Dull Coat

When I was into figures, I used acrylics as a base under my oils and I usually let the acrylics dry 48 hrs before I overcoated them.

And I only apply Future over the decals if I am building a gloss finished model.  When the overcoating of decals first came into modeling, it didn't take too long to learn that if the decals weren't completly dry (or very old), the clear overcoating  (Dull Coat or Walthers DDV)would lift and wrinkle and literaly destroy them.  The secret is to treat them like a coat of paint and be sure they are completly dry before applying the over coat (again, a minimum of 24 hrs between application and overcoating) - at least that's what works for me. 

I've been wondering the same thing for a few days now. I'm brand new to acrylic paints, only having used enamels before. So how long should you wait to make sure the acrylics are completely cured before applying Dullcote?

As mentioned above, make sure the acrylic is fully cured first. As an added precaution, apply a layer of Future over the decals. Many many years ago, I sprayed a coat of Testors Dullcote over bare decals and was treated to the sight of the decals literally splitting and curling up before my eyes.

Go light on the Dullcote - don't apply it too heavily or I can guarantee it will eat your base coat and decals. Mist it on, one thin layer at a time and allow it to dry before applying the next. If in any doubt, test on scrap first.

DISCLAIMER: I don't use Dullcote (Testors) - I use Gunze Acrylic clear flat as a "flat" coat.

If the acrylic paint has cured completly you shouldn't have any problems with a reaction between the Dull Coat and the acrylics - and I've brush painted either Gloss Cote or Future on only the areas that the decals  and then spray coated the entire model w/dull clear flats of one brand or another on my armor models for years w/out any problems. (although I do use enamels)