Um, this isn't the Dark Side—at least not as far as your liver, lungs, and CNS are concerned.
Nevertheless, to paraphrase what I've often repeated: never treat any chemical as "safe." It sounds like your spraybooth is adequate, and you may not need the respirator. However, considering your recent medical history, using it anyway is definitely a good idea.
Acrylics are generally low odor, and most of the solvents are relatively "mild"—alcohols and or water. However, there are still things in them you don't want in or on your body.
I have two glass jars with tight fitting plastic lids that I use when cleaning. One is 3/4 filled with Windex. Paint cups, mixing cups, my filter screen and measuring/dispensing tools go into that jar when I finish with them. When I'm done painting, I take the jar and a toothbrush to the sink, clean and rinse the tools (about 5 minutes) and put the lid on the jar. Then I go to the next color.
To clean the airbrush between colors, I dump whatever paint is left into a sludge container (a disposable plastic, metal, or glass container. I recommend glass because it is easiest to clean when it gets really cruddy) in my spraybooth, rinse with tap water, and dump that into the sludge. Then I blow and backflush with Windex, followed by a distilled or deionized water rinse, blow dry, and I'm ready for the next color. Elapsed time another 5 minutes, tops (more like 2).
When done for the day, I dump my wash container into the second jar, and place it where it will not be disturbed. The heavier stuff (mostly pigment) settles to the bottom, and I can pour off the relatively clean stuff into the original wash jar and discard the sludge. This keeps the wash jar clean so that I'm not cleaning things in sludge. If I won't be painting for awhile, I strip and clean the airbrush. That takes about 15 minutes in the sink.
When the Windex gets too dirty, I just dump it down the drain, as it is essentially biodegradable. Same with the sludge unless its heavy, in which case I put it in a waxed paper cup and let it dry hard. When the cup is full of dried sludge, it goes in the trash.
I don't care for MM Acryl, but that is a matter of personal preference. I, too, like Tamiya, and I'm a big fan of Polly Scale. I recommend you try several brands and find one or two you like.
Some other tips: Use an acrylic retarder to prevent the dreaded "tip dry." Some proprietary thinners already include a retarder (Tamiya, for example). Only use a proprietary thinner with its brand of paint, or you may have compatibility problems. Acrylics dry fast but cure slowly, and are susceptible to very high humidity when spraying (they are water compatible, so this makes sense) and very low humidity (ditto).
Simple Green is another good cleaner for acrylics. A mixture of Windex and diluted Simple Green, called "magic"—is. Ethyl alcohol (or denatured) is also a good cleaner for some. Ethyl or denatured are also useful in small amounts as cosolvents in high humidity conditions, but that's an advanced technique. (How I wish FSM would publish my article on paint technology! Are you listening, Matt? )
Do read Aaron Skinner's article in November 2007. I've only skimmed it, but the reviews look very useful.
Enjoy! And don't hesitate to ask questions. There are no stupid questions, only confusing answers!