Oils for weathering what colors do you use?

You still have to thin them, just use turpentine or something similar. Make sure to put a good coat of Future or something down first. I'm really new to the artist's oil wash, but I've used acrylic for a while, and the basic premise is the same. I've also done a good deal of actual oil painting, and so have experience with these types of paints.

thanks...now i have to sort out what turpentine is....(the greek word for it..)
sometimes it is hard to ask for tools and things you seen abroad with a foreign name...lol.

I have used oils for weathering years ago in model railroading. The colors listed below would be more applicable to armor than aircraft simply because aircraft are not dragged through the muck as armor is.

The colors are: Burnt Umber, Raw Umber, Burnt Sienna, Raw Sienna, Titanium White and Lamp Black. Artist supply stores generally sell an odorless turpentine for oils. Don't get the regular cheap turpentine because the smell lasts forever after the paint has dried. I have also used mineral spirits.

I generally just made washes to represent dirt and grime, or faded base coats, or highlights and shadows. However, my models were painted with Floquil or Scalecoat paints which are lacquers. For acrylics, I feel that Madda's suggestion of Futuring the model beforehand is a wise one.

Regards
/h

The problems may occur if you use oils, as washes or as drybrushing medium, over enamels as they are also oil-based and if not properly dried (or sealed with Future for instance), you may find the thinner of the wash attacking the underlaying paint, while the drybrushing may 'scrape' some paint off too. With acrylics, you should not have any problems using oils.