Future floor polish

sub revolution

Yes, no, and yes. It can be airbrushed, or handbrushed. It does not need to be diluted at all, and once it's dry, you can do anything you want on top of it. One of the important things is giving it enough time to fully dry (two days is the generally accepted time.)

That is presuming you have an old bottle.  The " same  formula new name"  is not that same and does not cure rock hard like the old stuff.  I don't care if the say the formula hasn't changed....it has....and its probably something minute in its chemical composition which was enough to affect it's effectiveness in model building.  I've been experimenting with other gloss coats and have temporarily went back to the old Testors lacquer gloss coat until I find something better.    

Good Luck,

Joe

I get better results using a soft med sized brush than spraying it. I use it full strength and cover the entire model. I usually brush on 3-4 coats which come out smooth as glass with no brush strokes. I wait about 15 minutes drying time between coats. After applying the Future, make certain you wait at least 2 days for it to cure before using any decal solution, believe me![:'(  A while back I ruined a beautiful paint job cause I applied decal solution to a wing coated with Future 8 hours before. The solution created a white haze around the decals. I had to repair the area and repaint. After you apply the decals and they are dry, the next day apply another coat of Future to even out everything. Next day spray clear flat acrylic. I find that MM and Tamiya leave a dead flat finish. Now you can use enamels or oils for weathering since the clear acrylic acts as a barrier.

Yes, no, and yes. It can be airbrushed, or handbrushed. It does not need to be diluted at all, and once it's dry, you can do anything you want on top of it. One of the important things is giving it enough time to fully dry (two days is the generally accepted time.)

do you spray the future thru your air brush like a clear coat ? does it have to be diluted ? and do you just spray the next dull coat over it ?

Yeah, exactly. once you cover a portion of a flat surface with future, it starts acting differently than the surrounding  area and that difference is very hard to equalize again. That's why you should paint the chopper GLOSSY OD first, then add decals, overcoat them, and then add a matt clear coat and weathering. In your situatio I'd suggest giving the whole model one or two coats of a future based thin black wash (that will look sharp!), then put the decals on, overcoat wit future, one more thin wash to blend them in and then dust with matt coat, plus some dry brushing. Hope it helps, have a nice day

Paweł

I suggest coating the entire flat model with Future or clear coat, then appying decals, and finally coating the entire model with whatever clear coat you want, flat, semi-gloss, or gloss.  I have found that if you apply the Future in a patchwork manner, only where the decals will go, you will still be able to see it, blotchy-looking,  after the final coat.  Looks bad!

Scratchbuilder725

decals stick best to smooth glossy surfaces

That is the key.

Gloss coat, apply decals, and then a sealer coat (gloss, semi-gloss, or flat as appropriate) to protect the decals.

Future is just an acrylic gloss coat some of us use.  If you mainly paint with enamels, an acrylic sealing coat is a way to protect the enamel paint when weathering with enamels or oils.

Paul

Also generally a good idea to give the entire model a coat for protection from dust, spills, time, etc.

decals stick best to smooth glossy surfaces, typically future is applied either to the entire model or in spots let the decals fully dry. Set in place with setting solution (if needed) and let the decal dry (18-36 hours) then seal either with a flat overcoat or if glossy is desired more future