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RE: Priming my model

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  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Sunday, July 10, 2005 7:37 AM
Claude - it would work somewhat, but the primer does have a better surface for the paint to adhere to. You can even use the Krylon primer found at WalMart if you want. At about $4 for a huge can it's a bargain! The auto primers come in different grades and you can get them at Auto Zones and Pep Boys etc... Tamiya makes a spray can version of their primer as well.

Ares - good luck to you! I've been able to spot things not visible before primering and it's helped make my end results look better!
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, July 10, 2005 12:09 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by tho9900

ares - small gaps or cracks in the seam line missed while puttying and sanding show up like a sore thumb! Also uneven sanding of the leading edges on the wings and such stand out too.




ohh got it. thatd explain it; untill my next model I always did cars and never used putty. cars are 1 peice on the body atleast; so priming it doesnt really show much.

you guys have made me want to be a better builder though; good to know about the primer. itll come in handy for my warthog and putty thats arriving on monday :) so exciting.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, July 9, 2005 6:37 PM
Would that MM light Ghost Gray also work as a primer before using Acrylic paints?? Im also concerned about paint adhesion to the styrne plastic and heard that enamel bonds better to plastic.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, July 9, 2005 5:05 PM
I like to do spot priming with MM enamel Light Ghost Gray. It doesn't dry purely flat and works great for making sure you have a smooth surface where you did bodywork.
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Saturday, July 9, 2005 2:22 PM
ares - small gaps or cracks in the seam line missed while puttying and sanding show up like a sore thumb! Also uneven sanding of the leading edges on the wings and such stand out too.

---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, July 9, 2005 1:38 PM
how does that work? I always wondered; I always prime; but never see the flaws after paint that i didnt see before. most any primer Ive seen is very flat; so you cant see distortion in the reflection. so what is it your looking for in the primer?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, July 8, 2005 7:13 AM
Originally posted by MusicCity

You don't "Have" to prime before painting, even with enamel, but I prefer to. Priming allows me to see flaws that I'd otherwise miss and fix them before I put a lot of effort into a final paint job.
/quote]
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  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: USA
Posted by MusicCity on Thursday, July 7, 2005 9:48 PM
You don't "Have" to prime before painting, even with enamel, but I prefer to. Priming allows me to see flaws that I'd otherwise miss and fix them before I put a lot of effort into a final paint job.

A light primer will sometimes make the final coat slightly lighter while a dark primer will sometimes make it slightly darker. If the paint is truly opaque this is usually not a big problem. For the Blues I'd probably use something like a medium gray color.
Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page
  • Member since
    June 2005
  • From: Michigan
Posted by Pukindog on Thursday, July 7, 2005 8:30 PM
Hi Everyone,
I was wondering, When it comes time to prime my model, what would be the right color primer to use? Someone on another forum told me that I don't have to prime under a enamel finish, but I am worried that the finish color will turn out to dark. The color of the plastic is a dark gray, and I will be painting the model in Blue Angel blue finish. Any help greatly appreciated.

Thank you,
Evolution
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