Making your own decals

Hi Richard,

Can't comment on the Testor's system, I use the Micro-Mark decal paper and Future Floor wax to seal them in.

With regards to scaling, I simply fiddle with it until I have the right size I like, I'll cut and copy several sizes of the artwork into a single JPG file, then print them on regular paper first...then I match 'em up to the model and see how they scale. Then I erase the various sizes, copy and paste the size I want, then run the decal paper through the printer.

Jeff

27-02-04
Hey Jeff:
What is the Micro-Mark Decal system? I have been thinking of printing some custom decals for future builds, but have been a bit wary regards to quality etc....
Any advice?
Liam

It's decal paper made especially for ink-jet printers. It has a flat textured surface, to allow the inks to adhere...you simply spray with a clear coat after they're printed and cut the decals out, and apply.

www.micro-mark.com

Click on decalling, painting and weathering, it'll give you the info. They're a great company to deal with...

Jeff

What about white can you print white on a typicle ink jet. I have the Epson 800, it is around four years old at this point.

Thanks.

Jim,
You can't print white because there is no white ink in most printers (ALPS are an exception). You have to print on a white decal sheet (micro mark makes those too). Of course, you then have to cut out the decal right where you want the image or you have excess white. I know guys who will print the decal on clear leaving a clear space where the white goes and then either paint the appropriate spot on the model before applying the decal or cut an appropriate size from a sheet of white decal paper and apply it first.
As for the Testors decal set. A guy on a different thread advised me that it wasn't very effective but I have not tried it myself.

I've been playing with the Testors set for a week now and am pretty impressed.

Did you pay for the upgrade Swanny?

This is a subject that has fascinated me (almost to the point of actually trying it!). If I print my design with an inkjet printer, and seal them with a clear acrylic spray before I soak in water and apply , is the acrylic spray sufficient to protect the water-based inkjet ink? And, will they work with "decal set" the way regular decals do?

Gott try me some inkjet-printed decals. All I've done to date is hand-painted stuff and it's a PITA!

Fun, tho...


Fade to Black...

QUOTE: Originally posted by kik36 Did you pay for the upgrade Swanny?

No, just played with defeating the programs ability to stop me from importing stuff, once that was done ....

I checked out the Micro Mark web site and found the decal paper. Can the white laser paper be used effectively in an ink jet printer?

Richard

I don't think so Richard...I think they are pretty specific. Another option is Bare Metal Foil decal paper-- I have used it with much success-- and they have clear and white for ink-jet and for laser printers as well....

Hello, I am new to this forum but have years of experience in model building as a hobby and as a professionalmodel maker. I've used the micro mart decal paper to make decals for many prototype models at work. Not being able to print white is a problem and definatly limits what you can do. I have found that by spraying the paper with krylon matte finish and sealing with krylon crystal clear I get better results. To the original question, I have never tried the testors system. To scale a decal is simple. Just measure the original and measure your copy. Now all you have to do is divide the two and this will give you a ratio to scale your decal by. This way you don't have to guess. Just print a test sheet first.
John

For you guys that have the Testors deal I have two questions. First, is it possible to get that program to print out legible text in 1/48 scale? I want to put my name on the canopy rails of my Monogram Hornet, so it needs to be small but at the same time readable. Also, is there a way to send other images (squadron emblems, markings, etc. not included in the program) to that screen? I got it for around 6 bucks at Hobby Lobby but haven't had much time to play with it.

QUOTE: Originally posted by RSaddlemire I checked out the Micro Mark web site and found the decal paper. Can the white laser paper be used effectively in an ink jet printer? Richard

No, the ink beads up and runs off and gunks up your printer. Micro-Mark sells inkjet-specific decal paper that works fine. You need to also buy their clear laquer sealer to keep the ink from dissolving in water.

QUOTE: Originally posted by ModelNerd This is a subject that has fascinated me (almost to the point of actually trying it!). If I print my design with an inkjet printer, and seal them with a clear acrylic spray before I soak in water and apply , is the acrylic spray sufficient to protect the water-based inkjet ink? And, will they work with "decal set" the way regular decals do?

I don't know about the acrylic, but Micro-Mark sells a clear laquer spray specifically made as a sealer for their inkjet decal paper.

I use Future, and as long as it has time to dry completely, I've never had problems with it. I would imagine Dull-Cote would work just as well.

J

Still more questions

1. jfrejo - can you use matte white on the decal paper prior to printing to get the white background

2. Swanny how do you import pictures I have been trying but can't

Thanks to all for the inputs

Richard

Richard,

Micro-Mark sells WHITE decal paper for inkjet printers...Worst case (and this is what I do) when I need a partial white packground, I'll simply use a scrap from a previous white sheet, cut the shape I need, lay it down on the model, then lay the clear decal over the top.

Jeff

I’ve had good luck making stencil decals. I don’t have any imaging software. So, I have to rely on the custom decal makers for that stuff.

I did not have good luck with inkjet decal paper. I tried a couple of brands and found the decal carrier film to be too thick and setting solutions melted the sealer and caused the ink to run.

I have an Epson Stylus Color 600 printer. I print the stencils using Epson’s glossy photo paper. I then go to a walk-in copy center (Kinko’s, etc.) and copy the printed stencils onto laser decal paper. The laser decal film is thinner and doesn’t require a sealer.

Hmmm...not a bad idea Jim...

Jeff

QUOTE: Originally posted by Swanny QUOTE: Originally posted by kik36 Did you pay for the upgrade Swanny? No, just played with defeating the programs ability to stop me from importing stuff, once that was done ....

OHHHH You gotta at least hint on how you pulled that one off!!!!

since i am more into 1/72 aircraft,my inkjet printer can only go as high as 300dpi! i prefer using dry transfers first, and then top it off with flat enamel!

http://www.geocities.com/whittakill/electra/electra1.jpg

Has anyone attempted to create their own decals using a system that involves printing with an ink jet printer on decal paper and then using a “decal bonder” to help the ink stay on the decal paper when soaking…How has the “decal bonder” reacted to decal setting solutions such as micro-set/sol? Is it even possible to use setting solutions if you make your own decals using this method?

I use a Minolta Majicolor color Laser printer and an Alps strictly for white. My editing PC program is Photoshop Elements. So far this set up has helped me produce award-winning custom models for my collection. Color laser printers are darn expensive, but man do they spit out excellent decals without the need to seal them after printing. The images are very opaque and vibrant.

Hey plasticmod992, I was thinking about a similar set up for myself. What printer model are you using? I was thinking about the 2300w but I really don't know laser printers.

I'd really like to know how Swanny was able to avoid paying for the upgrade. I bought the testors sytem for like 5 bucks and messed with it for about 5 mins before deciding it was no good.

I use a Minolta Magicolor 2350 laser printer. The lower Magicolor 2300w, the "W" is the give-away will work on Windows computers only and is the cheapest of the Magicolor series. And if I remember right the processor is your computer and not a separate printer processor. It has a basic 32MB of memory that is expandable. Its printing resolution is 1200 x 1600.

The next model of printer on the Magicolor line is, I think, called the 2300DL and it has a built-in processor. It will work on Windows or Mac. 32MB memory (expandable) and 2400 x 600 printing resolution.

The one I use, the 2350, works on Windows or Macs, has a faster processor, more memory to start with, 128MB, is networkable and has a printing resolution of 9600 x 600 (but I'll be darned if I know how to access the super resolution.) I think it does it automatically.

The magicolors have got great printing engines.

Magicolors brag that not only do they print different color halftones but THEY CAN VARY THE COLORS OF EACH HALFTONE DOT. If true then they are unique. The printed Magicolor photos are superb with soft color variations in the prints and sharp contrasts. It makes very sharp decals too. I've been able to make readable 4 point type and, believe me, that is smaller than you can see.

Another nice plus to the Magicolor is the fuser is built into the colors so an extra cartridge is saved.

The printer is not large but still larger than an inkjet printer. I'd say is it the size of two bread boxes stacked.

One thing you have to watch out for is to make sure the color laser printer you consider will take thicker paper stock like decal paper. Magicolors will take thick stock up to 90 lb. index stock so decal paper is no problem.

Phil you said that most ink jets wont print white. I have an Epson 800. It is now several years old, but it tells me what colors I can't print by showing a triangle if it can't print that color. NO such triangle shows up when I select white. What do you think? Is it worth the try or not? Do I need to delete the white background and put a layer underneath with nothing on it?