Oil Paints

Way too much effort for me,especially when there are a huge variety of acrylic and lacquer paints available to use.

Drying can also be sped up with a drying box.  I made a simple one using a 60 w incandescent lightbulb (LEDs will not work).

Drying can be spead up some by using a product called Galkyd, it also hardens the shell of the paint a little bit, as oils tend to be soft.. But oils by nature spend a lifetime curing ! So initial touch time will be sooner is all. Gamblin clear gel can loosen up the opacity of colors and it too will have a slight effect on touch time. Safflower oil as a medium ( so paint will flow better) will decrease touch time a little, Walnut oil, which is a nice oil, will lengthen touch time.

While most oil paints have an association with linseed oil as the base, some have safflower, VanGogh paints being one, at least through some of their color range. These are more creamier paints than say Windsor Newton Winton series paints are, fwiw. Now you want stiffer paints for something like creating mountains with a palette knife, but someone might like the ready creamy paints for blending or creating a smooth finish. Course stiff paints can be made creamy by adding medium but creamy is tough to make stiff. This is all part of why I stated words like Aquired skill and horror show, lol. I personally love artist landscape painting on canvas in oils. But for models I use many other products other than oils.

Handling a model painted in oils may be problematic.  Oils by their nature may be better suited for figures where blending is a desired goal.   

Oil paints may take days/weeks for the linseed oil vehicle to evaporate and the paint to dry.  Handling the model during this time may lead to smudges and fingerprints (not that it doesn't happen with other paints).  

Oil paints come in fewer colors than model paints.  Getting to a desired color will require mixing & matching.  

Not saying that it can't be done, but the effort required may not be worth the effort

I know how to do blending well on canvas using artis oils, in a process called wet on wet. It's great for blended skies, sunsets or rises, water and reflections in water etc. Exactly how to apply that to an entire model would be something of an aquired skill, given the hard surface.. But it certainly could be appealing if done right in the correct situation. Say a base color fading off to something faded or some such thing. It could be great. But it's also a whole new learning process. That's why my analogy of a horror show. Certainly not that it can't be done though.

Dear Martyhh.  I watched a video on David Damek's youtube channel (PLASMO) where he demonstrates painting an airplane using artist oil paints and a brush.  This guy is a genius and his work is impeccable. You can see his demonstration here:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BitmaECqO30

At the very least it's food for thought.

Good Luck.

Martyhh

I was wondering what the pluses and minuses are for using oil paints. Can one paint an entire model with oil paints, and are they amenable to brush painting?

Assuming that by 'oil paints' you mean artists-type oils, here's my :

In my opinion the chief virtue of oils are their blendability. You can get very subtle shadings and gradations of colors with relative ease (and a minimum of experience), and because they don't 'flow' like liquid paints do, they're easier for the novice to control.

Those features lend themselves particularly well to painting things like figures. I have done many figures, from 90mm down to 1/72, entirely in oils -- where things like skin tones, shading, and tiny details (like eyes, eyebrows and facial topography) are pretty easy to master using small-tip brushes. For clothing and uniforms, both textures, shading and precise details like insignia are often easier to render using oils, and the intense colors available make such details stand out to the observer.

I have also used oils a lot for weathering, where their blendability and ease of techniques like dry-brushing are tailor-made. You can apply oils and wipe them away to leave what is essentially a wash -- or brush them down so thinly as to be a transparent glaze. Both of those can of course be done with conventional hobby paints, but those require thinning: and when you start adding solvents to paints, weird things can happen. With oils, they are basically pre-thinned, which leaves one less 'x factor' to deal with.

Finally (I know it seems like this will never end ), oils lend themselves well to small details of any sort on models: say, tools on armor, or engines, landing gear and tires on aircraft. What they do less well is to lay down large areas of even color of the type typically seen on 'paint schemes' for vehicles, planes and ships. Not impossible, by any means, but those effects are IMHO more easily accomplished with more traditional hobby paints and methods.

Main drawback of oils, of course, is that they tend to be slow-drying; though in the minute quantities used for most weathering and detail work, that's not really that much of a problem, broadly comparable to enamels and such.

End of rant. 

The topic of oil paints is multifaceted to say the least. They are meant to be brushed though. In modeling oil paints are most popularly used thinned down for the use of applying accent washes and such. But they are far from the only types of paints to be used for that purpose.

I personally feel that trying to paint an entire model in oils could be related well to something akin to partaking in a horror show ! But hey, someone may do it and like it for all I know. Now oil painting artist oils on canvas is something I enjoy.

Of course there is the category of solvent based enamels and they technically have oil in them. That's another matter all together. And while somewhat fading in use, are an old standby used on painting models, whether sprayed or brushed. Most of us older folks cut our model painting teeth using those. And there is nothing wrong with them still. I'm painting a 34 Ford pickup in Testors enamel that I blended the color for myself. Airbrushed though. The fenders are already done in lacquer and the body primed waiting for the enamel color coat.