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Moisture traps and moisture in the airbrush line

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  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Garland, TX
Moisture traps and moisture in the airbrush line
Posted by tabascojunkie on Sunday, July 29, 2007 12:06 AM

After reading a post somewhere the other day, I think I experienced moisture buildup in my AB hose.

I was camo'ing my doomed Do335, and I could not get a consistent paint flow for anything. I was using Model Master Acryl Dark Green and my Iwata Revolution. I've used several other Acryl paints with no trouble. This time I'd get the paint to flow for maybe 20 seconds and then it would start to stop up. I'd clean the tip and it would get a bit better but slow down again. At times I'd have the trigger pulled back halfway with hardly any paint coming out, and then GUSH, here comes the paint, but it looked a bit thinner and more transparent than I had mixed in the brush. I couldn't get any fine lines at all.

What does everybody think? Moisture buildup or something else?

 

 

And on moisture traps, what is required to be done with them, if anything, other than open the valve on the bottom every few minutes and blow out the water in it?

Thanks for any help-

Bruce. 

Bruce
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: USA
Posted by MusicCity on Sunday, July 29, 2007 12:53 PM

Nope, it's "Something Else".  You are experiencing "Tip Dry" which is common when using acrylics.  I also suspect that the reason it is drying so badly and the reason that you are seeing some come out thinner is for the same reason:  It isn't getting fully blended.

Use acrylic retarder or a different thinner to help with the "Tip Dry".  Mix your paint and reducer in a bottle or smooth cup and then pour it into the paint cup.  It is difficult to get thorough blending when you try and mix the paint and reducer in the paint cup on the airbrush.

I don't know anything about the Iwata line of airbrushes but yours may have to fine a nozzle.  The pigments in modeling paint are frequently quite large and won't flow well through very fine nozzles, especially when the needle is barely pulled back.  Might not be an issue, I'm just not familiar with that airbrush since all of mine are Badgers.

Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page
  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Sunday, July 29, 2007 1:53 PM
Yeah, classic tip dry symptoms. Moisture in the line wouldn't stop the flow of paint, it would merely (merely!?!) ruin the paint job.

So long folks!

  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Garland, TX
Posted by tabascojunkie on Sunday, July 29, 2007 3:24 PM

Thanks. I didn't know what the heck was going on. I've been airbrushing for a couple of years now I guess and I've never had that happen before. I've had to swab the needle with a Q-tip, but never fought it like I had to that time.

What advice for preventing this, on top of mixing outside the brush?

Bruce
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: USA
Posted by MusicCity on Sunday, July 29, 2007 8:27 PM

What advice for preventing this, on top of mixing outside the brush?

As I mentioned:

Use acrylic retarder or a different thinner to help with the "Tip Dry".

Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page
  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Garland, TX
Posted by tabascojunkie on Sunday, July 29, 2007 9:11 PM
What's agood thinner for Model Master Acryl other than the MM brand thinner? That's the only paint I've had the trouble with.
Bruce
  • Member since
    January 2006
  • From: Baton Rouge, Snake Central
Posted by PatlaborUnit1 on Sunday, July 29, 2007 10:15 PM

I have NEVER had success with MM Acryl Dark Green!

Ever!

I switch to Enamel for my dark green if I am using Acryl. But nine times out of ten I get fed up messign with the Acryl and grab my Tamiya.

David

 

Build to please yourself, and don't worry about what others think! TI 4019 Jolly Roger Squadron, 501st Legion
  • Member since
    October 2005
  • From: Garland, TX
Posted by tabascojunkie on Sunday, July 29, 2007 11:06 PM

Before the demise of my 335 I was going to use Vallejo Game Color Cayman Green to go over the screwed up dark green, since I've never had trouble with Vallejos.

I really like a lot of Tamiya's colors and they work with the airbrush really well, but I just can't seem to get a decent gloss coat to go over them, which is why I've been experimenting with some other paints like Acryl. Maybe I'll ask a question about that.

I'm gonna play with some Vallejos and see how they turn out over a primer. I've used them plenty on minis, but models have too much area that gets handled and they have a lot of rub off from the little bit I've used them on any models. 

Bruce
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