

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Saturday, February 29, 2020 9:42 AM

My 2 cents after having read all the good coments above....

When I first got mine some years back, I used the lube supplied by Iwata. As mentioned above, it gummed up and made my trigger stick.

I stripped it down, bought some Regdab. Sometimes when I strip the brush and feel like it I put a drop of Regdab on the stem part of the trigger assy before I wiggle it down into it's hole.

Also, MM66 suggestion about the overtighened hose connector end thing is valid. I've done that too.

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Thursday, March 5, 2020 5:03 PM
A good cleaining,some of the Regdab juice,and pushing the needle out instead of pulling it seems to be doing the trick.

  • Member since
    July 2018
  • From: The Deep Woods
Posted by Tickmagnet on Thursday, March 5, 2020 6:13 PM

Great to know the problem is solved. It took me about six months to get completely comfortable with my Iwata. Now it's great.

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Thursday, March 5, 2020 6:38 PM

Tojo72
A good cleaining,some of the Regdab juice,and pushing the needle out instead of pulling it seems to be doing the trick.
 

Good to hear, Tojo! It is nice of you to update the thread. Yes

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