How many airbrushes do you use?

oldermodelguy

If it holds up to abusive tape like that it will hold up fine to my model tapes which have about 1/3 the tack to them. But see that's key isn't it ? To test more than to paint, then when you paint you most often win.

Yup.  I use Dymo tape for testing like that...tape adhesive doesn't get much more aggressive than Dymo.  I just got tired of having paint failures during masking, so I dove into a pretty detailed surface prep and primer experimentation phase using Dymo tape for the torture test.  Don't have paint failures anymore.  

I run my H between 20 and 35 psi but I have a 4.5 cfm 8 gal compressor so pressure isn't an issue even with the #5 tip set on there or a full size lvlp gun for that matter.. My 200 is single action siphon also and with bottles I run that beween 18 and 23 or so, with a cup 12-20 totally depending on the material being sprayed. I've even shot washes down around 8-10 psi with the side cup on there. Most acrylics like a bit more pressure.

Yesterday I was shooting Goldens High Flow acrylic at 30psi with the H. Came out awesome, just with the retarder in my thinner blend it took overnight for a good full dry. Today I put full 3/4" blue painters tape on there and yanked it off, nothing came with it. That was my test I was conducting. It is Paynes Grey, it's almost black blue when shot over dark colors or a strong dark blue shot over white but I want to use that as a secondary color on something thus testing the tape. If it holds up to abusive tape like that it will hold up fine to my model tapes which have about 1/3 the tack to them. But see that's key isn't it ? To test more than to paint, then when you paint you most often win.

ScaleModeler_1973

what is MEK (is it a type of chemical ingredient)?

MEK stands for Methyl Ethyl Ketone.  Its an extremely powerful solvent that makes a great airbrush parts cleaner because it removes every type of paint I have run through my airbrush, so there's no guesswork as to what to use for what.  But, you have to be careful not to let it get on anything that is made out of plastic, it will melt it pretty much instantly.  In fact, a lot of people use it as plastic cement for putting their models together.  It can usually be found in most hardware stores.  I buy mine from a local aviation maintenance supplier.

MRP is the name used by a Slovakian manufacturer of a full line of high-quality acrylic lacquer paints.  They are also known as Mr. Paint, but they switched to MRP so they wouldn't be confused as often with the Mr. Hobby products from Gunze in Japan.  Sprue Brothers carries a really good stock of them, as does HobbyWorld USA.  Their airbrush-only line of paint is pre-thinned, so you just drop some in your airbrush color cup and start painting.  Cure time on these is amazing...under 1 hour to a rock-hard cure.  They also make brushable paints in their Aqua and Figure lines.  I started using them when I was looking for a replacement for the disappearing Model Master enamels (hated the Model Master Acryl paints).  Turns out they also had an amazing selection of paint colors for other country's militaries as well...lots of Russian colors.

On my Paasche H, I normally run between 20 and 25 PSI, mostly with the #1 needle.

OK, thanks for sharing all of this additional information, especially about (safely) stripping paint from a model, properly thinning paint, and the benefits of using a single action airbrush. A couple of follow-up (newby) questions, what is MEK (is it a type of chemical ingredient)? Also, what does MRP stand for? (Is it a brand of paint?-I could not find it on Amazon, but maybe some online hobby stores sell this particular line?). One observation I made from reading your guys' posts and reflecting is that I am probably using too low pressure when I airbrush.... I typically use 10 to 12 psi, because I have had bad experience with flooding my models with too much paint with my early airbrushing when using higher psi:( I feel like I can 'control' the paint better at low psi (especially when trying to paint 'relief areas').  But it does leave more of a sort of 'grainier' finish to the paint as a tradeoff. I guess I am overcompensating with such low pressure-maybe I just need to move the airbrush faster (and should bump up the psi?). I think this is where experimentation and experience probably come into play (adjusting variables and making note of the effect they have on one's airbrushing). I've decided to buy a Paasche H airbrush. I am eager to give one a try using the guidance that you all have shared! (oh, and thanks for the tip about more effective searching for relevant posts online).

Eaglecash867

Gil,  for a web-site link, the BB code would look like this...just omit the spaces that I put in after the brackets...have to put those in there to trick it.

[ URL]web-site address[ /URL]

You can do the same thing for pictures too, where you use "IMG" in the place of "URL".

 

Thanks a bunch you answered while I was slowly pecking away at my edit

Gil,  for a web-site link, the BB code would look like this...just omit the spaces that I put in after the brackets...have to put those in there to trick it.

[ URL]web-site address[ /URL]

You can do the same thing for pictures too, where you use "IMG" in the place of "URL".

Eaglecash867

Fixed it for ya, Gil.  I had the same trouble you were having a few weeks ago, so I just started manually adding the BB code tags around links instead of messing with the automatic ones the post editor generates.

Thanks Eaglecash867, I appreciate it!

I don't want to derail this thread but I am going to show one of my MANY areas of ignorance. I am pretty software/coding illiterate and I had never heard of a BB code tag. A little searching leads me to believe they may look something like this...

Am I correct in assuming that you manually inserted the brackets and text inside of the brackets around my broken link to fix things or am I way off base on this? As further proof of my ignorance I first tried just typing in the text instead of inserting the image above. The brackets and their contents did not appear in the post and I am assuming that is because the text editor recognized the BB codes? Again thanks for fixing the link. Also thanks in advance for any enlightenment you can spare and feel free to move this to the testing forum or elsewhere if you think it should be moved. Or feel free to ignore it too.

Back to the bench

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/tools_techniques_and_reference_materials/f/18/t/178454.aspx

Fixed it for ya, Gil.  I had the same trouble you were having a few weeks ago, so I just started manually adding the BB code tags around links instead of messing with the automatic ones the post editor generates.

ScaleModeler_1973, I missed one of your last posts where you asked about stripping paint.  I always use 99% Isopropyl alcohol and a cheap electric toothbrush to strip paint.  If you can give your subject a bath in the alcohol, that works best, but it can also be done without the bath...just takes longer.  I know there are a lot of people out there using things like oven cleaner to do that, but that is a really bad idea.  The chemicals in oven cleaner will actually change the molecular structure of the plastic on your model and make it much more brittle.  Isopropyl alcohol has no such side effects and with a little effort, it will strip any paint off your model, right down to the bare plastic.  If you can't find 99%, lower concentrations will also work.  Also, avoid denatured alcohol, as it often has really nasty solvents such as MEK in it...they put those in there to make it taste bad so people won't drink it.  Don't want that stuff on your plastic.

Sorry folks the second link quit working after I went back and edited the text at the start of my reply. After several attempts on two different machines I have not been able to fix itor add it in a new post as an active hyper link.

ScaleModeler_1973

I didn't make the connection that a double action is harder to use than a single one: I just thought that it is a stylistic decision as to which one a hobbyist chooses to use.

For me the biggest advantage to the single action is being able to set the line width that the airbrush is spraying and then just focus on hand control and putting the paint where I want it, especially with camouflage patterns. Of course this assumes that your paint thinning, additives, air pressure etc. is at the point that you are not getting clogs, sputtering or other problems. And that is where time and practice come into play big time.

Actually the Badger Renegade Velocity that I enjoy using has an adjustable "needle stop" that makes it function like a single action airbrush. I am the first to admit that this is a big crutch that a skilled double action airbrush user doesn't need but it works for me. I may someday gain enough experience to migrate away from needle stops, but maybe not lol.

Inserted below is a link that includes a LOT of info on how an airbrush works and what is available. Paul Budzik can get pretty technical but I am enough of a nerd that I enjoy that stuff and his material is always polished and very well presented. I think the things that helped me most out of this entire website were the cutaway views of the airbrush and the animations that showed how air and paint flow in the airbrush. Those are contained in the video that you access by clicking on the "Choosing the Right Airbrush for Scale Modeling" link in the list of chapters near the top of the page. For me personally it really helped to understand what was going on inside my airbrushes. Others may not find it particularly intersting or useful, to each his or her own.

https://paulbudzik.com/tools-techniques/Airbrushing/airbrushing_for_modelers.html

Also, you mentioned possibly trying to strip paint on one of your armor models. Here is a link to one of the discussions on the FSM forum regarding various paint stripping methods...

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/tools_techniques_and_reference_materials/f/18/t/178454.aspx

One last thing about locating information on the FSM forums. Unfortunately the forum search engine is rarely successful. If you just use Google or your favorite search engine and tack on "Fine Scale Modeler" at the end of your search terms it will almost always produce good results. That is how I found the link for the paint removal discussion.

Good luck with your airbrushing adventures!

oldermodelguy

But I really like that ultrasonic idea too.

Yup.  I just put a little water into the cleaner tub to help the sound waves get to the jar a little better and away it goes.  Also found that MEK is actually friendlier to the chrome plating on the airbrush parts than some of the other cleaners I have used for acrylics.

I use two a iwata neo with a .05 needle, and a paasche with a .035 needle. 

I strip the needle out of my H about twice a year or if I change tip sizes which is rare.I just make sure I really flush and back flush good with lacquer thinner for solvent paints or warm water and a squirt of fantastik or other detergent and follow up with alcohol then a water rinse for acrylics. The back flushing is key. But I really like that ultrasonic idea too. The thing is I shoot in the kitchen, the kitchen sink is right there next to my spray area so done deal for me.

The passages are quite large on an H and I spray mostly acrylics these days.

A single stage compressor with no tank will keep up with an H with the #1 tip fine, the #3 tip if you don't crank the pressure over 25 psi. Forget the #5 tip but you don't really need that anyway. Most airbrushes today are restricted on airflow, people don't realize this. It's something like 30psi, so you can crank your air up to 50 psi and it will only blow 30 anyway. But an H is unrestricted. So there is that. I mostly shoot my H with a #3 between 20 and 30 psi. If doing a wash or lacquer it's set lower butr I'm more likely to be using a different brush anyway, probably the 200. The 200 with side cup mounted rather than bottle will flow thin material at 10 psi. It's very miserly on air with that fine tip and lower pressure settings ( usually 18psi or less).

If using jars hanging off the bottom of a siphon brush figure on bumping up your pressure 2-3lb more than you're used to. The metal side cup is less affected....

Thinning paint more is generally the key to good patterns and takes less pressure to move the paint. This is a matter of vicosity more than ratio ( a drop of paint fromyour cup set on the side of the cupnshould flatten out and return to the pool of paint below in 1-3 seconds, if it just sits there on the side or barely migrates down you got an issue with viscosity, simple huh ? Frig the ratio but once you know a paint you can determine ratio for that paint then if you're a ratio nut). Any airbrush will always flow water or thinner alone beautifully. If your paint is too thick now it doesn't do that so well ? So the take away ? Thin your paint, that's why we have thinner........ Use a flow aid agent in your acrylic paints and a bit of retarder, flow aid does as it says aids flow lol. The retarder stops tip dry. For me that becomes part of my thinner solution, then when I thin my paint it's already in my thinner so I don't even think about it. Flow aid is a less is more thing. I use Liquitex, you can also use a trace element of dish soap. But again with flow aid never think more is better but rather less is better. You only need enough to break surface tension. But I make my own thinners for the most part too, so the amounts needed or even if needed in commercial thinners varies ( most need some).

ScaleModeler_1973

Oh, one follow up question that I have about siphon fed single action airbrushes: I have been using a gravity fed airbrush (cup on the top), and I am wondering with a siphon fed, do you end up 'wasting' more paint because the bottom of the jar can't be reached by the tube? I guess if so, this is a minor consideration. Put differently, I am not clear on how the paint goes upward through the tube (is it powered by the air flow when I pulll the trigger on my airbrush)? Just trying to picture how a siphoon fed airbrush works.

 

Oh, one follow up question that I have about siphon fed single action airbrushes: I have been using a gravity fed airbrush (cup on the top), and I am wondering with a siphon fed, do you end up 'wasting' more paint because the bottom of the jar can't be reached by the tube? I guess if so, this is a minor consideration. Put differently, I am not clear on how the paint goes upward through the tube (is it powered by the air flow when I pulll the trigger on my airbrush)? Just trying to picture how a siphoon fed airbrush works.

I always preface my reply (after posting a question) by (honestly) telling you folks that I appreciate all of your input and the wealth of experience you are sharing with a beginning modeler/airbrusher. I know it takes time to read and reply to questions from fellow posters. So thanks! Please let me clarify/explain a bit further. I described using a 'generic' cheap airbrush. On the case of mine, it reads 'Master' 'Model G-233'. I don't know if anyone has used this type of airbrush? But I do know that it is double action: I have to press the trigger down and then rock it back some to get paint to 'discharge'. I think some posters suggestion to try using a single action airbrush (such as a Badger 350 or Passche H) is a good idea (that I should have latched onto earlier). I didn't make the connection that a double action is harder to use than a single one: I just thought that it is a stylistic decision as to which one a hobbyist chooses to use. Now I know better. I am going to buy one of the single actions-I see some of them really are not that expensive at all, too. I am using a 'Point Zero' 1/5th HP with regulator water trap, tankless compressor. Like my airbrush, I bought it on Amazon. I notice that it only revs up and really works hard when I depress the trigger on my airbrush. I think this is because it is 'tankless'? It costed about $75. I don't know if I should invest in a better brand/more expensive compressor (with more features-like an air tank)? I really appreciate, too, the empathy that some of your more experienced users extended to me a newbie in commenting on the mental/emotional toll/experience that comes from encountering difficulties with this hobby: It is admittedly a bit depressing and frustrating when you have to cut short a painting session due to technical problems and do poorly on a scale model that you have spent time carefully building. I guess I feel encouraged knowing that other hobbyists have their ups and downs, too, especially in the early going... But the important thing is to keep trying to learn and improve. What a great idea to buy inexpensive plastic signs, or even just spoons to practice airbrushing on rather than my finished models:) Ironically, my airbrushing of my 1/16th scale Panther G actually went decently: the paint adhered OK and I was able to spray it pretty consistently (the only problem was that I did not think to stir my Vallejo dunkelgelb paint beforehand (I only shook the bottle up), and the finished paint job looks more greenish than dark yellow (It looks like an unripened banana, haha). But I know historical accuracy with respect to paint shades of World War Two tanks is relative, too. I'm not sure if I can paint yellow over my Panther G or if there is some way to strip off the greenish paint and try it again with properly sitrred paint? I have heard that 1/35th scale plastic models can be soaked into stripper/thinner and paint removed that way. But I can't do that with my 1/16th scale tank because of the electronics attached to it. Thanks for the tips about making sure that I am cleaning my airbrush more thoroughly (especially the nozzle) and for being mindful of how well I am mixing/what ratios I am using to thin my paints (the non ready to airbrush brands like Tamiya). I am getting a lot of variation in the width of my spray so there may very well be something partially clogging up the works in my airbrush or maybe the paint is just too thick. What I am basically hearing from posters who replied to my question is that there is a learning curve for picking up airbrushing (and there will be proverbial 'growing pains'), but investing in some better tools might help take some of the guess work  away and spare me some of the biggest (frustrations...) in this process. Thanks again for being so receptive to helping out a fellow hobbyist. I will report back periodically to hopefully share some of my progress, even if it is in small steps.

I have 4, Pasche VL, Pasche H, Iwata HP-BC and an Iwata HP-C+

I started with the VL and the HP-BC. My mother tried her hand at airbrushing back in the 90s and these and a compresser were sitting unused for 10 years. She "lent" them to me and I started and learned using them. I picked up the H because I wanted a good single stage for mass coverage type deals. 

I got extremely tired of the cleanup and the inherent problems with syphon feed airbrushing, so I picked up the C+. Since getting the C+, I can honestly say I dont use any of the other ones anymore. The cleanup is so easy with the gravity feed style, it is unreal. I have a sink nearby to my airbrush booth and it makes cleanup fast. I am able to switch colours and do small amounts of paint with ease.

The short reply is I have 3 airbrushes. Could just end there.

But: I use my 47 yo original Badger 200 ( non F) with fine needle perhaps most. I do use it's backup the Pasche H quite a bit with the acrylics though. I'm presently in a holding pattern using that H lately actually. I could live with just either one but the 200 fine tip is a very nice tip with very fine atomization with lacquers especially. Then I have the Ganzton Iwata knock off I tuned up, it sprays beautiful but I favor the other two. It's not about the brand, Double action gains me 0 for how I spray. On the double action I end up screwing in the needle stop anyway. If I did canvas art work I could see the benefit for that with DA but not on my models.

My 200 with fine tip is certainly my favorite for MM Metalizers, it was awesome. But of course I have about 2/3 bottle of silver plate buffing left and that's the end of that stash never to be seen again. No aluminum I've seen yet matches that buffing paint, it just did everything right.

cbaltrin

I started modeling so I would have an excuse to buy an airbrush...a paasche VL... that was 40 years ago..

I like that!

Iwata SAR, HP-CS, HP-C+

Badger Sotar 20/20, 200G

Paasche H1016

I almost always use the C+.  The Sotar for some fine stuff and Alclad chrome, and the Paasche for primer sometimes. I used the 200G before I got a good deal on the Sotar.

Dave

I just like to collect things.

I started modeling so I would have an excuse to buy an airbrush...a paasche VL... that was 40 years ago..

Now I have 4 Iwatas--BCS, CS, CR  & RG3

ScaleModeler_1973

Hello folks. In response to the thread question, I just use a $35 generic airbrush. But that may be part of my airbrushing problems (I'm thinking of buying a more expensive one). I have airbrushed for about twelve to fifteen sessions in my short armor scale model building experience, at both the 1/16th and 1/35th scales. I'm not encountering much 'success' by any standards. I have read thoroughly a couple of the FSM branded 'how to' airbrushing and scale model building instructional books. I've tried implementing what I see demonstrated in the books. But I often get derailed figuratively speaking early in a painting session (airbrush loses pressure, paint sometimes comes out in too narrow of a band (I've been using a .3 needle- for some reason in my early airbrushing, paint came out in a wide stream which let me cover the relatively larger size of my 1/16th scale Panther G, etc, but the last few sessions, it has only come out in a more needle like swath [no wider than the diameter of a No. 2 pencil]). I only have used acrylic paint thus far (Vallejo and a bit of Tamiya (thinned)). I do thoroughly clean my airbrush (shooting cleaner through it) and disassemble it (removing needle and other parts) after use.  I guess my long-winded question is how much of success with airbrushing (turning out quality finished paint jobs on one's scale models) is operator skill/talent and how much is attributable to the quality of the tools one uses (airbrush, compressor, paints, etc.)? I thought that I could invest in more expensive tools after gaining some skill with a cheaper setup. But maybe the best way to set oneself up for success with airbrushing is by buying/starting off with better tools (from the start)? I know this is a thread about what airbrushes one uses, and I hope it is OK for me to pose this beginner-type question here? Thanks for your time. 

 

First of all no need to apologize for posting a question, the overwhelming majority of people on these forums really enjoy helping each other. Also, I am by no means an expert so feel free to take anything I say with a grain of salt. As others have mentioned a good single action airbrush is the most straight forward to use and that is also what I learned with.  Almost any endevour that involves tools can certainly be made horribly frustrating with poor quality tools. Especially if you are not experienced enough to overcome the deficiencies in that tool. If you have the resources I would tend to start with a single action airbrush from one of the well known manufacturers. I actually have a friend who has consistently won in the most competitve catagories at IPMS nationals for many years and he still uses his trusty Badger 350 and Vallejo paints as far as I know. He just knows that tool and his materials frontwards and backwards and achieves amazing results. One other thing that I did not see unless I missed it is the type of air supply you are using. The cans of propellant are notorious for losing pressure as they are used due to the cooling of the expanding propellant when it leaves the can. If you are using a compressor and live in a humid climate then water traps/filters are a necessity (and good practice anywhere). It might also be a good idea to practice on some scrap plastic or an old kit you can use as a "test mule".  Some folks also use plastic signs from the local home center or you can purchase a large bag of plastic spoons to practice on. At least then you are not under the pressure of seeing your expensive (especially at 1/16 scale) kit with a paint job you are very unhappy with. Heck even cardboard can be used to practice on until you start feeling more comfortable. The first thing I tried to achieve when starting out was repeatability. Even if it was not a great result but it was repeatable then it seemed I started progressing. Also mentioned in this forum recently is the recommended practice of writing down the combination of paint/thinner/air pressure etc. that you use when you are trying a new combination. It can get overwhelming keeping track of all the details when you are trying to find what works best for your setup and skill level. I have never met a person that uses an airbrush that did not deal with these frustrations when they started and also on occasion even after they are very experienced. It is a deceptively complex process but that is also what makes it so rewarding when I happen to get it right! Time spent using the tool is the key and I predict you will get it figured out and spend a lot of enjoyable hours at the spray bench in the future.

This is one website that has a wealth of good general info on airbrushes...

https://sites.google.com/site/donsairbrushtips/

ScaleModeler_1973

Hello folks. In response to the thread question, I just use a $35 generic airbrush. But that may be part of my airbrushing problems (I'm thinking of buying a more expensive one). I have airbrushed for about twelve to fifteen sessions in my short armor scale model building experience, at both the 1/16th and 1/35th scales. I'm not encountering much 'success' by any standards. I have read thoroughly a couple of the FSM branded 'how to' airbrushing and scale model building instructional books. I've tried implementing what I see demonstrated in the books. But I often get derailed figuratively speaking early in a painting session (airbrush loses pressure, paint sometimes comes out in too narrow of a band (I've been using a .3 needle- for some reason in my early airbrushing, paint came out in a wide stream which let me cover the relatively larger size of my 1/16th scale Panther G, etc, but the last few sessions, it has only come out in a more needle like swath [no wider than the diameter of a No. 2 pencil]). I only have used acrylic paint thus far (Vallejo and a bit of Tamiya (thinned)). I do thoroughly clean my airbrush (shooting cleaner through it) and disassemble it (removing needle and other parts) after use.  I guess my long-winded question is how much of success with airbrushing (turning out quality finished paint jobs on one's scale models) is operator skill/talent and how much is attributable to the quality of the tools one uses (airbrush, compressor, paints, etc.)? I thought that I could invest in more expensive tools after gaining some skill with a cheaper setup. But maybe the best way to set oneself up for success with airbrushing is by buying/starting off with better tools (from the start)? I know this is a thread about what airbrushes one uses, and I hope it is OK for me to pose this beginner-type question here? Thanks for your time. 

 

If your pattern has changed that much then you probably aren't getting the nozzle tip as clean as you think you are. Or too, you could be not getting the same mix consistency in thinning the paint. Tamiya cleans up easy with some lacquer thinner or alcohol. But if you have dried paint inside that tip then regardless of the brand paint you may need to give that tip a good overnight soaking in lacquer thinner.

Usually you can give those less expensive airbrushes a little tune up and they spray fine. But indeed a Paasche H is pretty fool proof to get started airbrushing with by comparison .

ScaleModeler_1973

Hello folks. In response to the thread question, I just use a $35 generic airbrush. But that may be part of my airbrushing problems (I'm thinking of buying a more expensive one). .............. I guess my long-winded question is how much of success with airbrushing (turning out quality finished paint jobs on one's scale models) is operator skill/talent and how much is attributable to the quality of the tools one uses (airbrush, compressor, paints, etc.)? I thought that I could invest in more expensive tools after gaining some skill with a cheaper setup. But maybe the best way to set oneself up for success with airbrushing is by buying/starting off with better tools (from the start)? I know this is a thread about what airbrushes one uses, and I hope it is OK for me to pose this beginner-type question here? Thanks for your time. 

When I got back into modeling, I dug out my supplies from 30 years ago including a very basic Paasche airbrush.  I found it to be totally unsatisfactory for acrylics, so decided to invest in the two Iwata brushes in my OP.

I don't think I possess the inate artistic talent to become truly great in a creative sense.  On the other hand, I can say with a high level of confidence that the better quality equipment advanced me several rungs up the ladder very quickly.  There's still a lot to figure out in terms of thinning and technique, but that's a lot easier when you aren't fighting the equipment at the same time.  

ScaleModeler_1973, not sure what type of airbrush you're using right now, but when you're starting out you might consider a single-action siphon-feed airbrush like a Paasche H.  It is extremely easy to use and you control the width of the stream by adjusting the needle cap before shooting paint.  As you get more comfortable with that, then you can try moving to a double-action gravity-feed.  The latter of those is supposed to give you more versatility, but to be honest, I keep going back to the Paasche H I started with as a teenager...never really found a need for anything more complex.  As far as learning techniques goes, the best teacher is going to be experimentation on your own.  I have watched some of those instructional videos myself to see if I can pick something up that I hadn't thought of, but I just usually end up cringing at how much paint is getting thrown down all at once.  I definitely do things a little differently than some do them, and that's one of the reasons I like this hobby so much.  What works for somebody else might not work for you, and vice versa...and its all about individual preferences.

Hello folks. In response to the thread question, I just use a $35 generic airbrush. But that may be part of my airbrushing problems (I'm thinking of buying a more expensive one). I have airbrushed for about twelve to fifteen sessions in my short armor scale model building experience, at both the 1/16th and 1/35th scales. I'm not encountering much 'success' by any standards. I have read thoroughly a couple of the FSM branded 'how to' airbrushing and scale model building instructional books. I've tried implementing what I see demonstrated in the books. But I often get derailed figuratively speaking early in a painting session (airbrush loses pressure, paint sometimes comes out in too narrow of a band (I've been using a .3 needle- for some reason in my early airbrushing, paint came out in a wide stream which let me cover the relatively larger size of my 1/16th scale Panther G, etc, but the last few sessions, it has only come out in a more needle like swath [no wider than the diameter of a No. 2 pencil]). I only have used acrylic paint thus far (Vallejo and a bit of Tamiya (thinned)). I do thoroughly clean my airbrush (shooting cleaner through it) and disassemble it (removing needle and other parts) after use.  I guess my long-winded question is how much of success with airbrushing (turning out quality finished paint jobs on one's scale models) is operator skill/talent and how much is attributable to the quality of the tools one uses (airbrush, compressor, paints, etc.)? I thought that I could invest in more expensive tools after gaining some skill with a cheaper setup. But maybe the best way to set oneself up for success with airbrushing is by buying/starting off with better tools (from the start)? I know this is a thread about what airbrushes one uses, and I hope it is OK for me to pose this beginner-type question here? Thanks for your time. 

MJY65

I could be mistaken, but I don't think the HP-CS has any finer needle options. It comes with the .35 and parts are available for .5.

That is my understanding as well.

Speaking of fine tips, here's an experiment. On your HP-TH, take off the fan-pattern head and mount the regular one. Then mess with the HP-TH and see how fine of a pattern/line you can manage.

Might just change your thinking about needing a finer airbrush. Or not.

patrick206

I agree with other posts, your HP-CS is certainly capable of doing whatever job you require. Mostly a matter of acquiring the ideal needle/nozzle combination, then finding the right paint mixture. Experimenting will get you there. 

I could be mistaken, but I don't think the HP-CS has any finer needle options.  It comes with the .35 and parts are available for .5.  I do plan to try some additional thinner and backing off pressure.