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Paasche Millennium Cleaning Question

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Paasche Millennium Cleaning Question
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, December 30, 2006 6:26 AM

Hi All

First off I hope you all had a great Christmas & I raise a glass of the good stuff to you all for New Year.

My wife was a trooper and braved the model shop to buy me a Paasche Millennium airbrush for my Christmas , now I believe this is a good model , the thing is I'm one of those people who started to airbrush with an Aztek 470 (with mixed results) so the whole cleaning thing is a bit of a mystery to me , I 'm so used to just stripping the noozle on the Aztek that a all metal brush is a scary prospect Sign - Dots [#dots]

All I want to know is how far do I strip the brush down after a spray session ?

and how do I clean it between colour changes say between RLM70 TO RLM 71 so not between black & white or anything to dramatic?

Any help or advice would be great

 

Cheers E

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Peoples Socialist Democratic Republic of Illinois
Posted by Triarius on Saturday, December 30, 2006 10:18 AM

Try searching the forums for "airbrush."

I don't use a Paasche Millennium, but the schematic looks similar to my T&C, except yours is a siphon feed. Generally, between coats of a different color, all you need to do is:

  1. Dump remaining paint, if any.
  2. Wipe out and rinse cup with appropriate solvent until reasonably clean
  3. Blow solvent through brush at ~15 psi or greater, backflushing occasionally. If it came with a larger bottle as well as a cup, putting a small amount of solvent in that makes this easier.
  4. Repeat 3. with clean solvent.

This whole process takes less than five minutes once you get the routine down. It works well for a given painting session provided you paint lighter colors first. If you need to paint a lighter color after a dark color (or a clear coat) you might want to clean more thoroughly per instructions that came with the brush. (If it didn't, I think you can get them for free from the Badgerairbrush.com site.

 Hope this helps.

Ross Martinek A little strangeness, now and then, is a good thing… Wink

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, December 30, 2006 5:55 PM

Paasche also has the cleaning instructions for that specific brush on their website.

 

E

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by air 5 on Wednesday, January 3, 2007 12:06 AM

I have a paache H-1, VL-1 and a badger 200. with those, I still want one more, a Badger 150G.

On all Three I have learned to strip them down and thoughly clean between colors. I use lacquer thinner on the enamals and a mix of rubbing alcohol and denatured alcohol(50/50), Q-tips and pipe cleaners On the paache H,leave I leave the air head alone, but frequenly check the O-ring for cracking. The VL and the Badger, pull the needles and disassemble the air heads on both this also means the paint cone, be very very careful here.  When all clean, reassemble.  It's tetiouse, but the results keep other paint colors from suddenly appearing on one of my white helicopters ( It happened ). 

Oh ya.  for all of you if you don't already know. lacquer thinner is an alcohol base and a degreaser( also a paint striper ) when using the material, when ( not if )it gets on your skin, it will degrease it,and leave it dry! I mean really DRY.  when painting enamals and cleaning I use latex gloves.  cheapest I found is at a warehouse store. hard ware or med supply place is also good.. Also keeps you hands clean and paint free.  just some advise

Good modeling

Air 5 is out.

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Peoples Socialist Democratic Republic of Illinois
Posted by Triarius on Wednesday, January 3, 2007 10:42 AM

It is a bit of a mis-statement to say that lacquer thinner is alcohol based. Lacquer thinner contains a variety of organic solvents, some of which are alcohols. The actual composition can vary rather distressingly from brand to brand and location to location.

Almost all organic solvents are lipophilic—meaning oil and fat loving. That makes them good defatting agents, which is why they dry your skin. But drying out your skin and possible dermatitis therefrom are relatively minor considerations compared to other toxicty issues for some of these solvents. The latter are the best reason to wear gloves and use adequate ventilation when handling solvents.

Also be aware that latex and nitrile gloves are not barriers to all solvents.

Ross Martinek A little strangeness, now and then, is a good thing… Wink

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