Problems with Testor's Model Master Acryl acrylics

I have been experimenting with Testors Acryl paints and they seem to work best thinned with Testors own "Universal" brand of thinner. It seems that the Acrylic formula Testors uses can be effected if water or Windex or anything else is used making it less likely to adhere to plastic.  Its something to do with paint chemistry.

I prime with Vallejo Acrylic Polyurethanes and then use acrylics and have had no issues.  I always give the paint (both primer and the color) a full 24 hours to "cure".

John

I agree with chuck314d - I, too, use Testors universal thinner as well. Never had any problems whatsoever.

This is a zombie thread that had been dead for 10 years!!!

....one of those curiosities I've noticed about internet forums. On the one hand you have the "you do realize this is an old thread" crowd, and then on the other side of the coin ya have the "I wish people would learn to use the darn search function" bunch .... just an observance! 

To me, just so long as the passage of time hasn't rendered the topic irrelevant, folks can resurrect 'em forever as far as I'm concerned. 

This is a sort of Zombie solution.

Brett Green on Hyperscale had an article about the perfect thinner for Polly Scale paints. He used Polly Scale clear for his thinner.  So, I got a bunch of Aeromaster clears a few days ago,,,,and if I mix 2 parts MM paint to 1 part Aeromaster clear,,,,I get a paint that is very near to Polly Scale Acrylic in performance.

If you have a HobbyTown near you, you might be able to get some of the last bottles of Polly Scale clears to help make your MM Acrylics behave more like PS does.

Or just use a good quality primer under it, like the Vallejo PolyUrethane or Alclad II stuff, then thin with Testors' thinner, with an Extender/Slow Dry in the cup/jar.

I use my MM right alongside the PS and Aeromaster paints, using the same methods,,,,,,and it works.

Rex

I wonder if maybe the problem is with how the paint is being applied.

When I airbrushed Polly Scale I would usually apply a couple light coats first and then after they dried I would spray on heavier coats. I thinned the Polly scale with distilled water only.

Testors Acryl seems to work better if the first coats go on "wet" and are only thinned with Testors Universal thinner. Using water or anything else seems to affect the adhesion.

Sorry to hijack the thread but Kolja94 I have had great success with humbrol flat white and floquil (lacquer) reefer white. Both spray and cover well.

Acrylics always need a primer first.

JMorgan

Acrylics always need a primer first.

That is very dependant upon the surface being painted and the acrylic paint used. If painting on straight styrene (airbrushing), Gunze Aqueous or Tamiya do not need primer. If you are airbrushing over resin, white metal or brass, then primer is best used first.