STYNYLREZ question

Tojo72

 

 

Bakster

 

 

Greg

Vallejo Model Color is by far my favorite acrylic for hand-brushing, and though I can't speak on the AK

 

 

Ditto.

 

 

 

 

Yes,also Mission Model hand brushes pretty good too.

 

Stylnrez Is a great primer and it is one I use all the time. Not the issue the OP and other posters are having is one that  always happens with paints that are made to be airbrushed.

With airbrush ready paints the colour pigment is so finely ground that it is like dust, talcum powder etc. Also the medium that it is bixed with is a thin medium and the result is a sprayable from the bottle product (some people do like to further dilute.

It does say you can brush paint on the bottle, which you can, but the results will NEVER come close to using the colour through your airbrush.

The above is, for example, Vallejo Model Air. Vallejo Model Color is formulated for paint brush use only and is a much thickoer paint which gives great results from a paint brush, but in an airbrush just cloggs it up because it does not have the ability to flow like its brother. You can thin this paint to the same consistency of model air... but why the need?

The rule is simple. Airbrush ready paints for airbrushes  NOT paintbrushes. This does not mean that you can not slap some on with a paintbrush, but you will never get what you are looking for.

Change your nozzle for a finer one and get on with the job in  hand!!!

Bakster

 

 

Greg

Vallejo Model Color is by far my favorite acrylic for hand-brushing, and though I can't speak on the AK

 

 

Ditto.

 

Yes,also Mission Model hand brushes pretty good too.

Greg

Vallejo Model Color is by far my favorite acrylic for hand-brushing, and though I can't speak on the AK

Ditto.

oldermodelguy

 My next test session is Stynylrez with sprayed Tamya LP lacquer.

This test is now complete. It went very well. I've found that Tamiya LP lacquer thinned with Mr Leveling thinner is a mild paint. Not only did it go well over Stynylrez and bare plastic but even over the brush painted copper I just did a few days ago, which is Testors enamel. All without crazing. The only issue is the typical Tamiya and wishing for a broader color range.

And this time I used my Badger 200 and favorite .25 tip and needle. Very fine atomization. The paint is LP-1 gloss black cut a really solid 1-1 if not slightly more.

There are guys in these forums who brush paint unbelievably well and kudos to them for it, it didn't come without a lot of experience and knowledge! I'm not that guy but I am willing to share what I do know works for me. There are at least a couple if not more what I would classify as expert brush painters here.

That said, there are people here who just plain and simply hate Vallejo paints. They have their reasons and so be it. I'm not that guy either, I haven't had trouble with either MC or MA airbrushed nor MC brushed. I wouldn't brush MA, never tried but it doesn't even look the part.

Stynylrez should do fine with both acrylics and enamels. My next test session is Stynylrez with sprayed Tamya LP lacquer. I know that I'm not a big fan of hot automotive lacquers over it because I have gotten sand scratch swelling with it. Not severe, a light scuff and added coats and all was fine but now I don't trust it with hot lacquer. but I have Mr Color lacquer primer for that anyway. Not to mention I'm not a fan of hot lacquer to begin with lol. I've sprayed the LP to bare plastic and it came out beautiful. I just haven't gotten around to testing it with primers yet. I'm not expecting anything weird to happen.

Interesting. Thanks for the test and report, OMG.

I too thought we were talking about hand-brushing enamel over Stynylrez, but on yet another read of mrchntmarine's OP, I see that you also mentioned AK and Model Color.

Vallejo Model Color is by far my favorite acrylic for hand-brushing, and though I can't speak on the AK, I would think it would lay down great over a base primer coat of Stynylrez. I've done it, but only over small parts as I tend to a/b almost everything.

Good luck with your future brush-painting sessions. I admire you folks who brush paint quite a bit. I'm not very good at it and count on the Vallejo Model Color to help make up for my lack of skills.

oldermodelguy

OMS: Odorless Mineral Spirits.  Whenever I brush enamels that's what I use. Course the name is misleading, it should be Less Odor Mineral Spirits because it's not totally odorless. It's also not very offensive compared to some thinners.

I've brushed acrylics over Stynylrez many times. I thin them a little in various different ways according to the paint I'm using. Also I've brushed it over Stynlyrez that was either sprayed or brushed on fwiw.

 I did the above test ( further up in the messages) for Testors enamel over Stynylrez since the op was about enamel brushed over Stynylrez, plus to satisfy my own curious mind for my own purpose ( project). And PTL if it helps someone else.

Edit: less than 24 hours later it passed the blue painters tape test. The plastic by the way was scuffed up with 1500 micro mesh pad before priming. The primer itself while very smooth when dry I did not scuff.

 

I concluded yesterday that this combo does not scratch easy. I'm sure it can be gouged up with tools but I just used my fingernail.

So this concludes my brushed Testors enamel on sprayed stynylrez test that I stated I would do.

OMS: Odorless Mineral Spirits.  Whenever I brush enamels that's what I use. Course the name is misleading, it should be Less Odor Mineral Spirits because it's not totally odorless. It's also not very offensive compared to some thinners.

I've brushed acrylics over Stynylrez many times. I thin them a little in various different ways according to the paint I'm using. Also I've brushed it over Stynlyrez that was either sprayed or brushed on fwiw.

 I did the above test ( further up in the messages) for Testors enamel over Stynylrez since the op was about enamel brushed over Stynylrez, plus to satisfy my own curious mind for my own purpose ( project). And PTL if it helps someone else.

Edit: less than 24 hours later it passed the blue painters tape test. The plastic by the way was scuffed up with 1500 micro mesh pad before priming. The primer itself while very smooth when dry I did not scuff.

thanks guys.  Whats OMS??

As OMG said, i am referring to brushing mostly acrylics over airbrushed Stynylrez (i wish they would change the name - i can NEVER remember how to spell it).  haha. 

Appreciate the test.  Getting ready to start another project and ill be spraying Stynylrez and doing some brushing for sure so ill update as time goes on - im in no rush so it might be awhile.  But i apreciate the feedback and testing.  There are so many variables when it comes to painting and do's and donts, i didnt know if there was some unwritten rule about spraying being the primary overcoat applicator when it come to this primer...

Of course it may look better, but good to know that brushing is ok too.  If it works for you, it should be ok for me too.  Paint type, brush type, thinner, etc., lots to take into account and im sure my brushing technique is not the best.   But im working on it.

This went really quick ( only one zoom meeting this morning from 6-7 am) having free time.

So I sprayed black Stynylrez straight from the bottle and dehydrated that for ten minutes after cleaning the air brush. I put some OMS in a pocket of a painting pallete. Shook and opened the Testors copper. Got a red sable brush from a set I have ( not an expensive brand), dipped the brush in the thinner, wiped some excess off, dipped into the copper and applied. Not bad, too much thinner. So dried the brush lightly with paper towel and got a bit more paint, that went right on. I also went over some black lacquer, fairly equal results. It's not the finest brush in the world that I picked so a bit of brush strokes showing. The part where the paint was too thin could use a second coat. Where I went over lacquer is a little more level but that was gloss top coat, still some brush strokes. But I had no trouble with any paint moving around or not sticking thus far.

Edit: And by the way that Testors is dry to the touch already. That's quick compared to the old stuff. It's not cured but not sticky either. This bottle has very little used from it, it's about two years old and basically full..

If I had my bench and painting stuff available, I'd be doing the same. This question has me intrigued.

Curious to see how it works out. I can't recall ever trying to brush paint anything over the top of Stynylrez. Been trying to figure out what might cause enamel to pool or separate over a primer coat of Stynylrez. I have limited experience with enamels (except for using it exclusively during kidhood)

Looking forward to hearing your results.

I'm doing my own test of this today because I have some 1/16 scale manifolds primed in Stynylrez that I intended to paint in copper Testors enamel. I'll prime something else and dry that then brush the Testors paint. I suspect it's going to go fine cut with a bit of mineral spirits but rather to find that out on scrap than on the manifolds. I have a convincing copper craft paint if it doesn't work out and I know acrylics brush fine to this primer. I also know enamels spray fine to it.

I'm getting a sense this thread may be about a brushing technique issue but will find out for sure by days end. I'll post back later.

oldermodelguy

Greg, I think you want to read from sentence 3 on in the op. But I've been kind of winging it on my underrstanding of the issue as well lol !

 

I managed to word my own comment backwards. I think I'll hang it up for now and try again later.

Greg, I think you want to read from sentence 3 on in the op. But I've been kind of winging it on my understanding of the issue as well lol !

I'm confused. (which is about normal)

Are you asking about airbrushing vs hand-brushing Stynylrez or hand-brushing some other paint over the primer coat?

I interpret your question as the former, but you and OMG seem to be discussing the latter.

About all I can say is when I brush enamel I cut it a little bit with odorless mineral spirits to where it flows off the brush nice or a lot with the same for a wash. I don't know without trying it what should be any different in putting that over stynylrez vs other surfaces. I might have to conduct an experiment and see what you are talking about.

It just seems as the paint is not adhering - thin.  

Mrchntmarine

Tks.  Seems good when i spray over it - no issues.  But its weird, when brusing over it, the paint doesnt seem to stick well for me - like the paint is being pushed off to the sides.

Is the paint moving around on the primer or the primer letting go of the plastic ?

oldermodelguy

I usually spray Stynylrez. I have brushed it but only either left it as my flat black, possibly too, done washes over it. Or painted acrylic over it bybrush. I've never tried brushing enamels over Stynylrez, which probably doesn't help you much. Additionally My brushing of Stynylrez has been mostly confined to smaller parts. Belts, radiator hoses and such.

I've had no adhesion problems on styrene, never tried it on resin. That would include spraying MM, Testors square bottle, decanted Rustoleum 2x enamels over it.

 

Tks.  Seems good when i spray over it - no issues.  But its weird, when brusing over it, the paint doesnt seem to stick well for me - like the paint is being pushed off to the sides.

I usually spray Stynylrez. I have brushed it but only either left it as my flat black, possibly too, done washes over it. Or painted acrylic over it by brush. I've never tried brushing enamels over Stynylrez, which probably doesn't help you much. Additionally My brushing of Stynylrez has been mostly confined to smaller parts. Belts, radiator hoses and such.

I've had no adhesion problems on styrene, never tried it on resin. That would include spraying MM, Testors square bottle, decanted Rustoleum 2x enamels over it.