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Dry transfer decal questions

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  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Saturday, September 1, 2012 9:40 AM

Rigidrider

What Don said, Plus I have used on armor and they look great, make yourself a few sizes of burnishing tools (or buy them). I take old retractable pens, remove the spent cartridge, fit and cut various sizes of sprue and insert into the opening where the writing tip is when being used, then mix and pour some quick set epoxy into the barrel and allow to set,screw pen body back together and you have a relitivly inexpensive burnishing tool. I cut at an angle so as to be able to "coax" transfer into recesses as needed.

I used to make tools very similar t Rigidrider, but as I started keeping toothpicks in a dispenser on my benchtop I found I could use toothpicks with simple preparation.  I use the double- ended toothpicks, and cut the ends back to make them a little less sharp (different amounts on each end to have two sized ends). I gently rounded and smoothed the cut edges with fine sandpaper.  Takes only a few seconds to prepare the toothpick.  And they work as well as the more complicated ones I used to make.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: Georgia
Posted by Rigidrider on Friday, August 31, 2012 8:37 PM

What Don said, Plus I have used on armor and they look great, make yourself a few sizes of burnishing tools (or buy them). I take old retractable pens, remove the spent cartridge, fit and cut various sizes of sprue and insert into the opening where the writing tip is when being used, then mix and pour some quick set epoxy into the barrel and allow to set,screw pen body back together and you have a relitivly inexpensive burnishing tool. I cut at an angle so as to be able to "coax" transfer into recesses as needed.

When done clear coat as desired to protect them. Good Luck!

When Life Hands You A Bucket Of Lemons...

Make Lemonade!

Then Sell It Back At $2 Bucks A Glass...

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Thursday, August 30, 2012 9:22 AM

1.  They go down better on a flat surface than decals do, but they adhere better to a glossy finish.  Glossy finish is desireable, but not as much so as for decals.

2. Kind of. they may be into some depressions, hard in other cases- depends a lot.

3. Never used them on armor, but on other things I have used them on they look VERY realistic.

4.  Yes

5.  There is a technique you need to learn.  Once you learn it they are fairly easy, but I'd say they are still a bit harder than decals.  

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Adelaide, Australia
Dry transfer decal questions
Posted by zapme on Thursday, August 30, 2012 4:20 AM

Hi all,

I'm looking at some Archer dry tranfer decals for 1/35 Jagdpanzer as the kit ones are buggered. Has anyone used them, and if so can you answer the following questions

  1. do they need to be transfered to a gloss base like the conventional decals
  2. will they conform to the recessed panel lines
  3. do they look realistic
  4. are they as thin as standard decals
  5. are they easy to use

Thanks in advance

Leo

 

My Blog - leoslatestbuilds.blogspot.com

On the workbench: 1/72 Airfix De Havilland DH88 Comet , 1/35 Trumpeter M1A1, 1/35 Tamiya Tyrannosaurus Rex, 1/8 (?) vinyl C3PO brand unknown

 

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