Aaron Skinner's Use of Future in Decaling

I tried Skinner's method, with mixed results. On the wings, where I brushed it on (only where decals were to be placed) and let it dry, and THEN placed the decals, and re-coated, they turned out GREAT. Where I brushed on the future, put on the decals while still wet, and re-coated over the top, I had mixed results, some air-bubbles and decals not fully applied or "stuck" down in all places.

Just brushing the future on where the decals go, brushing future over the top, and then dullcoating over the decals DOES NOT kill the gloss. If you use future over or under your decals only where the decals go, IMO you MUST re-coat the entire model with future after applying decals (better yet, before) otherwise the decal areas or any other spot where future was applied sticks out like purple polka-dots, as some noted above. Just my (first) experience working with future for decals...

Rudy

Have any of you heard of "Elmers clear school glue" ? or Humbrol "Clear fix" ?  As I use it when applying any decals, over all kinds of paint finishes, as it is water washable, non aggressive, and dries perfectly and is even better than the adhesive normally used by  all manufacturers when printing is done.

If any one has seen my 1/32 scale Horton 229 done with wood grain decals, you will be pleased to know I used the clear glue with each and every piece on it, in conjunction with Microscale Sol.

Once the decal is on and fixed in place, after drying, simply wipe all surfaces with a damp cloth to remove any excess that may be there.

Try it, you will love it.:-)

Nathan T

So what do you do with all the excess future runs and globs around the decal. I my experience, if you brush future on a localized spot, it will stand out like pink polka dots unless you brush it on the whole model. You must have to wipe away the excess right away with windex?? Because normal decal solutions just dry up and evaporate.

I have not had success applying future to just areas on a flat model. The color shift makes it pretty obvious.

I tried Skinner's method today.  It worked like a charm.  

I have tried something different and so far I really like the results.  I mixed the future in some water at about a 50/50 mix.  I then brushed it on the model just like I would decal set.  It covered well with the brush and didn't run or pool at all.  When I placed the decal on it I had much the same effect without the future as the decal would slide very easily.  I then dabbed it dry with a swab and the effect was much better than without using any future.  I did future coat the model all over before to get a glossy surface.

I will wait until after I apply the dull coat to see the final effect, but this may be a good solution to using 100% future as a setting solution.

John

I apply Future to the destinations of decals with a cosmetic sponge brush.  After that, Future is sprayed to the entire model. .

I AB future straight from the bottle at about 1 bar and 6"  or so from the model.  Keep moving the brush for light coats and never an orange peel.   My .02.

John

Great to hear Nathan. Thinking about using the Aqua Gloss as a gloss coat when I paint a 1/16  Chevy 55 Nomad I have. Orange peel and pebble finish is what I get when AB Future.

You'll like the Alclad Aqua Gloss. I use it most of the time. It does dry quicker than future. Beware of tip dry in the airbrush. If you don't clean the tip often enough, a flake of dried paint can end up on your work! I does take at least half a day to dry though for me. It airbrushes way better than future ever will, and doesn't orange peel or go on pebbly.

One of the neat things about Future is that it is very self-leveling.  So I usually just brush it on.

Groot

The Alclad II Aqua Gloss Clear bottle instructions say to spray it at 15-20 psi in light coats and not to spray heavy ones. Do not thin or shake and can be used as a clear primer and sealer for hi shine Alclad paints. Also good for dipping clear parts which looks like thin milk.  

I didn't actually touch the Q-tip to the piece as I only needed a little spot, so it worked just fine.  I would never try to "paint" with a Q-tip though.

I would love to hear how the alclad works for you (and what pressure, weight you spray it with)!  I would love to be able to decal right away.  I generally wait about 2 days after spraying future due to Murphy's Law!

Groot

RobGroot4

I personally airbrush it, but I will admit I've never tried brushing, just dabbing spots with a Q-tip.  I'm still trying to find the perfect way to airbrush it though, I tend to get some runs that I have found sanding down works pretty well on.

I also saw a suggestion to use the Alcad clear gloss and that it works really well.  So that's on the bench to try for the next build!

Groot

IMO I would never use a q tip cause of possible fuzz left by the cotton.. I bought a bottle of the water based Alclad a couple of weeks back to try out which I read sprays like glass and you can put down the decals after 30 minutes. I would wait maybe an hour or so just to play it safe. With Future you have to wait at least a day or so.

I personally airbrush it, but I will admit I've never tried brushing, just dabbing spots with a Q-tip.  I'm still trying to find the perfect way to airbrush it though, I tend to get some runs that I have found sanding down works pretty well on.

I also saw a suggestion to use the Alcad clear gloss and that it works really well.  So that's on the bench to try for the next build!

Groot

As a matter of coincidence, I'm working on a commission where the client wants the kit markings used.  Decals are about 16 years old and looked ok on the sheet being a little on the thick side. As I started to put them on, they curled up at the edges, even after multiple uses of Solvaset which is VERY strong stuff and has conquered every decal application problem in the past except for this one!

Then I went with the Future trick.  For the two decals that I applied with Solvaset, I just brushed a couple of Future coats on and the edges laid down nice and flat. For the rest of the decals I'm doing a light brushing of Future to the application area followed by the decal then another Future coat for excellent adhesion results.

That's right. I don't think I threw away unused decals. I don't know where they are, though.

Chrisk-k

Keep more information coming.  Decaling is the part of this hobby that I'm least comfortable with.  I could just try Skinner's method on a Hetzer that I recently painted, but I lack courage to go for it without more information.  

One solution to this problem is testing.  Keep any decals you don't use from a kit to have a supply for test applications.  Pick up some sheet styrene at the hobby shop. Paint a piece of scrap or the stock stuff with the paint you will be using, and try a new technique with the spare decal and that scrap piece.  Saves risking a good model.

Pilot John, I've also had models where I used an xacto knife to cut a slit in a decal along the panel line and then hit the edges of the decal to make it settle better and display the panel line more prominently. 

Groot

"So what do you do with all the excess future runs and globs around the decal. I my experience, if you brush future on a localized spot, it will stand out like pink polka dots unless you brush it on the whole model. You must have to wipe away the excess right away with windex?? Because normal decal solutions just dry up and evaporate."

Nathan,

 I had the same experience and my flat coat didn't make it go away.  I resorted to spraying the entire object with future and it disappeared, then flat over the whole thing.

PilotJohn,

 I've had issues wit decals not settling into cracks.  I generally try to start with a more mild solution (microsol) and if that doesn't work I'll try the stronger one (Solvaset).  If solvaset doesn't do it, I don't know what will.  I've used microsol on a decal and had to go back with solvaset later with no issues, so the two won't react with each other.  Good luck!

Groot

Great info, thanks.  I too will try this on an old kit that is not fit for display:)  I may have used a little to much future as the base as it seemed to dry before I got the decal on...

I usually airbrush it on, and when I tried to leave a real heavy coat it did pool a bit and then I had to "mop" those areas so to Nathans point it could be an issue.  Hopefully the feathering PJ talks about will do it.

Since we're on decaling here can anyone help me understand what the decal WE is on the luftwaffe aircraft?  I can't seem to find a definition for it.  It is under the canopy on the instructions and is the capital letters W and then E.  

thanks.

John

Nathan T

I my experience, if you brush future on a localized spot, it will stand out like pink polka dots unless you brush it on the whole model.

IME, every clear varnish darkens the color of a base coat. Once I apply a matte varnish, Future spots disappear.

Also, when I use Future only locally before decaling, I apply it with a cosmetic sponge brush because I tend to apply too much with a paint brush.

Anyway, I'm not sure if I can work decals before Future starts to cure. IME, Future dries fast. I'll have to try on a junk model.

Ok. Thanks PJ. I'm keeping notes here!

Nathan

look at my panther decals, they look as if they were painted on. The trick is not to put globs or excess Future but to brush and feather out which applies when dealing with thick decals only. A normal thin film decal will need only one application of Future and while wet place the decal on and followed by another coat of Future. Remember that Future levels out.

So what do you do with all the excess future runs and globs around the decal. I my experience, if you brush future on a localized spot, it will stand out like pink polka dots unless you brush it on the whole model. You must have to wipe away the excess right away with windex?? Because normal decal solutions just dry up and evaporate.