Cleaning with Windex.....longevity

Im with daywalker and the other experts. I use Badger tools and have used ammonia/water and ammonia based cleaners for years when airbrushing acrylics. No problems. Ditto for the hydro-solvents like spirits. To me it's sort of a given - these tools were made for these things, but weren't made to be abused. Most will understand this, but Some need a  rock up the side of the head.

But, a real important point to be made here is that these tools need maintenance periodically.

I'm a single action guy, so I keep a few seals and tips/cones on hand. You should too. Its money well spent. I

Just for another "expert" opinion I contacted David Monnig at Coast Airbrush in Anaheim.

This guy knows airbrushes!

He said the following:

People have used it for years. It can attack the brush but so can all other acrylic cleaners. If you rinse with water right after the cleaner like you should always do anyway, I cant see it hurting the brush. People often think the inside of these brushes are plated , they're not ! Everyone wants to be a critic and a hero ! They might as well say that the paint itself can attack the brush because it can ! Everything breaks down over time . I still see people with brushes that are over 20 years old that use windex to this day. They are still working fine.

Bgrigg wrote:

All we need now is for Gip to come around and warn us of the dangers of breathing ammonia fumes and the subject can be closed!

Oh, I can do that too, but Gip has better credentials for that.

Triarius wrote:

The salt in human sweat is far more rapidly aggressive to the components of an air brush.

Darn, I was saving up a jar just for my airbrush!

Mike, Ken at Badger is absolutely correct. Ammonia is aggressive to just about everything, BUT it is also relatively unstable at STP, and quite volatile.

The salt in human sweat is far more rapidly aggressive to the components of an air brush.

I wouldn't leave Windex or any ammonia compound in prolonged contact with any metal any more than I would leave a salt solution in the same situation.

My particular airbrush does have rubber o-rings not teflon ones as my newer units do. Come to think of it even my Iwata has o-rings!

Soaking in anything even water can eventually etch at things, even metal. Thats why as you suggested, rinsing is prudent. I just wipe down and use air to remove residual cleaners from my brushes. 

Hard water...when I lived in Montana our water heaters only last two years tops, due to the hard water. Which crunched in your mouth.

The ammonia in Windex will affect the chrome finish by turning it black. If you left it to soak it might even take off the finish. That's why I always flush the airbrush out with distilled water. I use distilled water as I live in an area with very hard water and don't want calcium buildup.

I doubt very much it would affect the seals, teflon is a pretty tough substance and the o-ring shouldn't come into play.

I would say this "source" is a good example of "a little knowledge is a dangerous thing". 

If your airbrush has a chrome plated plastic body, it might be of concern. But metal bodied airbrushes are nickel plated and are very durable. Some of my airbrushes are twenty plus years old and have had no ill effects using Windex. They have however have had some from other solvent based cleaners. Usually the o-rings begin to dissolve.

IMPORTANT: Replace your airbrushes O-Rings (if equipped) with OEM parts. Some aftermarket O-Rings are not solvent resistant. Be sure if you do get replacement O-Rings from an aftermarket source you test them before you put them into your brush. Soak them in the chemicals you would normally use to clean your airbrush. It is easier to find that they are inferior before you find out you wasted both money and time trying to remove them once inside the brush.

Many of us look to save a buck or two when and where we can. Many of the O-Rings found in plumbing supplies will not be solvent tolerant. Automotive grade ones usually are...but test them first.