Clearcoats

I'll try to answer these questions in order based on my limited experience with Microscale:

Yes, they are milky in the bottle but dry clear;

I would recommend distilled water, but as to thinning it might be a trial and error experiment;

Many people glosscoat the entire model, but others only where the decals go.  I glosscoat the entire model since I usually use a wash in the panel lines, and the gloss helps the wash flow.  I've also tried using Future floor polish as a setting solution for decals, with good results.  When I do this, I only use the Future where the decals will go.  However, I'll still apply a glosscoat over the entire model (including said decals) for the wash.  One reason I do it this way is to cut down on the number of glosscoats on the model so not to fill in those panel lines I will apply the wash to.  When I've done it this way, I've not a problem with any noticeable ring.  But as I said, I follow up with another glosscoat;

The coats are fairly durable and should hold up to some routine handling, but I'm not sure about polishing.

Now that I've said all this, I don't use Microscale gloss or flat anymore.  Personally, I use Future floor polish for my glosscoat and Pollyscale Clear Flat for my matte coat, which is an acrylic.

Hope this helps!

Mark

 

 

Personally I would do the whole model and not spot it. I use Model Master flat to seal all my models (planes ships armour)........I find it to be pretty tough.............gloss would probably be more suseptable to marks etc.  As a rule the acrylic will be milky before its dry. I would try to find others on here with experience in that very topcoat. Do not apply too thick. Use several light coats.