Crystal Kote

I used to use Dullcoat or Glosscoat, depending on the finish I wanted.  But these both seem to have a strong "shrinking" action that makes the decals curl a lot.  They are hard to apply on strongly convex surfaces.  A couple of times now I have used clear Polyurethane, and it seems to work well with decals and less curling.

Thanks for the reply ACESES5,

My poison is WWII aircraft so the matt finish is spot on. I guess I will have to be careful to cut right next to the decal to minimise silvering.

Cheers - Leo P

Zapme: I have used Crystal Coat over decals have had no probluems you will get a dull semi gloss finish simalar to what an egg shell looks like, you don't need a heavy coat one or two passes should be good. I thin my Crystal Coat about 80% crystal coat 10% thinner.              aceses5              in the works Roden Pfalz D.III 1/32 scale

hkshooter,

The reason is for the price as a large can, far out weighs the cost of the hobby brands, and you get about 3-4 times the amount more. I want it mainly to seal old decals, but now you've got me thinking, I could also use it as a final matt covering. And you are right, test and more test. I just don't want to buy it and then fine out it is useless.

cheers - Leo

I've never used it but.....

I'd test it on something before spraying it on your project. Maybe an old guiney pig model or something to make sure it won't eat the decals.
If it seems ok then the thicknesss of coating will be up to you. A dusting might be ok but a wet coat may eat the decals. Just test some more.
I looked around a bit and it seems as if the stuff is potent smelling so ventilate good. Most references to the product indicate it's for "interior use only" so that tells me it's not water proof.
If you havent bought a can yet and arent famliar with it why not purchase something you've used before? Just sayin.