Paint Adhesion

dupes wrote:

Bgrigg wrote: Better yet, something in a bottle I can airbrush on? Rattle cans always scare me, I know I'm going to screw it up and put some sort of big run on my model...

You can decant the primer for airbrushing.  That's what I do.  It only takes about 5 minutes.  The benefit is that the primer in the can stays good forever.

Jesse

Bgrigg wrote:

I use Tamiya Acrylics and rarely prime. So I caved and bought a big rattle can of Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, and WOW does that stuff ever work!

Same here for me - Tamiya Acrylics and Tamiya Masking Tape. 

Is there some other commercially available primer (i.e., no-name brand) that's essentially the same thing as the Tamiya Fine Surface stuff?

Better yet, something in a bottle I can airbrush on? Rattle cans always scare me, I know I'm going to screw it up and put some sort of big run on my model...

I use Tamiya tape most of the time.  Be careful when you buy 3M Blue painters masking tape.  It comes in 3 different tacs, light adhesion, normal & heavy duty.  Only use the light adhesion for masking models.

Regards,  Rick 

You can also go over the model with a green Scotchbrite pad to put light scratches in the plastic to give the paint some "tooth" to adhere to.

Acryl is not as sturdy as Tamiya. 

You take an expensive model and all the supplies to build it, then add in your time which could be one hundred of hours on some models. I would never use 3m blue painters tape. I don't like spending $20 to mask a model believe me, however in the  big picture its worth it to buy hobby masking tape or para film M for its applications.

I use Pactra myself, buy 1/2 inch tape and use a clean pane of glass and a razor to custom cut it if neccesary.  

Always wash the styrene in diluted soapy luke warm water before beggining a model , and let paint coats dry for at least a day, don't rush it.  

I always prime with MM camo gray enamel, its light enough to really show flaws that need fixing.

Thanks for the quick replies guys! I think I'll start priming from now on. I've always thought of getting the Tamiya tape, but my LHS charges almost $8 a roll! I think I'm gonna try the electrical tape thing until I have to order some other things online, that way I won't kill the savings on the tape with the s&h.

I wonder what my wife would think if she walked in and saw me dabbing tape on my forhead? It sure makes for a wierd mental picture!

I think the Blue 3M tape is a little to strong in regards to its adhesion.  Here's a few solutions:

1. Use Tamiya's Masking Tape.  It has lower adhesion but costs more.
2. Use Black Vinyl Electrical Tape.  Testors actually recommends this.  I've used it before and it works fine.  Just don't leave it on the model for a long time.  It costs about $1.00 a roll.
3. Take the 3M tape and dab it on you forehead or the back of you hand a few times before putting in the model.  It will lower the adhesion.

The best choice to me is use Tamiya's Tape.  Priming, in my opinion, is a good thing to do before painting with acrylics.  I always use a lacquer based primer like Tamiya's.  I've never had lifting after I started priming my models.  I use both Tamiya Acrylics and Model Master Acryl paints.

Jesse

I use Tamiya Acrylics and rarely prime. I follow the same cleaning regimen. Recently I was building an AMT '53 Studebaker and the paint just wouldn't stay on! So I caved and bought a big rattle can of Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, and WOW does that stuff ever work!

I also use the Tamiya tape after experiencing some lift with the 3M Blue tape. 

Max,

MM acrylics gave me fits years ago with the same problems.  I now use Gunze acrylics almost exclusively and Tamiya tape for all of my masking and have not had the problem since.  The Tamiya tape costs a little more, but it's worth it to me.