Washes

Wow Renarts, that's the most detailed explanation I've ever seen of the difference between dullcote and glosscote! Very cool!

Gloss coats have less particulate matter or solids in them, hence the reason they are gloss. They have a higher medium content so that when they dry, the medium comes to the surface and hardens making the surface smoth and more light reflective as a result. Flat coats or matte colors have more particulate or solids, breaking up the surface on the microscopic level. Light is scattered when it reflects off the surface giving the appearance of a dull finish. The result of a matte or flat coat though is more "tooth" to the surface which makes it harder to clean up later (the difference being maybe an extra stroke or two with a q-tip if using oils). It will not "run" (as kaleu pointed out) as far either as it would on a gloss surface and will not come away as clean (again as a result of surface "tooth").

Mike

HEY,
Check out the june issue of FSM. The covor story may help you.

Randy

A glossy (slick) surface helps the wash flow along the seams and lines of a vehicle. You could dullcote the vehicle, then apply a wash, but it's been my experience that a slicker surface is easier to wash than a non slick surface.

Kaleu: Why glosscote? Could you use dullcote to get the same effect?

Eric
I have had good results using an acrylic base coat followed by a dilute oil wash. The excess oil can be cleaned off with a brush dipped in clean thinner. Just keep the brush clean or you will just push the wash around instead of removing it. It takes some practice, but that is what modeling is all about. I dont do the all over wash, usually I just wash panel lines and details that I want to stand out. To me, black doesnt work as well as dark grays or browns, it seems unnatural. Like Kaleu said, get some old kits and practice, practice, practice.

I paint the tank with enamels, then seal it with glosscote, then the wash. There are two types of washes you can use on your model: an all over wash or a pin wash. The pin wash is applied using a very small, pointed brush to the seams and lines of a model. The wash is drawn along the seams and lines of a kit by means of capillary action. This is the method that I prefer using on my kits. The all over wash is applied using a larger brush and covers the entire vehicle. Some modellers will then clean off the excess wash, some don't. It is entirely up to you. The ratio of paint to thinner is generally 80-20%. I use model paints and oils bought from an arts supply store. I use black, brown, raw umber, raw sienna and burnt umber. The best way to find out what type of wash you like best is to buy some older, cheaper kits and practice on them.