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Oils for weathering what colors do you use?

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Oils for weathering what colors do you use?
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, November 11, 2003 11:58 AM
I bought a Paynes Gray and Burnt Umber. The brand is Newton.
What else should I get for A/C and tanks?
I tried a drybrush which worked really nice but what about the crevices? Used to do it with thinned paint but what about the oils? Although they are oily they are like toothpaste consistency.
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Broken Arrow, Oklahoma
Posted by maddafinga on Tuesday, November 11, 2003 1:29 PM
You still have to thin them, just use turpentine or something similar. Make sure to put a good coat of Future or something down first. I'm really new to the artist's oil wash, but I've used acrylic for a while, and the basic premise is the same. I've also done a good deal of actual oil painting, and so have experience with these types of paints.
Madda Trifles make perfection, but perfection is no trifle. -- Leonardo Da Vinci Tact is for those who lack the wit for sarcasm.--maddafinga
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, November 12, 2003 1:59 PM i have to sort out what turpentine is....(the greek word for it..)
sometimes it is hard to ask for tools and things you seen abroad with a foreign
  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Iowa
Posted by AllScalesModeler on Wednesday, November 12, 2003 2:55 PM
I have used oils for weathering years ago in model railroading. The colors listed below would be more applicable to armor than aircraft simply because aircraft are not dragged through the muck as armor is.

The colors are: Burnt Umber, Raw Umber, Burnt Sienna, Raw Sienna, Titanium White and Lamp Black. Artist supply stores generally sell an odorless turpentine for oils. Don't get the regular cheap turpentine because the smell lasts forever after the paint has dried. I have also used mineral spirits.

I generally just made washes to represent dirt and grime, or faded base coats, or highlights and shadows. However, my models were painted with Floquil or Scalecoat paints which are lacquers. For acrylics, I feel that Madda's suggestion of Futuring the model beforehand is a wise one.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: United Kingdom / Belgium
Posted by djmodels1999 on Wednesday, November 12, 2003 3:50 PM
The problems may occur if you use oils, as washes or as drybrushing medium, over enamels as they are also oil-based and if not properly dried (or sealed with Future for instance), you may find the thinner of the wash attacking the underlaying paint, while the drybrushing may 'scrape' some paint off too. With acrylics, you should not have any problems using oils.

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