Sticky Trigger Iwata HP-CS

Tojo72

A good cleaining,some of the Regdab juice,and pushing the needle out instead of pulling it seems to be doing the trick.

 

Good to hear, Tojo! It is nice of you to update the thread.

Great to know the problem is solved. It took me about six months to get completely comfortable with my Iwata. Now it's great.

My after having read all the good coments above....

When I first got mine some years back, I used the lube supplied by Iwata. As mentioned above, it gummed up and made my trigger stick.

I stripped it down, bought some Regdab. Sometimes when I strip the brush and feel like it I put a drop of Regdab on the stem part of the trigger assy before I wiggle it down into it's hole.

Also, MM66 suggestion about the overtighened hose connector end thing is valid. I've done that too.

patrick206

Tojo - If you haven't looked already, Don Wheeler's website has your exact HP-CS with photos of it completely dis-assembled, and good text info about it's care, with details of it's characteristics. 

I think beeswax is a very good sealant, it works well for giving additional prevention of air leaks, especially at threaded components. But as a lube it's too thick and stiff, it will actually make the trigger control movements more difficult to use.

Great idea to draw the needle out the front, paint and other residue in the bearing and aft portion is not good. Just a FWIW, when I clean my airbrushes I do it with them pointed down, that prevents gravity from allowing material to pass through the bearing and get in the back area and the air valve. Cleaning materials can easily damage O rings and such.

Good luck with getting it all sorted.

Patrick

 

Thanks Patrick,funny I always refer members to that site, need to take my own advice.I ordered some of that Badger Regdab needle juice.

Tojo - If you haven't looked already, Don Wheeler's website has your exact HP-CS with photos of it completely dis-assembled, and good text info about it's care, with details of it's characteristics. 

I think beeswax is a very good sealant, it works well for giving additional prevention of air leaks, especially at threaded components. But as a lube it's too thick and stiff, it will actually make the trigger control movements more difficult to use.

Great idea to draw the needle out the front, paint and other residue in the bearing and aft portion is not good. Just a FWIW, when I clean my airbrushes I do it with them pointed down, that prevents gravity from allowing material to pass through the bearing and get in the back area and the air valve. Cleaning materials can easily damage O rings and such.

Good luck with getting it all sorted.

Patrick

When you strip things down and clean, glycerin makes a good assembly lube. Just a light coating on sliding and pivoting things can go a long ways.. Or bees wax as mentioned, which also seals well. Just glycerin is more slick.....

   I usually put it in from the top. Just a drop or two, hope I helped solve your problem.

Okay guys,lots of good advice.I just want to be clear,these pics show my airbrush taken apart as far as I know I can go.

What opening do you put the juice top,bottom,or both

armornut

   Mine did that too. I took the inline water trap out and found the " o " ring plunged up in the valve hole, retightend...same issue. Got everything seated right then just finger tight, no sticky trigger since. I agree with the clranning and lube also.

 

   Mine did that too. I took the inline water trap out and found the " o " ring plunged up in the valve hole, retightend...same issue. Got everything seated right then just finger tight, no sticky trigger since. I agree with the clranning and lube also.

I have the same airbrush, had the same issue. It's a cleaning and lube issue. If you are painting several sessions in between cleanings, it's dirty and not been lubed. At least that cured it for me. I use media lube that came with the airbrush and now I just break it down in between builds instead of what seemed to be everytime I picked it up to use it. Good Luck

DasBeav

Is the little pin in the valve sticking? I had that as an issue in my Neo. Beeswaxed it and that fixed it.

 

 

A good cleaning and re-lube with Badger "Regdab" airbrush lube, then some exercising of the trigger took care of it. Don Wheeler and I both found the Iwata lube to dry and get very stiff in a short time. If you don't have the Badger stuff, Don says Chap Stick works very well, I've used it, it works.

Patrick

Is the little pin in the valve sticking? I had that as an issue in my Neo. Beeswaxed it and that fixed it.