Aaron Skinner's Use of Future in Decaling

It works like a charm.  I recently used it over a REALLY rough surface (bomb casing for a model airplane that I added baking soda to for texture).  I put down the future and then applied the decal while the future was still wet.  After it dried I put a little more on and zero silvering.  If there was ever a candidate for silvering, it was this piece of ordnance.  However, I did find that the area with future looked way different from the rest.  I tried putting clear flat over it and it still looked different.  I finally went back and sprayed the whole thing with future and it looks normal now.  Haven't gotten to the flat coat yet.

On a different bomb, I had a decal move a bit on me because I had a little too much future, so be careful with it.  I would use a minimal amount of future to put the decal on and a toothpick or blunt instrument to push it down gently.

Groot

I'll try the method on a model that I've been painting.  No need to apply Micro Set and/or Micro Sol because Future serves as an adhesive for decals.

i tried thisonce with tamiyas clear. i had a decal lift and crack, i cutthe decal, put the clear under it settled it down and sealed it with the clear. good as new.

It works fine on flat surfaces. I have used this method several times on thick decals to get rid of the "step" they create from the film thickness. Several coats are brushed feathering away from the edges. After a day or so I lightly sand over the decal just a bit till it's dull then spray the clear flat and the decal looks as if it was painted on. However, the wet Future application method will not work if the decal needs to snuggle down on panel lines or louvered areas which will need Solvaset to melt the decal down.

Here's a close-up of my 1/25 Academy Panther turret numbers which the decal film was very thick. I brushed on some Future and while still wet I floated the numbers on and used the above method:

Wondering if you use future with the decals on top of a dried surface?  I am having trouble getting the decals to settle into the fine panel lines of a plane even with MicroSol and Solvaset.  

I tried putting a decal over a wet future coat and the decal was "stuck" almost immediately.  It was almost impossible to move it as opposed to application over a dry surface.  Am I doing something incorrectly?  thanks.

John

Keep more information coming.  Decaling is the part of this hobby that I'm least comfortable with.  I could just try Skinner's method on a Hetzer that I recently painted, but I lack courage to go for it without more information.  

John

You have to work fast cause the Future will lock down the decal pronto. Brush on a wet coat and immediately float the decal in and position it. Wait a couple of minutes then brush on another coat.

So what do you do with all the excess future runs and globs around the decal. I my experience, if you brush future on a localized spot, it will stand out like pink polka dots unless you brush it on the whole model. You must have to wipe away the excess right away with windex?? Because normal decal solutions just dry up and evaporate.

Nathan

look at my panther decals, they look as if they were painted on. The trick is not to put globs or excess Future but to brush and feather out which applies when dealing with thick decals only. A normal thin film decal will need only one application of Future and while wet place the decal on and followed by another coat of Future. Remember that Future levels out.

Ok. Thanks PJ. I'm keeping notes here!

Nathan T

I my experience, if you brush future on a localized spot, it will stand out like pink polka dots unless you brush it on the whole model.

IME, every clear varnish darkens the color of a base coat. Once I apply a matte varnish, Future spots disappear.

Also, when I use Future only locally before decaling, I apply it with a cosmetic sponge brush because I tend to apply too much with a paint brush.

Anyway, I'm not sure if I can work decals before Future starts to cure. IME, Future dries fast. I'll have to try on a junk model.

Great info, thanks.  I too will try this on an old kit that is not fit for display:)  I may have used a little to much future as the base as it seemed to dry before I got the decal on...

I usually airbrush it on, and when I tried to leave a real heavy coat it did pool a bit and then I had to "mop" those areas so to Nathans point it could be an issue.  Hopefully the feathering PJ talks about will do it.

Since we're on decaling here can anyone help me understand what the decal WE is on the luftwaffe aircraft?  I can't seem to find a definition for it.  It is under the canopy on the instructions and is the capital letters W and then E.  

thanks.

John

"So what do you do with all the excess future runs and globs around the decal. I my experience, if you brush future on a localized spot, it will stand out like pink polka dots unless you brush it on the whole model. You must have to wipe away the excess right away with windex?? Because normal decal solutions just dry up and evaporate."

Nathan,

 I had the same experience and my flat coat didn't make it go away.  I resorted to spraying the entire object with future and it disappeared, then flat over the whole thing.

PilotJohn,

 I've had issues wit decals not settling into cracks.  I generally try to start with a more mild solution (microsol) and if that doesn't work I'll try the stronger one (Solvaset).  If solvaset doesn't do it, I don't know what will.  I've used microsol on a decal and had to go back with solvaset later with no issues, so the two won't react with each other.  Good luck!

Groot

Pilot John, I've also had models where I used an xacto knife to cut a slit in a decal along the panel line and then hit the edges of the decal to make it settle better and display the panel line more prominently. 

Groot

Chrisk-k

Keep more information coming.  Decaling is the part of this hobby that I'm least comfortable with.  I could just try Skinner's method on a Hetzer that I recently painted, but I lack courage to go for it without more information.  

One solution to this problem is testing.  Keep any decals you don't use from a kit to have a supply for test applications.  Pick up some sheet styrene at the hobby shop. Paint a piece of scrap or the stock stuff with the paint you will be using, and try a new technique with the spare decal and that scrap piece.  Saves risking a good model.

That's right. I don't think I threw away unused decals. I don't know where they are, though.

As a matter of coincidence, I'm working on a commission where the client wants the kit markings used.  Decals are about 16 years old and looked ok on the sheet being a little on the thick side. As I started to put them on, they curled up at the edges, even after multiple uses of Solvaset which is VERY strong stuff and has conquered every decal application problem in the past except for this one!

Then I went with the Future trick.  For the two decals that I applied with Solvaset, I just brushed a couple of Future coats on and the edges laid down nice and flat. For the rest of the decals I'm doing a light brushing of Future to the application area followed by the decal then another Future coat for excellent adhesion results.

I personally airbrush it, but I will admit I've never tried brushing, just dabbing spots with a Q-tip.  I'm still trying to find the perfect way to airbrush it though, I tend to get some runs that I have found sanding down works pretty well on.

I also saw a suggestion to use the Alcad clear gloss and that it works really well.  So that's on the bench to try for the next build!

Groot

RobGroot4

I personally airbrush it, but I will admit I've never tried brushing, just dabbing spots with a Q-tip.  I'm still trying to find the perfect way to airbrush it though, I tend to get some runs that I have found sanding down works pretty well on.

I also saw a suggestion to use the Alcad clear gloss and that it works really well.  So that's on the bench to try for the next build!

Groot

IMO I would never use a q tip cause of possible fuzz left by the cotton.. I bought a bottle of the water based Alclad a couple of weeks back to try out which I read sprays like glass and you can put down the decals after 30 minutes. I would wait maybe an hour or so just to play it safe. With Future you have to wait at least a day or so.

I didn't actually touch the Q-tip to the piece as I only needed a little spot, so it worked just fine.  I would never try to "paint" with a Q-tip though.

I would love to hear how the alclad works for you (and what pressure, weight you spray it with)!  I would love to be able to decal right away.  I generally wait about 2 days after spraying future due to Murphy's Law!

Groot

Groot

The Alclad II Aqua Gloss Clear bottle instructions say to spray it at 15-20 psi in light coats and not to spray heavy ones. Do not thin or shake and can be used as a clear primer and sealer for hi shine Alclad paints. Also good for dipping clear parts which looks like thin milk.  

One of the neat things about Future is that it is very self-leveling.  So I usually just brush it on.

You'll like the Alclad Aqua Gloss. I use it most of the time. It does dry quicker than future. Beware of tip dry in the airbrush. If you don't clean the tip often enough, a flake of dried paint can end up on your work! I does take at least half a day to dry though for me. It airbrushes way better than future ever will, and doesn't orange peel or go on pebbly.

Great to hear Nathan. Thinking about using the Aqua Gloss as a gloss coat when I paint a 1/16  Chevy 55 Nomad I have. Orange peel and pebble finish is what I get when AB Future.

I AB future straight from the bottle at about 1 bar and 6"  or so from the model.  Keep moving the brush for light coats and never an orange peel.   My .02.

John

I apply Future to the destinations of decals with a cosmetic sponge brush.  After that, Future is sprayed to the entire model. .

I have tried something different and so far I really like the results.  I mixed the future in some water at about a 50/50 mix.  I then brushed it on the model just like I would decal set.  It covered well with the brush and didn't run or pool at all.  When I placed the decal on it I had much the same effect without the future as the decal would slide very easily.  I then dabbed it dry with a swab and the effect was much better than without using any future.  I did future coat the model all over before to get a glossy surface.

I will wait until after I apply the dull coat to see the final effect, but this may be a good solution to using 100% future as a setting solution.

John

I tried Skinner's method today.  It worked like a charm.