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Problems with Testor's Model Master Acryl acrylics

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  • Member since
    April 2014
Posted by pistonplanes on Saturday, April 12, 2014 11:24 PM
Use an enamel or lacquer primer. I prefer mr surfacer 1200 cut fifty/fifty with leveling thinner. Dries faster than enamel. Just use a respirator. Never have had acrylics pull off a lacquer or emamel base.
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Wednesday, April 2, 2014 5:37 PM

 

JMorgan

Acrylics always need a primer first.

That is very dependant upon the surface being painted and the acrylic paint used. If painting on straight styrene (airbrushing), Gunze Aqueous or Tamiya do not need primer. If you are airbrushing over resin, white metal or brass, then primer is best used first.

 

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  • Member since
    January 2014
Posted by Silver on Wednesday, April 2, 2014 2:06 PM
Acrylics do well on single color projects .Also on single color armor.
  • Member since
    January 2014
Posted by Silver on Wednesday, April 2, 2014 2:02 PM
I had that problem.Thats why I use 90% enamel paints.I use acrylics on cockpits, figures , and wheel wells,Acrylics and all other water base paints will not match enamels.
  • Member since
    August 2012
Posted by JMorgan on Sunday, March 9, 2014 12:46 AM

Acrylics always need a primer first.

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Adelaide, Australia
Posted by zapme on Saturday, March 8, 2014 10:51 PM

Sorry to hijack the thread but Kolja94 I have had great success with humbrol flat white and floquil (lacquer) reefer white. Both spray and cover well.

 

My Blog - leoslatestbuilds.blogspot.com

On the workbench: 1/72 Airfix De Havilland DH88 Comet , 1/35 Trumpeter M1A1, 1/35 Tamiya Tyrannosaurus Rex, 1/8 (?) vinyl C3PO brand unknown

 

  • Member since
    May 2012
Posted by chuck314d on Saturday, March 8, 2014 9:31 PM

I wonder if maybe the problem is with how the paint is being applied.

When I airbrushed Polly Scale I would usually apply a couple light coats first and then after they dried I would spray on heavier coats. I thinned the Polly scale with distilled water only.

Testors Acryl seems to work better if the first coats go on "wet" and are only thinned with Testors Universal thinner. Using water or anything else seems to affect the adhesion.

  • Member since
    March 2005
  • From: near Nashville, TN
Posted by TarnShip on Sunday, February 2, 2014 3:42 PM

This is a sort of Zombie solution.

Brett Green on Hyperscale had an article about the perfect thinner for Polly Scale paints. He used Polly Scale clear for his thinner.  So, I got a bunch of Aeromaster clears a few days ago,,,,and if I mix 2 parts MM paint to 1 part Aeromaster clear,,,,I get a paint that is very near to Polly Scale Acrylic in performance.

If you have a HobbyTown near you, you might be able to get some of the last bottles of Polly Scale clears to help make your MM Acrylics behave more like PS does.

Or just use a good quality primer under it, like the Vallejo PolyUrethane or Alclad II stuff, then thin with Testors' thinner, with an Extender/Slow Dry in the cup/jar.

I use my MM right alongside the PS and Aeromaster paints, using the same methods,,,,,,and it works.

Rex

almost gone

  • Member since
    November 2006
Posted by Bearcat57 on Saturday, February 1, 2014 11:21 PM

....one of those curiosities I've noticed about internet forums. On the one hand you have the "you do realize this is an old thread" crowd, and then on the other side of the coin ya have the "I wish people would learn to use the darn search function" bunch Tongue Tied.... just an observance! 

To me, just so long as the passage of time hasn't rendered the topic irrelevant, folks can resurrect 'em forever as far as I'm concerned. Big Smile

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Saturday, February 1, 2014 10:24 PM

This is a zombie thread that had been dead for 10 years!!!

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    November 2006
Posted by Bearcat57 on Saturday, February 1, 2014 6:35 PM
I know they've received a lot of negative press, but as long as I prime the surface and use the Testor's brand thinner, I don't seem to have too many problems with MM Acryls. No more so than with Tamiya.
  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Friday, January 31, 2014 9:58 PM

I agree with chuck314d - I, too, use Testors universal thinner as well. Never had any problems whatsoever.

  • Member since
    May 2012
  • From: Pennsylvania
Posted by pilotjohn on Friday, January 31, 2014 9:26 PM

I prime with Vallejo Acrylic Polyurethanes and then use acrylics and have had no issues.  I always give the paint (both primer and the color) a full 24 hours to "cure".

John

  • Member since
    May 2012
Posted by chuck314d on Thursday, January 30, 2014 8:56 PM

I have been experimenting with Testors Acryl paints and they seem to work best thinned with Testors own "Universal" brand of thinner. It seems that the Acrylic formula Testors uses can be effected if water or Windex or anything else is used making it less likely to adhere to plastic.  Its something to do with paint chemistry.

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Hayward, CA
Posted by MikeV on Saturday, January 3, 2004 2:47 PM
Acrylics are notorius for this problem and it is usually attributed to no "tooth" for the paint to adhere to and that is why people have better results with the paint sticking to a primed surface which is slightly rough textured. Spraying over smooth plastic with acrylics is a gamble as the acrylic paint has no chemicals to bond to the plastic as do lacquers and enamels. If you don't want to prime you could also carefully scuff the surface of the model with a green Scotchbrite pad to put light scratches in the surface for the paint to adhere to better.

Mike

Wisdom is the right use of knowledge. To know is not to be wise. Many men know a great deal, and are all the greater fools for it. There is no fool so great a fool as a knowing fool. But to know how to use knowledge is to have wisdom. " Charles Spurgeon
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, January 3, 2004 2:28 PM
I know this is a late post, but perhaps it may be useful.

I have used masking tape from an art supply store. It is white and is meant to not fall apart do to age (like your average masking tape)

I painted a WarHammer model with the Testors Acryl paint. The only prep I did was to was the parts before painting.

I noticed no lifting of paint after it had cured. I even pressed down the tape and lifting it and did not bring up paint.

Maybe it is the tape or I am just lucky. I am too lazy to lay down a coat of primer.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, June 27, 2003 9:32 PM
I've been using Testors Acryl line on my pewter Battlemecs with great sucess. I have , however been using Armory and Citadel laquer primer first. The Acryl paint seems to stick with these primers VERY well. Even while decaling the figures, the paint doesn't rub off or anything, even with the use of Microsol.
I use the Acryl clear flat and/or gloss over the top of them also.Cool [8D]
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Harrisburg, PA
Posted by Lufbery on Friday, June 27, 2003 8:11 AM
I tried that brand of white a few days ago (and even started a thread). I'm glad to hear that a good primer and lots of thin coats will work. :)

I'm a little concerned with using a primer. I'm working in 1/72 scale, and I don't want the primer to fill in the small, recessed details. Am I worrying too much?

Also, when you guys talk about primers, are you talking about something you buy to airbrush, or something out of a can?

Regards,

-Drew

-Drew

Build what you like; like what you build.

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, June 26, 2003 8:32 PM
I'm not crazy about Testors acrylic white, but with proper preparation and priming, and lots of thin coats, it's worked just fine. It is, though, the paint I least like to use.
Glenn
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, June 26, 2003 8:08 PM
I had the same problems and that is the reason that I went back to enamels. But reading KMaier66 reply I will try again. Because I hate the fumes from the enamel paints.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Oak Harbor, WA
Posted by Kolja94 on Friday, June 13, 2003 5:37 PM
I haven't had any problems with Testors Acryl at all - well, aside from the white, but then I've had troubles with lots of brands' whites (both acrylic and enamel).

Karl

  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by KMaier66 on Friday, June 13, 2003 3:27 PM
I have had some similar experiences when I switched from enamel to acrylic paints, but I have also basically worked through them.
I found that by washing the parts first with warm soapy water and leeting them air dry, followed by priming with Testors enamel primer or grey enamel, that I could avoid almost all problems with Acryl paints lifting off of my models. I also spray a coat or two of Future floor polish on my models after painting is completed and has had time to dry, and then again after applying my decals. Future gives you a nice smooth surface and also protects the model.
I hope this helps some.

Karl
  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: Seattle, WA
Posted by RonUSMC on Thursday, June 12, 2003 7:48 AM
Make sure the plastic is clean. Also, try to use a primer.

I primed and painted a model then messed up the paint job.... the only way I could get the paint off of the kit was sanding. I soaked it for 4 hours in a detergent solution... nothing..... Used Lacquer Cleaner... Enamel Cleaner... alcohol... it was insane.. nothing would pull that paint off.

I used Testors White Primer and some paint, btw.

I use Testors exclusively for everything.
http://finescalegallery.com Active Kits: 1/48 AM Avenger 1/35 Sd.Kfz 251 Ausf C
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Racing capital of the world- Indy
Posted by kaleu on Wednesday, June 11, 2003 2:33 PM
I've had the same problems. I couldn't find a way to correct this problem so now when I use acrylics I use Tamiya or PollyScale. They work much better than Model Master acrylics.
Erik "Don't fruit the beer." Newest model buys: More than I care to think about. It's time for a support group.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Problems with Testor's Model Master Acryl acrylics
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, June 11, 2003 7:17 AM
Having recently returned to modeling, I stocked up on paints. I decided I would use Testor's Acryl line, as I had heard good things about the paint (airbrush ready, not much agitation required), and it had an exceptionally broad range of colors.

I have since run into two catastrophic problems:
1. Even low tack tape can lift up this paint. Surface was washed to remove mold release agents, primed and cured, then painted and cured.
2. Water from a tap washed away paint. Again, Surface was washed to remove mold release agents, primed and cured, then painted and cured.

Anyone else had this problem?
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