Badger Stynylrez Primer

Wingman_kz

Bakster, that's great news. Going to order some of those myself. Might come in handy for other things too. Like weathering. I knew there had to be something better, just didn't know what to look for! Thanks.

You are welcome.

Greg

I'm always looking for a way to clean the inside diameter behind the rear seal of my a/b's without using a pipe-cleaner. I wonder if the smaller foam tipped swab might work for that?

Hey Greg, I am not sure because I am not familiar with your AB. I can tell you that I was able to use the smaller swab to clean my head assembly and the opening in the body of my AB, that is just forward of the needle bearing. It does a fantastic job cleaning and it has sped up my cleaning process by a bunch. I use a Badger AB. The swab does NOT fit into the tip portion of the head assembly but, I noticed they offer a conical shaped swab that might. You'd have to check the size. For the tip I use a rubberized dental pick and that works very well.

Anyway, these work great. I wish I found them much sooner.

Bakster, that's great news. Going to order some of those myself. Might come in handy for other things too. Like weathering. I knew there had to be something better, just didn't know what to look for! Thanks.

Greg, I've seen that word used before but didnt realize what they actually looked like. Badger sells a "reamer" to remove or install nozzles on some of their airbrushes like the 100 series. They're threaded but don't have flats on the outside so you use that tool. But you can remove the head to clean it so I didn't need to remove the nozzle. Like you, when I saw the term reamer, I figured it would or could remove metal. 

Sure, you could sand a flat on a toothpick to use it for cleaning. I've done it in the past for cleaning larger nozzles like a Badger Patriot or 360. When you get to a .3mm or .2mm nozzle there won't be much left though. Just my opinion but the texture of the wood is probably enough.

On other forums I've seen folks suggest using an old airbrush needle for this. File or grind off the fine tip of the needle and put a flat on the side. But that was people that made a living airbrushing and went through a lot more equipment than I ever will.

Steve, those foam-tipped swabs look neat. Glad they're working out for you.

I'm always looking for a way to clean the inside diameter behind the rear seal of my a/b's without using a pipe-cleaner. I wonder if the smaller foam tipped swab might work for that?

Wingman_kz

Be sure and clean the inside of the nozzle on your airbrush. Things get caught in there too and will build up. The smaller the opening the more effect it has.

Good advice. This is why I scratch my head when I read comments from folks who claim they have used their a/b for x years and have never disassembled it. I hope they at least unscrew the nozzle cap and clean the nozzle!

I bought a nozzle reamer when I was getting back into the hobby. It sat in a drawer all this time. I was afraid to use it because by definition, a reamer removes material and I was afraid of literally 'reaming' the taped I.D. of the nozzle and ruining it.

For some reason, last summer I pulled it out and inspected it. Reamer is a misnomer, it isn't a reamer at all. It is a tapered point with about half of the diameter ground down. It cannot 'ream' because it does not have a cutting edge. It is brilliantly simple. Afer reading your idea of using a ground down toothpick, I wonder if one could do that, then file half of end down and have a little Jerry rigged nozzle 'reamer'?

Here is a lower cost nozzle 'reamer' I found whilst fetching the link for the one I own. I suspect it works just as well.

Hey Wingman, the foam swabs came in and I gave them a try. Wow! I like them! They are super absorbent and they work fantastic to clean my brush and paint cup/jar. The foam soaks up the paint beautifully. I dip the swab in some thinner and give things a wipe. So easy. No more of my using cotton swabs, and no more paper towels. They both leave fibers behind.

Not being sure of which ones would work best, I ordered two sizes. In testing I found that the smaller diameter swab works fantastic to clean my paint jar paint tube. It fits perfectly, and the swab can be pushed all the way through it. Cleaning that tube is never easier. What is amazing too is how the foam glides along the surface. There is no sticking, no resistance. 

The larger of the two swabs is closer to the size of a standard cotton swab. Both are useful for my purposes.

My only regret with this is that I didn't get these much sooner. Since stopping the use of cotton swabs and papertowels, the paint fiber issue seems to be history. 

Thought I'd let your know.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CCFVL26/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C6DSYXH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Wingman_kz

Those look good. Let us know how they work out.

 

I sure will!

PS: just did another spray session and there was zero fiber/lint. Giddy up!

Those look good. Let us know how they work out.

This might work for me. They make these in all sizes and even pointy shapes. Gonna try some.

Ok done now. Lol.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C6DSYXH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The linked swab might be too large a diameter to fit the AB opening. Like I said...need to research more.

Wingman_kz

Be sure and clean the inside of the nozzle on your airbrush. Things get caught in there too and will build up. The smaller the opening the more effect it has. You can sand down the point of a wooden toothpick to fit. It won't hurt anything as long as you don't force it. Insert it from the back, not the front.

Yup, with every use. 

Thanks for your input. I appreciate it!

I tested it and it DID work much better. There was one tiny fiber that ended up in the finish, but it was very small, and unlike the much larger ones that I had before. Maybe it was a residual piece in the brush, or it was airborne. But I can say for sure, it came out much better. From my perspective, I am done using cotton swabs to clean my AB and/or peripheral.

Having said that though... I need to create a better cleaning process because it is harder to clean some of this stuff by just using a dental pick. It works, but it takes more time and more solvent, neither I am thrilled about.

I did a little checking and there is such a thing as foam swabs. They say they are lint free and they can take solvents. I need to do a little more research but I think I will buy some to try. Link is below for a possible source. 

https://www.amazon.com/Cleaning-Multi-Purpose-Cleanroom-Automotive-Detailing/dp/B082TYJSY1/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&aaxitk=0wZY2HKhILK6YDBbgEdF9w&hsa_cr_id=9600522220301&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_0

I even bought some Tamiya cotton swabs and useful as they are for some things, they're just too hard for wiping any film out of an airbrush cup.

I'll admit to not being as cautious as I used to be. Painting military subjects that are going to be weathered anyway I haven't been nearly as particular as when I painted model cars. I have a paint booth too, with a door and lights, etc. I used to go to great lengths with vacuuming, cleaning, clothes I wore while painting, not moving in front of the paint booth or stirring up anything in the room. Lol  And, being very particular about how I cleaned my equipment. 

But, enough about that.    Be sure and clean the inside of the nozzle on your airbrush. Things get caught in there too and will build up. The smaller the opening the more effect it has. You can sand down the point of a wooden toothpick to fit. It won't hurt anything as long as you don't force it. Insert it from the back, not the front.

PS: For the sake of discussion I will run a test. I need to paint the primed piece. I will give my AB and AB cup a thorough cleaning ( no swabs), followed by a major flush of the system. I will let the system dry to illiminate  any possible cross contamination, and then paint the piece. I will report back what happens.

Wingman_kz

My apologies Bakster. My phone changed your name and I didn't see it. 

I use cotton swabs to wipe out the cup on my airbrushes and sometimes I'll get little fibers in the paint too. I didn't realize what it was at first. Never used to happen, I don't know what's changed. Maybe it's just me. 

 

Wingman, spellchecker gets me all the time! No worries!

You are confirming my concern. I have an elaborate spray-booth that is pretty much a closed system. Particulates coming from outside of the booth, though possible, it is unlikely, and I go through great lengths to make sure the model is free of any dust or fibers prior to spraying. On three recent spray sessions, I have found what looks like cotton fiber on my spray job. Pretty frustrating. And on one of those spray sessions, it was a small job, and the contamination happened early in the session. THAT, is what got me thinking. I figure the longer you are spraying on a job, the higher chance you will have of contamination. This was a short job, and I still had issues. In fact, on the same piece and while spraying the primer, two pieces of lint made it to the job. This should not be happening. And just so that I am clear to those reading this. I know this is lint and not paint issues. I know the difference because I have over time experienced both. The latter is not what is happening. These are fibers. The only explanation I can come up with is that I am introducing contamination with my AB cleaning process.

I will stop using the swabs and instead use the dental pick. Then, see how this goes. 

Thanks for chiming in!

My apologies Bakster. My phone changed your name and I didn't see it. 

I use cotton swabs to wipe out the cup on my airbrushes and sometimes I'll get little fibers in the paint too. I didn't realize what it was at first. Never used to happen, I don't know what's changed. Maybe it's just me. 

oldermodelguy

Whenever there is an odd substance we think of cleaning from airbush, mixing containers if used, to the actual model surface. But strands or fibers can also be some form of compatability problem.

True. I have seen that happen as well.

Wingman_kz

Blaster, you could use those little brushes meant for cleaning between your teeth for that. Some of them are flat and not very useful but some are cone shaped and work very well. Lacquer thinner doesn't phase them either. Or, you can get a set of brushes meant for airbrushes from Harbor Freight for 2 or 3 dollars I think.

 

 

Wingman, that sounds like a good plan. I will try that. Thanks!

Blaster, you could use those little brushes meant for cleaning between your teeth for that. Some of them are flat and not very useful but some are cone shaped and work very well. Lacquer thinner doesn't phase them either. Or, you can get a set of brushes meant for airbrushes from Harbor Freight for 2 or 3 dollars I think.

Bakster

 

 

oldermodelguy

I've switch to adding about 10% Lacquer Thinner to stynylrez and the finish flows nice and is so smooth as to be ready to paint over. Not to mention a finer tip can be used.

And yes clean the AB immediately.

 

 

 

 

Well, THAT is interesting. I think for now I will skip trying Lacquer because that will just add fumes into my equation. Awesome input though and I am not totally ruling it out.

I just sprayed a plastic stand and I used my previous formula using IPA to thin and two drops of flow Aid. It sprayed excellent. It went on wet and laid down flat. No struggles at all.

I keep getting occasional fibers in my paint finish. They don't look like dust, they look like small fibers. I am beginning to wonder if its from how I clean my AB equipment. I have a bottom feeder and at cleaning I use a thinner soaked cotton swab to clean out the neck that the jar attaches to. I wonder if I am introducing this garbage into the system, and during use, fibers dislodge and spray out. Do I need to worry about cleaning that neck out? Is there another option to use? 

Any thoughts on that?

Whenever there is an odd substance we think of cleaning from airbush, mixing containers if used, to the actual model surface. But strands or fibers can also be some form of compatability problem.

oldermodelguy

I've switch to adding about 10% Lacquer Thinner to stynylrez and the finish flows nice and is so smooth as to be ready to paint over. Not to mention a finer tip can be used.

And yes clean the AB immediately.

 

Well, THAT is interesting. I think for now I will skip trying Lacquer because that will just add fumes into my equation. Awesome input though and I am not totally ruling it out.

I just sprayed a plastic stand and I used my previous formula using IPA to thin and two drops of flow Aid. It sprayed excellent. It went on wet and laid down flat. No struggles at all.

I keep getting occasional fibers in my paint finish. They don't look like dust, they look like small fibers. I am beginning to wonder if its from how I clean my AB equipment. I have a bottom feeder and at cleaning I use a thinner soaked cotton swab to clean out the neck that the jar attaches to. I wonder if I am introducing this garbage into the system, and during use, fibers dislodge and spray out. Do I need to worry about cleaning that neck out? Is there another option to use? 

Any thoughts on that?

Tojo72

I usually try to use the Tamiya in the can,its easy to step out on my basement walk out and spray,but I don't like the Badger stuff too,the only problem is if you wait just a little,it really hardens in my airbrush requiring a total strip down

 

I hear ya, Tojo. Tamiya is good stuff and it's why I hesitated to leave it. THAT, and that I had a can to use up.

Good tip about the cleaning...

Greg

PS, getting smoked out of your place for a day due to the Tamiya fumes, I wonder if maybe that was payback for messing with me earlier this year over the stinky Vallejo?

You crack me up, Greg. Lol. Buddy! The thing is... I don't want to use Vallejo either because of it's smell. It's funny you brought this up because just a few days ago I was thinking about it. How can Greg say there is no smell to it and for me it stinks to high heaven? It got me thinking that maybe part of the smell is a result of my using Tamiya thinner with it. Not to start a whole new debate about why not to use that but I swear it worked great with the Model Air. But maybe the combination causes a chemical reaction making it stink. Anywho... too funny.

Btw. In my searches for this thread I came across your thread about it pooling or something. That was a good thread too! It was an interesting read.

Tojo72

the only problem is if you wait just a little,it really hardens in my airbrush requiring a total strip down

That's great advice for Bakster.

Since OMG already seconded it, I'll third it.

I've switch to adding about 10% Lacquer Thinner to stynylrez and the finish flows nice and is so smooth as to be ready to paint over. Not to mention a finer tip can be used.

And yes clean the AB immediately.

Since you revived the thread, I can't remember if I mentioned to you that since my comments here last May, I added a fan pattern airbrush to my arsenal.

I thought the Stynylrez finish was smooth before (with the regular Iwata .5mm needle/noozle) but it layed down with a smoother finish, more like that of a Tamiya rattle can primer finish with the fan pattern. It happened to be Stynylrez black.

I hear you regarding the desire to grab the Tamiya. Almost foolproof. And the rattlecan version is so doggone convenient. But bad news to spray inside.

PS, getting smoked out of your place for a day due to the Tamiya fumes, I wonder if maybe that was payback for messing with me earlier this year over the stinky Vallejo?

What a great thread with such great info. I just rediscovered it. I had a tough time finding it using the search but then I remembered Bills advice to Google it.

Somewhere along the line I didn't follow through in using this primer. I had migrated back to Tamiya Surface Primer. Doing so reminds me why I wanted to get away from TSP... the smell. It stinks up my Condo for at least a day, headache and all.

Gonna try the Stynyrelz again, tomorrow. 

What's the point in my post? Just that I appreciate all the great input you guys gave me here. I won't need to reinvent the wheel. 

Thanking you again. 

oldermodelguy

But the other day using my .25 nozzle I thinned black Stynylrez cut maybe 20% with 70% ipa. It shot great, took an extra coat for coverage. I had a few dry spots I just touched with the 000 sw and all is well. Makes for a very thin primer coat where the details almost seem to pop out. So it's kind of to each his own.

THAT is a nugget of info.  Now I see how far you can go with this. This is great to know.

oldermodelguy

I've hand brushed small parts straight from the bottle with that black color too ( great for radiator hoses on a flat head Ford, brush it on and forget about it except maybe a little weathering),,.  

I am laughing here because this is yet another nugget. I can't tell you how many times I wished to hand brush some small piece black but I didn't. I didn't because I couldn't achieve an airbrushed look that keeps scale with even coverage. I'll have to buy a bottle just for that! I can imagine this primer would accomplish that.

Hey -- as you keep learning things with this primer--please update this thread. It's all good.

Thanks for the additional tips!