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stripping paint off of a model

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  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Saturday, January 5, 2008 2:54 PM
She likely won't, but you only have to do a test, shouldn't take more than a couple of minutes time. Just do it at a time when she's out of the house. I'll keep our secret! Wink [;)]

So long folks!

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: ON canada
Posted by flaver on Saturday, January 5, 2008 2:45 PM
I'll give it a try next time i spray, not sure if the wife will want me spraying without the fan on lol
  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Friday, January 4, 2008 9:11 AM

Well, your pressure is about right. You getting in nice and close to the model? The fan "might" be part of the problem. Whatever it is, the paint is drying too fast and hitting the kit already hard.

Just as an experiment, try spraying without the fan running and see if it makes a difference. Suck to have to replace the fan. (pun intended)

Tamiya thinner already includes a retarder, but you could always add a bit more. They're available at places like Michaels or Hobby Lobby. 

So long folks!

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: ON canada
Posted by flaver on Friday, January 4, 2008 5:44 AM

I use Tamiya paint thinner, and thin it the same t milk consistancy.

With my badger brush, siphon I use 15 - 20psi, and about 10-15 psi with my iwata gravity fed.

I really can't figure out why it does this, I have tried various other thinners and pressures.

unless my pressure guage is off, but like i said I have no problem with MM.

You think my spray booth could be the problem? Something to do with the fan? I am not 100% sure of the cfm it sucks at but it is a $20 bathroom exhaust fan about 12- 15" from the model. 

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Thursday, January 3, 2008 12:03 PM
What are you thinning the Tamiya flat with? I only use Tamiya, and thin to 2% milk consistancy with their thinner, use a fairly low pressure (12-15psi for gravity fed, 15-20psi for siphon fed) and spray no more than 2" away and don't have that problem.

So long folks!

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: ON canada
Posted by flaver on Thursday, January 3, 2008 11:08 AM

MM Acryl is some tough stuff to get off when dry thats for sure.

 

I don't know there is something weird aout Tamiya paint like it's waxxy or something. Only when I'm spraying with Tamiya flats do I get this problem where it dries before it hits the model and I get that stucco effect. I thin it down and use low pressure,  but it dries before it hits the model. 

 

with MM Acryl, i don't need to thin it down I use 20psi and always get a consistant finish.

strange how somethings work for one and not for others.

But I can say since I started using Future for gloss coating it has made my life so much easier. 

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Tuesday, January 1, 2008 10:18 PM
No, I mean Acryl. I know they are water wash up when fresh, but if you hack up paint jobs as often as I do you learn to appreciate Tamiya's easy removal!

So long folks!

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: ON canada
Posted by flaver on Tuesday, January 1, 2008 10:06 PM

MM acryl is water clean up, it just seems more durable, is Tamiya an actual acrylic paint?

 you might be thinking of MM enamel paints which I only use for hand painting finer details. I really don't like spraing with enamels, though I know lots of people that do.

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Tuesday, January 1, 2008 9:12 PM

Windex is 85% Isopropyl Alcohol, 3% Ammonia and colored water, so there you go.

Funny, I go the other way and prefer Tamiya to MM Acryl. I actually LIKE being able to swish, swish, swish, wash it up, rinse it out and all ready for paint again, without resorting to nasty solvents and Q-tips. It's a funny old world, ain't it? Wink [;)]

So long folks!

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: ON canada
Posted by flaver on Tuesday, January 1, 2008 8:32 PM

Thanks!

 

It's done now, I would have tried the windex aproach but I did'nt see your post until it was already done:)

I used 99% rubbing alcohol, funny thing, it got rid of the future and the tamiya coat, but it did'nt get rid of the Model Master Acryl paint, that i had to use nail polish remover and a q-tip.

This just reinforces my opinion that Model Master Acryl is a more durable paint than Tamiya.

I have been reluctant with Tamiya paints for a long while now, this last screw up killed it, no more for me I will stick with Model MAster paints.

 

Cheers! 

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Left forever
Posted by Bgrigg on Tuesday, January 1, 2008 8:02 PM

Windex with ammonia. Dunk or spray it on and most will wash right off. Use an old toothbrush (not your wife's!) to get corners and resistant patches off.

I keep a gallon jug of all the Windex I've cleaned my airbrush with. It's black and opaque, but still washes paint off REAL good. 

So long folks!

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: South Central Wisconsin
Posted by Daywalker on Tuesday, January 1, 2008 6:46 PM
After my bad luck last year, I ended up having to strip acrylic paint from three different kits.  I have had success with both Easy Off oven cleaner, though this can attack the glue joints; and also 91% isopropyl alcohol.  I f you go the alcohol route, be careful: if you use too much, it will soften the plastic.

Frank 

 

  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: ON canada
stripping paint off of a model
Posted by flaver on Tuesday, January 1, 2008 6:24 PM

I screwed up, and I have to strip acrylic paint from a model, it also has a coat of future on it,

 

what can I use? Is there a way to let it rest in some solvent then wash it off, or should I use something like nail polish remover and a qtip?

 

thanks 

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